Appliance Repairs

Kenmore Refrigerator Ice Maker Not Working — Full Diagnostic Guide

A Kenmore refrigerator ice maker that has stopped working is one of the most common service calls, and the repair is usually one of four inexpensive fixes: the freezer isn't cold enough, the water inlet valve has failed, the ice maker arm is in the OFF position, or the ice mold thermostat has failed. Understanding which fix applies to your model requires knowing whether your Kenmore is built by Whirlpool or LG — the ice maker assemblies are very different between platforms. **Platform identification (check inside fresh-food compartment for the model label):** - **Model 106.xxx (Whirlpool-built, e.g. 106.73025601):** Traditional ice maker module with a rotating arm (bail arm) or wire shutoff arm. Modular design — the ice maker head assembly and water inlet valve are separate, serviceable parts. - **Model 795.xxx (LG-built, e.g. 795.51833.410):** Typically uses a newer twist-ice or crescent-ice design. The ice maker is more integrated, with built-in thermistor diagnostics. LG-platform Kenmore models may display Er IF (ice maker fan fault) or show the ice maker as a separate functional block in the service menu. For error code context, see /fixes/kenmore-refrigerator-error-codes. For overall cooling issues, see /fixes/kenmore-refrigerator-not-cooling.

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Common Symptoms

  • Ice maker produces no ice at all
  • Ice maker produces ice very slowly (a few cubes every several hours)
  • Ice maker was working and stopped suddenly
  • Refrigerator beeps or shows ice maker error code (Er IF)
  • Ice bin is empty despite the ice maker appearing to cycle
  • Ice cubes are small, hollow, or malformed
  • Water runs into the ice maker tray but freezes as a solid block instead of cubes

Most Likely Causes

  1. 1

    Freezer Temperature Too Warm (Most Overlooked Cause)

    The ice maker requires the freezer to be between 0°F and 5°F (-18°C to -15°C) to complete a harvest cycle. At temperatures above 10°F, ice production slows dramatically; above 15°F, most ice makers stop entirely. Before diagnosing any ice maker components, verify the freezer temperature with a separate thermometer placed in a glass of water in the freezer for 8 hours. If the freezer is above 10°F, diagnose the cooling system first — a failing ice maker is often the first symptom of a larger cooling issue. See /fixes/kenmore-refrigerator-not-cooling.

  2. 2

    Ice Maker Arm in OFF Position

    On Whirlpool-based Kenmore models (106.xxx), the ice maker has a bail arm (plastic or wire arm) that rises as the ice bin fills and shuts the ice maker off when full. If this arm is stuck in the raised (OFF) position — from ice build-up, a fallen item in the bin, or accidental bump — the ice maker will not cycle even though everything is functioning. Check the arm position first: it should rest down (in the ice bin) to allow production. On some models, the shutoff is a feeler arm on the side of the ice maker; on others it's a wire bail that wraps over the front.

  3. 3

    Water Inlet Valve Failure

    The water inlet valve is a solenoid-operated valve that opens to fill the ice maker tray with water. When the solenoid coil fails (open circuit) or the valve body becomes clogged with mineral scale, water doesn't reach the ice maker. On Kenmore 106.xxx (Whirlpool) models, the primary valve for the ice maker fill is often a dual-solenoid valve — one solenoid for the ice maker, one for the door dispenser. Part: WPW10408179 or equivalent. On LG 795.xxx models, a similar dual-inlet valve is used but with different connectors and flow specs. Test the ice maker solenoid: disconnect and measure resistance across the terminals — should read 200–500Ω. An open circuit (OL) confirms failure.

  4. 4

    Ice Maker Module Failure

    On Whirlpool-platform Kenmore models (106.xxx), the ice maker module is the control head that drives the harvest cycle — it controls the heater that releases ice from the mold, the motor that ejects the cubes, and the water fill solenoid timing. The module can fail internally (motor, thermostat, or circuit board inside the assembly). Testing requires a jumper wire test: with the unit plugged in, use a jumper wire to connect the T and H test points on the ice maker module (the two terminals in the middle of the 3-hole or 4-hole test port on the module face) — this forces a harvest cycle. If the motor runs and the mold heater activates but no water fills, the inlet valve is the fault. If nothing happens on the jumper test, the module has failed.

  5. 5

    Door Switch Failure (Ice Maker Interlock)

    The refrigerator door switch controls both the interior light and, on many Kenmore models, the ice maker and dispenser circuit. When the door switch fails in the open position, the refrigerator 'thinks' the door is always open and disables the ice maker. Test the door switch: open the door so the plunger is released and check for continuity with a multimeter (should show continuity when the plunger is free/extended). Depress the plunger (simulating a closed door) — continuity should break on the light circuit and make on the ice maker circuit (depending on switch wiring). A switch that shows the same continuity state whether depressed or released is failed.

  6. 6

    Ice Mold Thermostat Failure

    The ice mold thermostat monitors the temperature of the ice maker tray. It tells the ice maker module when the water has frozen sufficiently to begin the harvest cycle. A failed thermostat (stuck open) will prevent the ice maker from ever initiating a harvest — the water fills the tray and freezes, but the module never gets the signal to eject the ice. Test: the ice mold thermostat should show continuity when cold (below ~15°F). Remove the ice maker, disconnect the thermostat, and test it with the component cold (in the freezer for 10 minutes) — if it shows open circuit when cold, the thermostat has failed.

