KitchenAid Refrigerator Freezer Not Freezing
A KitchenAid freezer that won't maintain 0°F is a food safety emergency, but in the majority of cases the root cause is a failed defrost system or a bad start relay — not a dead compressor. Frost-blocked evaporator coils from a failed defrost heater (WPW10225581) are the single most common cause of freezer warm-up: the frost insulates the coils until cold air can't circulate. A failed evaporator fan motor (WPW10189703), a rattling start relay (WPW10613606), or a failed temperature sensor (WPW10316760) are also common. Models covered: KRFC704FPS, KRMF706ESS, KRFF507ESS, KRSF505ESS. Diagnose systematically — compressor replacement costs $600+ while most actual repairs are $20–$80.
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Common Symptoms
- Freezer not cold enough — above 10°F
- Frozen food is soft or partially thawed
- Frost or ice buildup visible on freezer back wall
- Freezer is completely warm despite compressor running
- Ice maker has stopped producing ice (secondary symptom)
- Compressor runs continuously but freezer won't get cold
Most Likely Causes
- 1
Frost-Blocked Evaporator Coils (Defrost System Failure — Most Common)
When the defrost heater (WPW10225581) or defrost thermostat (WPW10315739) fails, frost accumulates on the evaporator coils at the back of the freezer. Over days or weeks, the frost builds into a solid block of ice that completely insulates the coils. Cold air can no longer circulate, and the freezer gradually warms. You'll see heavy frost on the freezer back wall or hear no airflow sounds. Remove the freezer back panel to inspect — a wall of frost confirms this diagnosis.
- 2
Failed Evaporator Fan Motor (WPW10189703)
The evaporator fan motor (WPW10189703) circulates cold air throughout the freezer and refrigerator compartments. When this motor fails, the compressor runs but cold air doesn't move — both compartments warm up. You can test by pressing the door switch (or using a pen to depress it while the door is open) — you should hear the fan running. No fan sound while the compressor is running strongly suggests a failed evaporator fan. Also spin the fan blades by hand (with power off) — they should turn freely with no binding.
- 3
Failed Start Relay (WPW10613606)
The start relay (WPW10613606) is a small component plugged into the compressor's side terminals. It provides the starting boost the compressor needs to turn on. When the relay fails, the compressor clicks but won't start — you'll hear a clicking noise every few minutes as the overload protector trips. The classic field test: remove the relay and shake it. A rattling sound means the internal component has broken loose — replace the relay. This is a $15–$25 fix that looks like a $600 compressor failure.
- 4
Defective Defrost Heater (WPW10225581)
The defrost heater (WPW10225581) runs automatically twice a day to melt frost off the evaporator coils. When the heater burns out, frost accumulates uncontrolled. Test with a multimeter: disconnect the heater and measure resistance across its terminals. A functional heater reads 15–30 Ω. OL (open) = failed heater, replace immediately. This part is the most common single-point failure in KitchenAid refrigerator defrost systems.
- 5
Failed Defrost Thermostat (WPW10315739)
The defrost thermostat (WPW10315739) acts as a safety cutoff — it opens the heater circuit when the evaporator reaches ~50°F to prevent overheating. When the thermostat fails in the open position, it breaks the heater circuit permanently, causing the same frost buildup as a failed heater. Test with a multimeter when cold (put in freezer for 10 minutes first) — should read continuity (closed). At room temperature it may read OL, which is normal. If it reads OL when cold, it's failed.
- 6
Failed Door Gasket — Air Leak
A torn or warped freezer door gasket allows warm, humid air to enter continuously. The moisture freezes on the coils, and the warmer air raises the average freezer temperature. The dollar-bill test: close the freezer door on a dollar bill — you should feel firm resistance when pulling it out. No resistance at any point around the door perimeter means the gasket is failing and needs replacement. Check all four sides and the corners, where gaskets typically fail first.
- 7
Dirty Condenser Coils
Condenser coils under the refrigerator (behind the toe grille) dissipate heat from the refrigerant cycle. When coated with dust and pet hair, heat can't dissipate, compressor head pressure rises, and the entire system becomes less efficient. The freezer may warm gradually over months as coils accumulate debris. Vacuum or brush the coils — it's free and should be done twice a year.
- 8
Failed Temperature Sensor (WPW10316760)
The freezer temperature sensor (WPW10316760) reports the actual temperature to the control board. When the sensor drifts or fails, the control board may not call for cooling when the freezer is actually warm. You can compare the control board's displayed temperature against an independent thermometer placed in the freezer — if the displayed temperature reads 0°F while your thermometer shows 20°F, the sensor is reading incorrectly. Test sensor resistance vs. temperature spec chart in the service manual.
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Quick DIY Checks
UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR before removing any panels, accessing the evaporator, or touching the start relay or compressor. These components operate at 120V AC. Do not rely on the door switch to cut power to internal components.
DO NOT PIERCE THE EVAPORATOR COILS. Refrigerant lines run through and behind the evaporator — puncturing them releases refrigerant gas, which is harmful to breathe and requires EPA-certified technician repair. Only use warm water or a hairdryer (low, indirect heat) to defrost.
MANUAL DEFROST WATER MANAGEMENT: A frost-blocked evaporator can contain several pounds of ice. Place thick towels inside the freezer and have a mop ready. Unplug and leave the doors open for 24–48 hours, or use a hairdryer on low heat keeping it at least 6 inches from the coils.
