Samsung Dishwasher Error Codes — 4C/4E, 5C/5E, 3C, LC, OC, HE, bC2, 7E Complete Guide

Samsung dishwashers self-diagnose faults and display error codes on the control panel — once you know what the code means, most fixes are DIY-straightforward. This guide covers all major Samsung dishwasher error codes: 4C/4E (water not filling), 5C/5E/SC/SE (drain failure), 3C (wash motor), LC/LE (leak detected), OC/0C (overflow), HE/tE (heater and thermistor), bC2/PC (stuck button), and 7E (WaterWall reflector, exclusive to water wall models). Models covered: DW80R9950US, DW80T5040US, DW80M9550US, DW80CG4021SR, DW80B6060UG. Diagnostic mode entry on most models: hold Start + Hi-Temp simultaneously for 3 seconds. For general dishwasher draining problems see /fixes/dishwasher-not-draining. For Samsung-specific drain issues see /fixes/samsung-dishwasher-not-draining. Use /diagnose to upload a photo of your error display or ask a tech at /ask.

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Common Symptoms

  • Error code displayed on the Samsung control panel mid-cycle or at cycle end
  • Dishwasher fills slowly or not at all — 4C or 4E displayed
  • Standing water remains after cycle — 5C, 5E, SC, or SE displayed
  • LC or LE code appears — dishwasher shuts down mid-cycle
  • Dishes are wet and cold — HE or tE displayed
  • 3C code — dishwasher won't start washing or stops early
  • 7E code on a WaterWall model — reflector or sensor fault

Most Likely Causes

  1. 1

    4C / 4E — Water Supply Failure

    Samsung requires 20–120 PSI at the inlet valve to fill properly. Below 20 PSI triggers 4C/4E immediately. Check the water supply shutoff valve under the sink first — it must be fully open. The inlet valve has a mesh filter screen that clogs with sediment over time; a partially blocked screen causes slow fill and intermittent 4E codes. If the screen is clean and pressure is adequate, test the inlet valve solenoid resistance — typical spec is 900–1,200Ω. OL or short = failed valve, replace. Common inlet valve for DW80 series: DD62-00136A.

  2. 2

    5C / 5E / SC / SE — Drain Failure

    Samsung uses a triple-layer filter system: a coarse mesh basket at the bottom, a fine cylindrical filter, and a micro-mesh screen beneath both. When any layer clogs, the drain pump cannot move water fast enough and 5C/5E triggers. The drain hose must loop up to at least 20 inches (measured from the floor) before connecting to the disposal or standpipe — without this high loop, water siphons back into the tub and triggers 5C on the next cycle. If the filter is clean and hose is routed correctly, test the drain pump by running a Drain-Only cycle and listening — silence during drain phase means the pump motor has failed.

  3. 3

    3C — Wash Motor (Circulation Pump) Fault

    3C means the wash motor is not reaching operating RPM or has stalled. Primary causes: a foreign object (glass shard, bone chip, seed) lodged in the pump impeller, a failed wash motor winding, or a faulty motor control circuit on the main board. To check for an impeller blockage, remove the lower spray arm and filter assembly, then use a flashlight to inspect the sump cavity. On DW80 models, the wash motor is accessible from below after removing the lower access panel — the impeller can be manually rotated to check for binding.

  4. 4

    LC / LE — Leak Sensor Triggered

    Samsung uses an optical sensor mounted in the base pan that detects any standing water — even a teaspoon of moisture trips LC/LE and shuts the unit down to prevent floor damage. The most common causes are a deteriorated door gasket, loose hose clamp at the pump or spray arm inlet, or an overfilled unit. After LC trips, the base pan must be dried completely before the code will clear. Remove the kick plate, soak up all water from the pan with towels, and run a short cycle while watching for drip sources.

