KitchenAid Refrigerator Not Making Ice
A KitchenAid refrigerator that stops making ice is one of the most common service calls, and in the majority of cases the fix costs under $60. The most frequent culprits are: the ice maker arm in the off position (free fix), a water filter past its 6-month service life, a frozen fill tube, or a failed water inlet valve (WPW10498990). Less often, the ice maker module (WPW10757851) itself needs replacement. Models covered: KRFC704FPS (French door), KRMF706ESS (4-door), KRFF507ESS (French door), KRSF505ESS (side-by-side). Note that 'no ice', 'not enough ice', and 'ice tastes bad' are different problems — this guide addresses all three sub-problems. Work through checks in order before buying parts.
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Common Symptoms
- Ice maker not producing any ice cubes
- Ice production has slowed significantly (not enough ice)
- Ice has an off taste or smell
- Ice maker making noise but no ice dropping into bin
- Ice clumped together in the bin
- Water dispenser works but ice maker does not
Most Likely Causes
- 1
Ice Maker Arm in OFF Position (Most Common — Free Fix)
The ice maker has a wire shut-off arm (or optical sensor on newer models) that stops ice production when the bin is full. If someone raised the arm accidentally, or it got stuck in the UP position, the ice maker will not cycle. On KRFC704 and KRFF507 French door models, check the arm inside the freezer compartment. On KRSF505 side-by-side models, the arm is at the front of the ice maker. Push the arm down firmly to the ON position — it should click or rest in the lowered position.
- 2
Frozen Fill Tube Blocking Water Flow
The fill tube is a small plastic tube that delivers water from the inlet valve into the ice maker tray. On KitchenAid refrigerators, this tube is prone to freezing — particularly if the freezer temperature drops below 0°F or if the fill tube heater (WPW10229647) has failed. A frozen fill tube means water never reaches the ice maker even though the valve opens. You can thaw it temporarily with a hairdryer, but if it refreezes, the heater assembly needs replacement.
- 3
Clogged or Expired Water Filter
KitchenAid recommends replacing the water filter every 6 months. A clogged filter restricts water flow to the ice maker and dispenser. KitchenAid uses WF-NL240 (Push-in style, EveryDrop #4) or WF-NL300 (twist-in, EveryDrop #3/EveryDrop #1 depending on model). A filter indicator light on the dispenser panel turns red when replacement is overdue. Replace the filter and run 2–3 ice maker cycles to flush. Note: running without a filter (bypass plug installed) can eliminate the filter as a suspect.
- 4
Failed Water Inlet Valve (WPW10498990)
The water inlet valve (WPW10498990) is a dual solenoid valve — one solenoid feeds the ice maker, the other feeds the water dispenser. When the ice maker solenoid fails, you get no water to the ice maker while the dispenser may still work (or vice versa). Solenoid resistance should measure 200–500 Ω with a multimeter. Outside that range, or if resistance reads OL (open circuit), replace the valve. This valve also fails by leaking internally — drips around the valve body require replacement.
- 5
Defective Ice Maker Module (WPW10757851)
The ice maker module controls the harvest cycle — it signals the water valve to fill, monitors the ice tray temperature, and activates the ejector blades. When the module fails, the ice maker appears to do nothing even though the freezer is cold and water is reaching the valve. You can run a forced test cycle by pressing and holding the test button on the ice maker module for 3 seconds — the ice maker should begin a harvest cycle within 30 seconds. If it doesn't respond to the test button, the module is likely defective.
- 6
Incorrect Freezer Temperature
The ice maker requires a freezer temperature of 0°F (-18°C) or below to produce ice reliably. If the freezer is set above 10°F or the actual temperature is warmer than the setpoint (due to a failing evaporator fan, dirty coils, or defrost system issue), the ice maker will cycle very slowly or stop entirely. Check the actual freezer temperature with a thermometer rather than relying on the digital display.
- 7
Ice Level Control Board (Optical Sensor Models)
KRFC704FPS and KRMF706ESS models use an infrared optical sensor (ice level control board) to detect when the ice bin is full, rather than a mechanical arm. If the sensor lenses get dirty or frosted over, the ice maker thinks the bin is full and stops producing. Clean the sensor lenses in the freezer door/ice compartment with a dry cloth. If cleaning doesn't restore production, the ice level control board may need replacement.
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Quick DIY Checks
UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR before accessing the water inlet valve, fill tube heater, or ice maker module wiring. These components are live at 120V AC and present a shock hazard.
SHUT OFF THE WATER SUPPLY LINE before removing the water inlet valve. The supply line is under household pressure (40–80 PSI) — disconnecting it without shutting off water will result in flooding.
DO NOT USE SHARP OBJECTS to dislodge frozen ice in the ice maker or bin. Sharp tools can puncture refrigerant tubing or damage plastic components. Use warm water or a hairdryer on low heat only.
ALLOW THE ICE MAKER 24 HOURS after any repair before judging results. The ice maker only runs when the freezer reaches 15°F or below, and a full bin takes 12–24 hours to produce.
- 1STEP 1 — CHECK ICE MAKER ARM/SENSOR: Open the freezer and locate the ice maker. Check that the wire shut-off arm is in the DOWN (on) position. On optical sensor models (KRFC704, KRMF706), clean the sensor lenses with a dry cloth. This is a free fix and takes 30 seconds.
