Kenmore Refrigerator Ice Maker Not Working — Full Diagnostic Guide

Common Symptoms

• Ice maker produces no ice at all
• Ice maker produces ice very slowly (a few cubes every several hours)
• Ice maker was working and stopped suddenly
• Refrigerator beeps or shows ice maker error code (Er IF)
• Ice bin is empty despite the ice maker appearing to cycle
• Ice cubes are small, hollow, or malformed
• Water runs into the ice maker tray but freezes as a solid block instead of cubes

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   Freezer Temperature Too Warm (Most Overlooked Cause)

   The ice maker requires the freezer to be between 0°F and 5°F (-18°C to -15°C) to complete a harvest cycle. At temperatures above 10°F, ice production slows dramatically; above 15°F, most ice makers stop entirely. Before diagnosing any ice maker components, verify the freezer temperature with a separate thermometer placed in a glass of water in the freezer for 8 hours. If the freezer is above 10°F, diagnose the cooling system first — a failing ice maker is often the first symptom of a larger cooling issue. See /fixes/kenmore-refrigerator-not-cooling.

2. 2

   Ice Maker Arm in OFF Position

   On Whirlpool-based Kenmore models (106.xxx), the ice maker has a bail arm (plastic or wire arm) that rises as the ice bin fills and shuts the ice maker off when full. If this arm is stuck in the raised (OFF) position — from ice build-up, a fallen item in the bin, or accidental bump — the ice maker will not cycle even though everything is functioning. Check the arm position first: it should rest down (in the ice bin) to allow production. On some models, the shutoff is a feeler arm on the side of the ice maker; on others it's a wire bail that wraps over the front.

3. 3

   Water Inlet Valve Failure

   The water inlet valve is a solenoid-operated valve that opens to fill the ice maker tray with water. When the solenoid coil fails (open circuit) or the valve body becomes clogged with mineral scale, water doesn't reach the ice maker. On Kenmore 106.xxx (Whirlpool) models, the primary valve for the ice maker fill is often a dual-solenoid valve — one solenoid for the ice maker, one for the door dispenser. Part: WPW10408179 or equivalent. On LG 795.xxx models, a similar dual-inlet valve is used but with different connectors and flow specs. Test the ice maker solenoid: disconnect and measure resistance across the terminals — should read 200–500Ω. An open circuit (OL) confirms failure.

4. 4

   Ice Maker Module Failure

   On Whirlpool-platform Kenmore models (106.xxx), the ice maker module is the control head that drives the harvest cycle — it controls the heater that releases ice from the mold, the motor that ejects the cubes, and the water fill solenoid timing. The module can fail internally (motor, thermostat, or circuit board inside the assembly). Testing requires a jumper wire test: with the unit plugged in, use a jumper wire to connect the T and H test points on the ice maker module (the two terminals in the middle of the 3-hole or 4-hole test port on the module face) — this forces a harvest cycle. If the motor runs and the mold heater activates but no water fills, the inlet valve is the fault. If nothing happens on the jumper test, the module has failed.

5. 5

   Door Switch Failure (Ice Maker Interlock)

   The refrigerator door switch controls both the interior light and, on many Kenmore models, the ice maker and dispenser circuit. When the door switch fails in the open position, the refrigerator 'thinks' the door is always open and disables the ice maker. Test the door switch: open the door so the plunger is released and check for continuity with a multimeter (should show continuity when the plunger is free/extended). Depress the plunger (simulating a closed door) — continuity should break on the light circuit and make on the ice maker circuit (depending on switch wiring). A switch that shows the same continuity state whether depressed or released is failed.

6. 6

   Ice Mold Thermostat Failure

   The ice mold thermostat monitors the temperature of the ice maker tray. It tells the ice maker module when the water has frozen sufficiently to begin the harvest cycle. A failed thermostat (stuck open) will prevent the ice maker from ever initiating a harvest — the water fills the tray and freezes, but the module never gets the signal to eject the ice. Test: the ice mold thermostat should show continuity when cold (below ~15°F). Remove the ice maker, disconnect the thermostat, and test it with the component cold (in the freezer for 10 minutes) — if it shows open circuit when cold, the thermostat has failed.

