KitchenAid Refrigerator Not Cooling
A KitchenAid refrigerator that's warm — especially when the freezer still feels cold — is almost always suffering from an airflow or defrost failure, not a dead compressor. The evaporator fan motor (WPW10189703) is the prime suspect when the fridge section warms while the freezer stays cold. A frost-blocked evaporator from a defrost failure, dusty condenser coils, or a failed start relay are other common causes. Models covered: KRFC704FPS (French door), KRMF706ESS (4-door), KRFF507ESS (French door), KRSF505ESS (side-by-side). Work through these checks in order before purchasing any parts.
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Common Symptoms
- Fridge section is warm but freezer compartment is cold
- Both fridge and freezer are warm despite compressor running
- Food spoiling faster than normal
- Compressor running continuously but not achieving set temperature
Most Likely Causes
- 1
Failed Evaporator Fan Motor (Most Common When Freezer Is Cold)
The evaporator fan (WPW10189703) circulates cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator compartment. When this motor fails or seizes, the freezer stays cold while the fridge warms. You can confirm this by pressing the door switch — the fan should spin up audibly. No sound when the door switch is depressed = suspect evaporator fan.
- 2
Frost-Blocked Evaporator (Defrost System Failure)
If the defrost heater (WPW10225581) or defrost thermostat (WPW10135106) fails, frost accumulates on the evaporator coils until airflow is completely blocked. The freezer may still be somewhat cold, but the fridge section warms as no air can circulate. Removing the freezer back panel to inspect for heavy frost buildup confirms this diagnosis.
- 3
Dirty Condenser Coils
Condenser coils on KitchenAid refrigerators are located underneath the unit behind the toe grille. Dust and pet hair accumulate on the coils, acting as insulation and forcing the compressor to run longer and hotter. Severely clogged coils can cause the compressor to overheat and the refrigerator to stop cooling entirely. Cleaning is free and takes 15 minutes.
- 4
Failed Condenser Fan Motor
The condenser fan motor (WPW10197559) draws air across the condenser coils and over the compressor. When this fan fails, heat can't dissipate and the compressor overheats. Both compartments will warm. The fan should run whenever the compressor is running — check by pulling the fridge away from the wall and listening while the compressor cycles.
- 5
Failed Compressor Start Relay
The start relay (WPW10613606) helps the compressor start under load. When it fails, the compressor may click on and off rapidly or fail to start at all. Shake the relay — a rattling sound indicates a failed relay. Replacing the relay ($15–$30) often restores cooling without replacing the compressor.
- 6
Bad Thermistor
The fridge thermistor (WPW10316760) reads the compartment temperature and tells the control board when to run the compressor and fans. A failed thermistor sends incorrect temperature readings, causing the control board to undercool or overcool. This results in erratic temperatures rather than a complete no-cooling failure.
- 7
Door Gasket Failure
Worn or torn door gaskets allow warm room air to continuously infiltrate the refrigerator, making it impossible to maintain temperature. The fridge gasket is WPW10300924 and the freezer gasket is WPW10300923. A dollar-bill drag test on all four door edges quickly identifies a failing seal.
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Quick DIY Checks
Unplug the refrigerator before accessing the evaporator fan, evaporator coils, or compressor. Do not attempt to work inside the rear access panel or freezer back panel with power connected.
Wear work gloves when reaching near condenser coils — the metal fins are sharp and can cause cuts. The coils and compressor may also be hot if the unit has been running.
- 1Check temperature settings first: verify the fridge is set to 37°F and the freezer to 0°F via the control panel. On KRFC704 and KRMF706 models, settings can be accidentally changed. Reset to recommended values and allow 24 hours for the unit to stabilize before further diagnosis.
- 2Perform the door gasket drag test: close a dollar bill in each door, all four edges. If the bill slides out with little resistance, the gasket is failing. Inspect for visible tears or hardening. Replace fridge gasket WPW10300924 or freezer gasket WPW10300923 if the test fails. This is a 20-minute no-tools repair.