  5. 5

    OC / 0C — Overflow Error

    OC indicates the water level sensor detected an overfill condition. A stuck-open inlet valve solenoid allows water to continue filling past the set level. A clogged or jammed float switch in the tub bottom can also falsely trigger OC if the float sticks in the up position. Test the inlet valve: disconnect power, disconnect the water supply, and check if water continues to drip through the valve after power is removed — any flow with power off means the valve diaphragm is failed and must be replaced.

  6. 6

    HE / tE — Heater or Thermistor Fault

    HE indicates the water temperature did not reach target during the wash cycle. tE indicates the thermistor (temperature sensor) reading is out of range. Test the thermistor first: with power off, disconnect the thermistor harness connector and measure resistance. Samsung dishwasher thermistors typically read 4,000–6,000Ω at room temperature (70°F). OL or near 0Ω = failed thermistor, replace. If thermistor tests good, test the heating element: measure continuity across the element terminals — should read 15–30Ω, not OL. Common thermistor part: DD81-01954A.

  7. 7

    bC2 / PC — Stuck Button or Panel Communication Error

    bC2 indicates one or more control panel buttons are stuck in the pressed position or the panel is sending a continuous signal. PC is a panel communication error between the touchpad board and the main control board. Start with a 5-minute power-off reset. If bC2 returns, press each button firmly one at a time to release any mechanically stuck key. Moisture intrusion behind the touchpad membrane causes ghost presses — compressed air along the button seams sometimes clears it. If bC2 persists, the touchpad membrane panel needs replacement.

  8. 8

    7E — WaterWall Reflector Error (WaterWall Models Only)

    7E is exclusive to Samsung WaterWall dishwashers (models with the water wall linear spray system instead of rotating spray arms). The 7E code means the WaterWall reflector bar cannot move freely or the position sensor is not detecting movement. Causes: debris blocking the reflector track, a failed reflector motor, or a sensor fault. Remove the lower rack and inspect the WaterWall reflector guide rails for food debris or broken glass. The reflector should slide smoothly the full length of the tub — any obstruction triggers 7E.

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Quick DIY Checks

Safety Warning

LC or LE means water is in the base pan — do not run the dishwasher again until you have identified and fixed the leak source and completely dried the base pan. Continuing to operate with an active base pan leak risks water damage to the subfloor, electrical shorting of the control board, and eventual failure of the optical leak sensor itself. Unplug the dishwasher before removing the kick plate or reaching into the base pan.

Caution

Turn off power at the circuit breaker AND close the water supply valve under the sink before disconnecting the inlet valve, drain hose, or any internal plumbing connections. Even with the dishwasher off, the inlet valve solenoid is energized during fill — confirm power is off with a non-contact voltage tester before touching valve wiring.

  1. 1Power-cycle reset and code documentation: photograph the error code on the panel. Unplug the dishwasher from the wall outlet for 5 minutes (or kill the dedicated circuit breaker). Restore power and run a short cycle. If the same code returns, it is a real fault — proceed with targeted diagnosis. Do not skip this step: many LC and tE codes clear with a reset if the base pan moisture was condensation rather than an active leak.
  2. 2Diagnose 4C/4E — water supply check: turn off the dishwasher. Confirm the supply shutoff valve under the sink is fully open (valve handle parallel to the pipe = open). Disconnect the water supply line from the inlet valve at the back of the dishwasher. Look at the brass inlet port — there is a mesh filter screen inside. Use a toothbrush under running water to clean the screen. Reconnect, turn on water, and test. If the 4E persists with clean screen and confirmed open supply valve, measure household water pressure with a gauge at the nearest faucet — must be 20–120 PSI. Below 20 PSI = call your utility or check the pressure-reducing valve.
  3. 3Diagnose 5C/5E — Samsung triple filter cleaning and drain hose height check: remove the lower rack. In the center of the tub floor, locate the cylindrical fine filter — twist it counterclockwise and lift out. Remove the flat coarse mesh basket beneath it. Rinse both filters under hot running water; use a soft brush on the fine micro-mesh. Reinstall filters. Under the sink, trace the drain hose — it must arch up to at least 20 inches above floor level before dropping to the disposal or standpipe connection. A hose that runs low or flat will siphon water back into the tub. After cleaning filters and confirming hose height, run a Drain/Spin cycle to test.