7. 7

   LG-Based Models (795.xxx) — Specific Considerations

   On LG-built Kenmore French door models (795.xxx), the ice maker is typically in the upper fresh-food section (in-door or in-compartment) and is a different design than the Whirlpool twist-and-eject module. LG ice makers have a dedicated ice maker fan (Er IF fault when it fails), a dedicated ice maker thermostat, and operate with a different harvest cycle timing. A common LG-specific failure: the ice maker heater (which releases cubes during harvest) burns out, causing the ice maker to freeze solid into a block. If you can see ice but it's frozen into a large chunk in the ice maker, the heater has failed. The LG ice maker assembly on 795.xxx Kenmore models is usually replaced as a complete unit ($60–$120) rather than repaired component by component.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1Verify freezer temperature first: place a glass of water with a thermometer in the freezer. Wait 8 hours and check the temperature. It must be between 0°F and 5°F for normal ice production. If the freezer is warmer than 10°F, fix the cooling problem first — see /fixes/kenmore-refrigerator-not-cooling. Ice maker issues are often caused by a freezer that isn't cold enough rather than a failed ice maker component.
2. 2Check the ice maker power switch and arm position: on Whirlpool-based 106.xxx Kenmore models, look for a power switch on the side or front of the ice maker assembly — confirm it's in the ON position. Then check the bail arm (a plastic or wire arm over the ice bin) — it should rest in the lowered position inside the bin. If it's raised or stuck, lower it by hand. On LG-based 795.xxx Kenmore models, check the ice maker on/off switch in the control panel display or via the refrigerator settings menu.
3. 3Check the water supply: confirm the water supply valve behind the refrigerator is fully open. Straighten any kinks in the water supply line. If the refrigerator was recently installed or moved, verify the supply line is connected. Check the water filter — a clogged or expired water filter restricts water pressure to the ice maker. Most Kenmore models have a filter reset button or indicator light. Replace the filter if it's been more than 6 months since the last change.

1. 4Test the water inlet valve: unplug the refrigerator. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall and remove the rear lower access panel. Locate the water inlet valve (a plastic valve body where the household water line connects, typically in the lower rear). Disconnect the electrical connectors from the ice maker fill solenoid (on a dual-solenoid valve, the ice maker solenoid is usually the rear or secondary coil). Set your multimeter to resistance (Ω) and measure across the solenoid terminals — should read 200–500Ω. An open circuit (OL) confirms solenoid failure. Part: WPW10408179 for Whirlpool 106.xxx models; model-specific part for LG 795.xxx.
2. 5Force a harvest cycle test (Whirlpool 106.xxx models): plug the refrigerator back in. Locate the ice maker module test points — a small hole or port on the face of the ice maker assembly, usually with a small cover or labeled T and H. Using a wire jumper or a straightened paperclip, briefly connect the T and H terminals. The ice maker should initiate a harvest cycle: the mold heater will activate (you'll feel warmth on the mold after 30–60 seconds) and the ejector motor will run (you'll hear and see the ice rake rotating). If the cycle runs but no water fills at the end, the inlet valve is the fault. If nothing happens, the ice maker module needs replacement.
3. 6Test the door switch: open the refrigerator door. The interior light should be on and the ice maker should be inactive (in most models, the door switch cuts the ice maker circuit when the door is open). Press the door switch plunger with your finger — the light should go off. If the light stays on when the plunger is depressed, the door switch has failed. On Kenmore 795.xxx models, the door switch is also accessible and is usually a simple two-terminal switch. Test continuity in both positions.
4. 7LG 795.xxx ice maker frozen block: if the ice maker on your LG-based Kenmore has a solid block of ice where individual cubes should be, the ice maker harvest heater has failed. To confirm: run the refrigerator's forced defrost mode (hold Refrigerator + Ice Plus for 3 seconds, display shows 'FF') for 20–30 minutes to clear the block. Then monitor — if the block returns within 24 hours and the ice maker fills with water but never ejects, the harvest heater inside the LG ice maker assembly has failed. Replace the complete ice maker assembly ($60–$120).

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• Kenmore / Whirlpool Water Inlet Valve — WPW10408179

  Replacement water inlet valve for Kenmore refrigerators built on the Whirlpool platform (106.xxx series). Dual-solenoid valve — controls water supply to both the ice maker and the door water dispenser. Fixes no-ice and no-water-dispenser symptoms. Part: WPW10408179 or equivalent. Verify with your full model number.

  $30–$60

  Buy on Amazon →

• Kenmore / Whirlpool Ice Maker Assembly Module

  Replacement ice maker head assembly for Kenmore refrigerators built on the Whirlpool platform (106.xxx). Includes the harvest motor, ejector blades, mold thermostat, and control circuitry. Used when the harvest cycle jumper test confirms the module has failed internally. Match to your full model number.

  $45–$90

  Buy on Amazon →

• Kenmore / LG Ice Maker Assembly (795.xxx)

  Replacement complete ice maker assembly for LG-built Kenmore French door refrigerators (795.xxx series). Used when the LG ice maker freezes into a solid block (failed harvest heater) or fails to produce ice after confirming correct freezer temperature and water supply. Match to your full model number — French door and side-by-side LG ice maker assemblies differ.

  $60–$120

  Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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