  7. 7

    LG-Based Models (795.xxx) — Specific Considerations

    On LG-built Kenmore French door models (795.xxx), the ice maker is typically in the upper fresh-food section (in-door or in-compartment) and is a different design than the Whirlpool twist-and-eject module. LG ice makers have a dedicated ice maker fan (Er IF fault when it fails), a dedicated ice maker thermostat, and operate with a different harvest cycle timing. A common LG-specific failure: the ice maker heater (which releases cubes during harvest) burns out, causing the ice maker to freeze solid into a block. If you can see ice but it's frozen into a large chunk in the ice maker, the heater has failed. The LG ice maker assembly on 795.xxx Kenmore models is usually replaced as a complete unit ($60–$120) rather than repaired component by component.

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Quick DIY Checks

Safety Warning

Unplug the refrigerator before removing any panels, disconnecting wiring harnesses, or working on the water inlet valve. The ice maker heater and inlet valve solenoid are both 120V components.

Caution

Turn off the household water supply to the refrigerator at the saddle valve or shutoff valve before disconnecting the water supply line or removing the inlet valve. Have towels ready — residual water in the line will drain when the connection is broken.

Caution

When jumpering the ice maker test points, be careful not to touch any other terminals or wiring with the jumper wire. Only bridge the T and H test terminals and remove the jumper immediately after the harvest cycle begins.

  1. 1Verify freezer temperature first: place a glass of water with a thermometer in the freezer. Wait 8 hours and check the temperature. It must be between 0°F and 5°F for normal ice production. If the freezer is warmer than 10°F, fix the cooling problem first — see /fixes/kenmore-refrigerator-not-cooling. Ice maker issues are often caused by a freezer that isn't cold enough rather than a failed ice maker component.
  2. 2Check the ice maker power switch and arm position: on Whirlpool-based 106.xxx Kenmore models, look for a power switch on the side or front of the ice maker assembly — confirm it's in the ON position. Then check the bail arm (a plastic or wire arm over the ice bin) — it should rest in the lowered position inside the bin. If it's raised or stuck, lower it by hand. On LG-based 795.xxx Kenmore models, check the ice maker on/off switch in the control panel display or via the refrigerator settings menu.
  3. 3Check the water supply: confirm the water supply valve behind the refrigerator is fully open. Straighten any kinks in the water supply line. If the refrigerator was recently installed or moved, verify the supply line is connected. Check the water filter — a clogged or expired water filter restricts water pressure to the ice maker. Most Kenmore models have a filter reset button or indicator light. Replace the filter if it's been more than 6 months since the last change.

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Repair vs Replace

✓ Worth Repairing

Ice maker repairs are among the most cost-effective refrigerator repairs. A failed inlet valve or ice maker module typically costs $30–$90 in parts and 1–2 hours to replace. Even a complete LG ice maker assembly replacement at $60–$120 is a fraction of a new appliance. Repair almost always makes sense unless the refrigerator itself is in poor overall condition.

Est. Repair Cost

$10–$120 depending on failed component (inlet valve $30–$60, ice maker module $45–$90, LG complete assembly $60–$120, door switch $10–$20)

Est. Replacement Cost

$800–$2,200 for a new comparable Kenmore refrigerator

Recommended Tools & Parts

  • Kenmore / Whirlpool Water Inlet Valve — WPW10408179

    Replacement water inlet valve for Kenmore refrigerators built on the Whirlpool platform (106.xxx series). Dual-solenoid valve — controls water supply to both the ice maker and the door water dispenser. Fixes no-ice and no-water-dispenser symptoms. Part: WPW10408179 or equivalent. Verify with your full model number.

    $30–$60

    Buy on Amazon →
  • Kenmore / Whirlpool Ice Maker Assembly Module

    Replacement ice maker head assembly for Kenmore refrigerators built on the Whirlpool platform (106.xxx). Includes the harvest motor, ejector blades, mold thermostat, and control circuitry. Used when the harvest cycle jumper test confirms the module has failed internally. Match to your full model number.

    $45–$90

    Buy on Amazon →
  • Kenmore / LG Ice Maker Assembly (795.xxx)

    Replacement complete ice maker assembly for LG-built Kenmore French door refrigerators (795.xxx series). Used when the LG ice maker freezes into a solid block (failed harvest heater) or fails to produce ice after confirming correct freezer temperature and water supply. Match to your full model number — French door and side-by-side LG ice maker assemblies differ.

    $60–$120

    Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Is a Kenmore 106 ice maker the same as a Whirlpool ice maker?
Yes — Kenmore refrigerators with model numbers starting with 106 are manufactured by Whirlpool. The ice maker modules, inlet valves, and mold thermostats are the same parts used in Whirlpool refrigerators and are cross-compatible. When searching for replacement parts, you can search by the Whirlpool part number (e.g. WPW10408179 for the inlet valve) or by your Kenmore model number. Parts are widely available from appliance parts suppliers.
Why does my Kenmore ice maker fill with water but not make ice?
If the ice maker fills with water but doesn't freeze it into cubes, or freezes it into a solid block, the most likely causes are: (1) freezer temperature above 10°F — the water fills but won't freeze completely within the harvest window; (2) failed ice mold thermostat — the thermostat doesn't signal the ice is frozen, so the module never runs a harvest cycle; (3) on LG 795.xxx models, a failed harvest heater that prevents ice from releasing from the mold during ejection, causing the tray to freeze solid. Check freezer temp first — it must be 0–5°F.
My Kenmore refrigerator is making ice but not enough — what's wrong?
Reduced ice production on Kenmore models is most often caused by: (1) a clogged or expired water filter restricting water flow to the ice maker — replace if over 6 months old; (2) low household water pressure — the ice maker needs at least 20 PSI to fill correctly; (3) freezer temperature slightly above optimal (should be 0–5°F, not 10°F+); (4) partial water inlet valve failure where the solenoid opens but the valve body is partially obstructed by mineral scale. On LG 795.xxx models, a partially failing ice maker fan (early Er IF condition) can also reduce production.