- 3Clean the condenser coils: pull the refrigerator away from the wall and remove the toe grille at the bottom front. Use a vacuum with a brush attachment to remove dust from the coils. The coils should be cleaned every 6–12 months. Heavily clogged coils alone can cause a complete no-cooling failure. This fix is free.
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Repair vs Replace
KitchenAid refrigerators in the KRFC704, KRMF706, KRFF507, and KRSF505 families are premium appliances with 15+ year expected lifespans. Most not-cooling repairs — evaporator fan, defrost heater, start relay, thermistor, or condenser coil cleaning — cost under $100 in parts. Even a condenser fan motor replacement is well under $200. Only consider replacement if the sealed refrigeration system (compressor, refrigerant) has failed on a unit over 12 years old.
Est. Repair Cost
$15–$350 in parts (DIY)
Est. Replacement Cost
$1,500–$3,000 for a new KitchenAid refrigerator
Recommended Tools & Parts
- Buy on Amazon →
KitchenAid Condenser Fan Motor — WPW10197559
OEM condenser fan motor for KitchenAid KRFC704, KRMF706, KRFF507, and KRSF505 refrigerators. Replaces a seized or open-circuit motor that causes both compartments to warm.
$40–$80
- Buy on Amazon →
KitchenAid Evaporator Fan Motor — WPW10189703
OEM evaporator fan motor for KitchenAid refrigerators. Prime suspect when freezer is cold but fridge section is warm. Includes mounting bracket on most configurations.
$35–$75
- Buy on Amazon →
KitchenAid Defrost Heater — WPW10225581
OEM defrost heater assembly for KitchenAid refrigerators. Replace when the heater tests open (OL) and frost is blocking the evaporator coils.
$25–$50
- Buy on Amazon →
KitchenAid Compressor Start Relay — WPW10613606
OEM start relay for KitchenAid refrigerator compressor. Replace if it rattles when shaken. One of the fastest and cheapest not-cooling fixes available.
$15–$30
- Buy on Amazon →
KitchenAid Refrigerator Door Gasket — WPW10300924
OEM fridge door gasket for KitchenAid French door and side-by-side refrigerators. Replace if the dollar-bill drag test shows air infiltration on any edge.
$40–$80
Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.
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Frequently Asked Questions
- Why is my KitchenAid fridge warm but the freezer is cold?
- When the freezer is cold but the fridge section is warm, the refrigeration system is working — the problem is airflow. The evaporator fan (WPW10189703) circulates cold air from the freezer into the fridge. If that fan has failed or if thick frost has blocked the evaporator, cold air can't reach the fridge section. Press the door switch with the freezer open — you should hear the fan running. No fan sound = replace the evaporator fan or defrost the unit to check for a frost blockage.
- How do I know if my KitchenAid refrigerator defrost system has failed?
- Remove the back panel inside the freezer compartment. If the evaporator coils are coated in a thick layer of frost or ice, the defrost system has failed. Unplug the fridge for 24 hours to let it fully defrost, then plug it back in — if it cools normally for a few days before warming again, the defrost heater (WPW10225581) or thermostat (WPW10135106) needs replacement.
- My KitchenAid refrigerator compressor clicks on and off — what's wrong?
- Rapid clicking followed by the compressor stopping is a classic failed start relay symptom. Pull the relay (WPW10613606) off the side of the compressor and shake it. If it rattles, the internal contact has broken and the relay cannot help the compressor start. Replace the relay — it costs $15–$30 and takes 5 minutes to swap.
- How often should I clean KitchenAid refrigerator condenser coils?
- Every 6–12 months in normal conditions. If you have pets that shed, every 3–4 months. Dirty condenser coils are one of the most overlooked maintenance items on any refrigerator. On KitchenAid models, the coils are located underneath the unit behind the toe grille — remove the grille and vacuum thoroughly with a brush attachment.