KitchenAid Refrigerator Error Codes

Common Symptoms

• Error code displayed on refrigerator control panel (E0, E1, E2, E3, E4, E5, E6, Er)
• Temperature indicator lights blinking or flashing
• Refrigerator beeping with a code shown on display
• Dispenser panel showing error letters or numbers
• Refrigerator not cooling while displaying an error

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   E0 — Refrigerator Thermistor Short Circuit

   Error E0 indicates the fresh food (refrigerator) compartment thermistor has shorted — its resistance has dropped to near zero, signaling an impossibly cold temperature. Most common cause: the thermistor wiring has been pinched by a drawer, or moisture has infiltrated the connector. Locate the thermistor (clipped to the back wall or ceiling of the fridge section) and inspect the wiring. If the connector is wet, dry it and clear the code. If the error returns, replace the thermistor. Part: WPW10316760 (fresh food thermistor). Fix is DIY-straightforward — thermistor replacement takes 10 minutes.

2. 2

   E1 — Refrigerator Thermistor Open Circuit

   Error E1 is the opposite of E0 — the fresh food thermistor circuit is open (resistance too high or infinite), signaling an impossibly warm temperature. The thermistor wire has broken or the connector has come loose. Inspect the thermistor wire from the sensor body to the control board harness. A broken wire or open connector reads OL on a multimeter. Replace the thermistor (WPW10316760) if the sensor itself is failed, or repair the wiring if the break is in the harness. This is a DIY repair.

3. 3

   E2 — Freezer Thermistor Fault

   Error E2 indicates a problem with the freezer temperature sensor — either open or shorted. The control board cannot accurately read freezer temperature, so it may default to a safe mode (running the compressor continuously) or stop cooling. The freezer thermistor is clipped to the evaporator coils or the freezer wall. Test resistance: at 0°F the sensor should read approximately 16,600 Ω; at room temperature (70°F) approximately 5,000–6,000 Ω. Out-of-spec resistance means replace the sensor (WPW10316760 covers freezer thermistor on most models; verify with your model number).

4. 4

   E3 — Defrost Heater Fault

   Error E3 means the control board has detected a defrost heater circuit failure. The defrost heater (WPW10225581) is either open (burned out) or the defrost thermostat (WPW10315739) has opened permanently. Access the evaporator by removing the freezer back panel. Test the heater: 15–30 Ω is normal; OL (open) means the heater has burned out. Also test the thermostat in series. Replace whichever component reads OL. After replacement, clear the E3 code and run two manual defrost cycles to verify the system is working. Heavy frost buildup on the evaporator when you open the panel confirms the defrost system has been failing for some time.

5. 5

   E4 — Evaporator Fan Fault

   Error E4 means the control board has detected that the evaporator fan (WPW10189703) is not operating correctly — it may be stalled, drawing excess current, or not running at all. Remove the freezer back panel and inspect the fan. Check for ice blocking the blades (defrost the unit if so). Spin the blades by hand — they should turn freely. If blades are clear but the motor doesn't run, or runs irregularly, test motor winding resistance (should read 100–400 Ω). Replace the fan motor if it's outside spec or doesn't run.

6. 6

   E5 — Condenser Fan Fault

   Error E5 indicates the condenser fan motor (WPW10197559) is not running or is drawing abnormal current. The condenser fan is at the back lower section of the refrigerator next to the compressor. Pull the unit away from the wall and remove the lower back panel to access it. Spin the blades by hand (power off) — they should turn freely. If the motor reads open on a multimeter (should be 100–300 Ω), it needs replacement. Also inspect for debris wrapping around the fan shaft — a common cause of fan motor failure in this location.

7. 7

   E6 — Defrost Limit Thermostat Fault

   Error E6 indicates the defrost limit thermostat (high-limit cutout) has tripped or failed. This thermostat is designed to cut off the defrost heater if temperatures get too high during the defrost cycle, preventing damage to the freezer lining. If it trips repeatedly, the defrost heater may be running too long (a control board issue) or the high-limit thermostat itself has failed in the open position. Test the thermostat for continuity when cold (should be closed). Replace the defrost thermostat assembly or high-limit thermostat as appropriate for your model.

8. 8

   Er — Cooling System / Communication Error

   Error 'Er' (or 'Err') on KitchenAid refrigerators typically indicates a communication error between the main control board and the dispenser/display board, or a cooling system fault depending on the model variant. On KRFC704 and KRMF706 models with the French door ice and water dispenser, Er most often means a board communication failure. Try a hard reset first: unplug for 5 minutes, plug back in. If Er returns and the refrigerator isn't cooling, this may require a control board replacement — consult a technician with the service manual for your specific model before replacing the control board, as it's the most expensive component.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1STEP 1 — ENTER DIAGNOSTIC MODE: On most KitchenAid refrigerators (KRFC704, KRMF706, KRFF507, KRSF505), enter diagnostic mode by pressing and holding both the ICE TYPE and WATER/CRUSHED ICE dispenser buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds. The display will enter a diagnostic sequence showing stored fault codes. On models without a dispenser (bottom-freezer KRFF507 variants), hold the LIGHT and LOCK buttons for 3 seconds. Write down every code displayed before proceeding.
2. 2STEP 2 — RECORD ALL CODES: The diagnostic mode will cycle through stored error codes. Allow the full sequence to complete (typically 30–60 seconds) before clearing. Having the full history helps identify patterns — E2 + E3 together strongly suggests a defrost system failure rather than an isolated sensor fault.
3. 3STEP 3 — CLEAR CODES: After recording all codes, clear the fault memory by pressing and holding the same button combination (ICE TYPE + WATER) for 3 seconds again, or cycling through the diagnostic menu to the 'CL' (clear) option. Alternatively, unplug the refrigerator for 5 minutes — this performs a soft reset and clears most stored codes. Note: clearing codes does not fix the underlying problem — it only resets the counter.

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• KitchenAid Thermistor (Fresh Food / Freezer) — WPW10316760

  OEM temperature sensor thermistor for KitchenAid refrigerators. Used for both fresh food (E0/E1 codes) and freezer (E2 code) sensor replacements. Test resistance against temperature spec before replacing.

  $15–$30

  Buy on Amazon →

• KitchenAid Defrost Heater — WPW10225581

  OEM defrost heater assembly. Triggers E3 error when failed. Replace when heater resistance reads OL on a multimeter. The most common cause of E3 codes and frost-blocked evaporators.

  $25–$45

  Buy on Amazon →

• KitchenAid Defrost Thermostat — WPW10315739

  OEM defrost thermostat/thermal cutout. Triggers E3 or E6 codes when failed open. Replace when it reads OL (open circuit) when cold.

  $10–$20

  Buy on Amazon →

• KitchenAid Evaporator Fan Motor — WPW10189703

  OEM evaporator fan motor. Triggers E4 error when failed or stalled. Replace when fan blades don't spin freely or motor reads open on a multimeter.

  $40–$80

  Buy on Amazon →

• KitchenAid Condenser Fan Motor — WPW10197559

  OEM condenser fan motor located at the rear lower section of the refrigerator. Triggers E5 error when failed. Replace when fan blade is clear of debris but motor reads open or doesn't run.

  $40–$75

  Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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