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  1. 4Diagnose LC/LE — base pan drying and leak source identification: with power off, remove the toe kick panel at the bottom front of the dishwasher (usually two screws or snap-off tabs). Use a flashlight to look into the base pan — any standing water here has triggered LC. Soak up all water with towels or a turkey baster. With the base pan dry, restore power and run a short hot cycle while watching from the floor level for any drips. Common leak points: door gasket (inspect full perimeter for cracks or deformations), spray arm hub O-ring, and the drain pump outlet hose clamp.
  2. 5Diagnose 3C — wash motor impeller check: power off and unplug. Remove the lower rack, then remove the lower spray arm (usually counterclockwise). Remove the filter assembly. Use a flashlight to look straight down into the sump. You should see the wash pump inlet — check for glass, bone shards, or pits that could jam the impeller. If an object is visible, use needle-nose pliers to extract it. After clearing, rotate the visible impeller hub manually with your finger — it should spin freely with light resistance. Hard stop or grinding resistance = debris still present or damaged impeller.
  3. 6Diagnose HE/tE — thermistor and heating element test: unplug the dishwasher. The thermistor is typically clipped to the tub wall near the heating element at the bottom of the tub. Disconnect the thermistor harness and measure resistance at room temperature — spec 4,000–6,000Ω. OL = failed. For the heating element, the element runs around the perimeter of the tub floor. Disconnect both element leads and measure resistance — spec 15–30Ω. OL = failed element, replace. Both parts are accessible from inside the tub without pulling the dishwasher out.
  4. 7Enter Samsung diagnostic mode to confirm fault codes: on most DW80 series models (DW80R9950US, DW80T5040US, DW80M9550US), press and hold the Start and Hi-Temp buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds until all indicator lights illuminate. The dishwasher runs a full self-test sequence cycling through water fill, wash motor, heater, and drain. After the test, stored fault codes are displayed sequentially. This procedure helps confirm which subsystem is actually failing versus a spurious code from condensation or a power transient.

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Repair vs Replace

✓ Worth Repairing

4C and 5C codes are usually free fixes (filter cleaning, hose repositioning). LC base pan drying costs nothing. Even a failed thermistor (DD81-01954A, ~$20), heating element (~$40), or inlet valve (~$45) is a minor repair. Samsung DW80 series dishwashers are built for 10+ year lifespans. Only consider replacement if the main control board fails (typically $120–$200) on a unit already over 10 years old.

Est. Repair Cost

$15–$120 in parts (DIY)

Est. Replacement Cost

$700–$1,500 for a new Samsung dishwasher

Recommended Tools & Parts

  • Samsung Dishwasher Triple Filter Assembly

    Replacement filter kit including cylindrical fine filter, coarse mesh basket, and micro-mesh screen for Samsung dishwashers. Clean monthly — the leading cause of 5C/5E drain codes. Verify compatibility with your DW80 model number.

    $15–$35

    Buy on Amazon →
  • Samsung Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve — DD62-00136A

    Replacement inlet valve solenoid for Samsung DW80 series dishwashers. Required when 4C/4E persists after cleaning the filter screen and confirming adequate water pressure. Includes mesh filter screen. Check model compatibility before ordering.

    $30–$60

    Buy on Amazon →
  • Samsung Dishwasher Thermistor — DD81-01954A

    NTC temperature sensor for Samsung dishwashers. Reads 4,000–6,000Ω at room temperature. Clips to the tub wall near the heating element. Causes tE error codes when failed. Confirm part number against your model.

    $15–$30

    Buy on Amazon →
  • Samsung Dishwasher Heating Element

    Replacement heater assembly for Samsung dishwashers. Mounts around the tub floor perimeter. Resistance spec: 15–30Ω. Required when HE code persists after thermistor tests good. Model-specific — verify with your DW80 model number.