- 2STEP 2 — VERIFY FREEZER TEMPERATURE: Place an appliance thermometer in the freezer for 2 hours. Target temperature is 0°F (-18°C). If the freezer is above 10°F, the ice maker will produce little or no ice. Adjust the temperature setting and allow 24 hours for the freezer to stabilize.
- 3STEP 3 — REPLACE WATER FILTER: Locate the filter — on French door models it's in the upper right of the refrigerator interior; on side-by-side models it's in the top left. Replace with WF-NL240 (EveryDrop #4) or WF-NL300 (EveryDrop #3) as appropriate for your model. After replacement, dispense 3 gallons of water to flush the system. Install the bypass plug to test without a filter if you need to eliminate the filter as a variable.
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Repair vs Replace
Ice maker failures are almost always component-level repairs — not a reason to replace the refrigerator. The water inlet valve (WPW10498990, ~$45–65), ice maker module (WPW10757851, ~$60–110), and fill tube heater (WPW10229647, ~$15–30) are all straightforward DIY replacements. Even replacing the entire ice maker assembly costs $80–$150 and takes under an hour. Only consider replacement if the refrigerator has multiple simultaneous failures or is over 15 years old.
Est. Repair Cost
$0–$130
Est. Replacement Cost
$1,200–$3,000
Recommended Tools & Parts
- Buy on Amazon →
KitchenAid Water Inlet Valve — WPW10498990
OEM dual solenoid water inlet valve for KitchenAid refrigerators. Controls water flow to both the ice maker and water dispenser. Replace when solenoid resistance is outside 200–500 Ω range, or when the valve leaks internally.
$45–$65
- Buy on Amazon →
KitchenAid Ice Maker Module Assembly — WPW10757851
OEM ice maker module/controller assembly. Controls harvest cycles, water fill, and ejector blades. Replace when ice maker doesn't respond to the 3-second forced test cycle or shows no activity despite correct temperature and water flow.
$60–$110
- Buy on Amazon →
KitchenAid Fill Tube Heater — WPW10229647
OEM fill tube heater assembly. Prevents the water fill tube from freezing between ice maker cycles. Replace when the fill tube repeatedly freezes within 24–48 hours of manual thawing.
$15–$30
- Buy on Amazon →
KitchenAid EveryDrop Water Filter #4 — WF-NL240
OEM replacement water filter for KitchenAid French door and bottom-freezer refrigerators. Push-in style filter. Replace every 6 months to maintain ice maker performance and water taste.
$40–$55
- Buy on Amazon →
KitchenAid EveryDrop Water Filter #3 — WF-NL300
OEM replacement water filter for KitchenAid side-by-side models (KRSF505ESS). Twist-in style. Replace every 6 months for best performance.
$40–$55
Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.
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Frequently Asked Questions
- How do I run a forced test cycle on my KitchenAid ice maker?
- Locate the test button on the side or front face of the ice maker module (WPW10757851). Press and hold the button for 3 full seconds — the ice maker will begin a harvest cycle. You should hear the motor activate and see the ejector blades start turning within 30 seconds. The ice maker will fill, freeze, and harvest — a complete cycle takes 8–12 minutes. If nothing happens after 3 attempts, the module is likely defective. Note: the freezer must be at 15°F or below for the test cycle to initiate on most models.
- My KitchenAid dispenses water fine but makes no ice — what's wrong?
- When the water dispenser works but the ice maker doesn't, the problem is almost always the ice maker solenoid on the water inlet valve (WPW10498990), not the main water supply. The dual solenoid valve has one port for the dispenser and one for the ice maker — when only the ice maker solenoid fails, the dispenser continues to work. Test resistance across the ice maker solenoid terminals (target: 200–500 Ω). Also check that the ice maker arm is in the down/ON position and that the freezer is at 0°F.
- How long does a KitchenAid ice maker take to make ice after being reset?
- After a reset, filter change, or repair, a KitchenAid ice maker needs 24 hours to produce a full bin of ice. The ice maker runs its first cycle about 90 minutes after the freezer reaches 15°F or below. Each cycle produces 8–12 cubes and takes about 90 minutes. A full bin (approximately 4 lbs) takes 12–24 hours. If you've done a repair, wait a full 24 hours before concluding the repair didn't work.
- Why does my KitchenAid ice taste bad even after a filter change?
- Bad-tasting ice after a filter change usually means the new filter wasn't flushed properly. Dispense 3–4 gallons of water through the dispenser to flush the carbon fines from the new filter. Also discard the first two batches of ice. If the taste persists, check that the ice bin is clean (wash with warm soapy water, rinse thoroughly) and that the freezer doesn't contain strong-smelling foods stored without lids — ice absorbs odors from the freezer air. Activated charcoal absorber packs placed in the freezer can help.
- Can I use a non-OEM water filter in my KitchenAid refrigerator?
- Third-party filters will work mechanically, but KitchenAid recommends OEM EveryDrop filters (WF-NL240 or WF-NL300) for NSF 42/53 certified contaminant reduction. Using a non-certified filter may not adequately remove chlorine and particulates that cause off-tasting ice. Some aftermarket filters also have inconsistent flow rates that can confuse the ice maker's fill timing. If you use a third-party filter and ice quality is poor, switch to OEM before troubleshooting further.