FOOD SAFETY: If the freezer has been above 10°F for more than 2 hours, consider food safety. The USDA recommends discarding meat, poultry, and seafood if the freezer temperature has exceeded 40°F for more than 2 hours.
- 1STEP 1 — VERIFY FREEZER TEMPERATURE: Place an appliance thermometer in the center of the freezer for 2 hours. The target is 0°F (-18°C). Note both the displayed temperature and the actual measured temperature — a mismatch suggests a failed temperature sensor (WPW10316760). If the freezer is above 10°F, proceed through the remaining checks.
- 2STEP 2 — INSPECT DOOR GASKET SEAL: Close the freezer door on a dollar bill at multiple points around the perimeter. You should feel firm resistance when pulling the bill. Also visually inspect the gasket for tears, cracks, or areas where it pulls away from the door. A failing gasket is especially common at the corners. Replace if the seal is compromised — gasket replacement takes 20 minutes with no tools.
- 3STEP 3 — CLEAN CONDENSER COILS: Pull the refrigerator away from the wall and remove the lower back panel, or remove the toe grille at the front bottom. Using a coil cleaning brush or vacuum with a brush attachment, clean all condenser coil fins thoroughly. Also clean the condenser fan blades. This is free and takes 15 minutes — skip this step only if the coils were cleaned within the last 3 months.
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Repair vs Replace
Most freezer not-freezing failures are caused by inexpensive components: start relay WPW10613606 ($15–25), defrost heater WPW10225581 ($25–45), defrost thermostat WPW10315739 ($10–20), or evaporator fan WPW10189703 ($40–80). Even replacing all four parts costs less than $170. Only if the compressor itself has failed (confirmed by a technician with gauges) should replacement be seriously considered — and even then, KitchenAid compressor replacement costs $400–700 in parts plus labor, which may pencil out vs. a $2,500 new unit.
Est. Repair Cost
$15–$120
Est. Replacement Cost
$1,200–$3,000
Recommended Tools & Parts
- Buy on Amazon →
KitchenAid Evaporator Fan Motor — WPW10189703
OEM evaporator fan motor for KitchenAid refrigerators. Circulates air throughout the freezer and fresh food compartments. Replace when the fan doesn't spin freely, reads open on a multimeter, or makes grinding/squealing noises.
$40–$80
- Buy on Amazon →
KitchenAid Defrost Heater — WPW10225581
OEM defrost heater assembly for KitchenAid refrigerators. Melts frost off evaporator coils during automatic defrost cycles. Replace when resistance reads OL on a multimeter — the most common single-point defrost system failure.
$25–$45
- Buy on Amazon →
KitchenAid Defrost Thermostat — WPW10315739
OEM defrost thermostat (thermal cutout). Cuts heater power when evaporator reaches ~50°F. Replace when it reads OL (open) when cold — a failed thermostat prevents the defrost heater from running.
$10–$20
- Buy on Amazon →
KitchenAid Start Relay — WPW10613606
OEM compressor start relay. If this relay rattles when shaken, the internal component has failed — replace immediately. A failed start relay mimics a failed compressor but costs $15–25 to fix vs. $600+ for compressor replacement.
$15–$25
- Buy on Amazon →
KitchenAid Temperature Sensor — WPW10316760
OEM freezer temperature sensor (thermistor). Replace when the displayed temperature doesn't match an independent thermometer reading, or when the control board shows an E2 error code.
$15–$30
Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.
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Frequently Asked Questions
- How do I tell if the compressor or the start relay is the problem?
- Remove the start relay (WPW10613606) from the compressor terminals and shake it near your ear. A rattling sound means the relay has failed — replace it for $15–25 before concluding the compressor is bad. If the relay doesn't rattle but the compressor still won't start (you hear clicking every few minutes), try running the compressor with a known-good relay. If the compressor still won't start with a new relay, you'll need a technician with refrigerant gauges to evaluate the compressor. Compressor failure is often confirmed by measuring suction and discharge pressures — both equalizing at the same pressure means the compressor valve has failed.
- My KitchenAid freezer is cold for a few days then warms up — what's causing the cycle?
- A freeze-warm cycle almost always points to a failed defrost heater (WPW10225581) or defrost thermostat (WPW10315739). The sequence is: defrost system fails → frost slowly accumulates on evaporator → after several days frost completely blocks airflow → freezer warms → you unplug the unit or ice melts partially → freezer cools again temporarily. The cycle repeats. Remove the freezer back panel and look for a solid wall of frost on the evaporator coils to confirm. Test the defrost heater (should read 15–30 Ω) and thermostat (should show continuity when cold).
- Should I hear the fan running when the KitchenAid freezer door is open?
- No — the evaporator fan turns off when the door opens. This is by design; running the fan with the door open would pull warm room air across the coils. To test the fan with the door open, press the door switch (small button or paddle near the door hinge or frame) with a pen to simulate a closed door. You should hear the fan running from behind the freezer back panel. If the fan doesn't run when the door switch is depressed and the compressor is running, the fan motor (WPW10189703) is likely failed.
- How often should I clean KitchenAid condenser coils?
- KitchenAid recommends cleaning the condenser coils every 6–12 months under the refrigerator. In homes with pets, clean every 3–4 months — pet hair accumulates on coils rapidly and significantly reduces cooling efficiency. Dirty coils are the #1 preventable cause of premature compressor failure. Pull the refrigerator out and remove the lower back panel or toe grille. Use a condenser coil brush (flexible brush on a long handle) or a vacuum with a brush attachment to clean the fins.