    $35–$75

    Buy on Amazon →
  • Samsung Dishwasher Door Gasket / Door Seal

    Perimeter door seal for Samsung dishwashers. Cracked or deformed gaskets allow water into the base pan, triggering LC/LE codes. Inspect the full gasket for tears before ordering — replacement is straightforward with no tools required on most DW80 models.

    $20–$45

    Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How do I enter diagnostic mode on a Samsung dishwasher?
On most Samsung DW80 series dishwashers (DW80R9950US, DW80T5040US, DW80M9550US, DW80CG4021SR, DW80B6060UG), press and hold the Start and Hi-Temp buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds. All panel indicator lights will illuminate, then the dishwasher runs a self-test cycle covering water fill, wash motor, heater, drain pump, and sensor checks. Stored fault codes display sequentially after the test. This is the fastest way to confirm which subsystem triggered the code rather than guessing from symptoms alone.
Samsung dishwasher 5C/5E code — filter is clean but it keeps coming back. What else do I check?
If the triple filter is clean and 5C/5E keeps returning, the next check is drain hose height. The hose must loop up to at least 20 inches above floor level before descending to the connection point — this high loop prevents siphoning. Most Samsung installations route the hose under the sink and the loop often drops over time. Use a zip tie or hose bracket to hold the peak at 20+ inches. Also check the drain hose check valve (located at the pump outlet) — a failed check valve lets water back-flow into the tub between cycles. If both are good and you can hear the pump motor running but water won't move, the drain pump impeller or motor has failed.
What is Samsung 7E error code and which models get it?
7E is exclusive to Samsung WaterWall dishwashers — models that use a linear WaterWall reflector bar that travels back and forth along the bottom of the tub instead of rotating spray arms. It is not present on standard Samsung dishwashers. 7E means the WaterWall reflector cannot complete its travel path or the position sensor is not detecting movement. Fix: remove the lower rack and inspect the WaterWall guide rails for food debris, glass, or utensils that have fallen onto the track. Clean the rails thoroughly. The reflector must slide freely from front to back with no resistance. If the rails are clear and 7E persists, the WaterWall motor or position sensor has failed.
Samsung LC code keeps coming back even after drying the base pan. What's leaking?
Recurring LC means there is an active leak refilling the base pan during each cycle. The most common sources on DW80 series dishwashers: (1) Door gasket — inspect the full perimeter, especially the bottom corners where the gasket is prone to pulling away from the channel. (2) Spray arm O-ring — the center hub O-ring on the lower spray arm seals against the wash pump inlet; a cracked O-ring causes a constant drip into the base. (3) Drain pump outlet hose — the short ribbed hose from the pump body to the drain port loosens over time. (4) Fill hose fitting at the inlet valve — confirm the compression fitting is tight. After fixing the source, dry the pan completely and run a short cycle while watching from below with a flashlight.
How do I reset a Samsung dishwasher error code?
To clear most Samsung dishwasher error codes: press and hold the Start button for 3 seconds to cancel the current cycle, then unplug the unit from the wall outlet for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, restore power. Samsung control boards require the full 5-minute power-off to fully reset — a quick breaker flip is often insufficient. The LC code will not clear until the base pan is completely dry, regardless of resets. The 4C and 5C codes will not clear until the underlying supply or drain issue is resolved — a reset alone will not fix a mechanical problem.
Samsung 3C error — is it always the wash motor, or could it be the control board?
3C is most often a physical obstruction in the pump impeller rather than a failed motor. Check the sump for glass, seeds, or bone fragments first — this costs nothing and fixes the majority of 3C codes. If the impeller is clear and spins freely but 3C persists, test the wash motor: unplug the dishwasher and disconnect the motor harness connector. Measure resistance across the motor windings — a functional Samsung circulation pump motor typically reads 4–8Ω. OL = failed motor. If the motor tests good but 3C continues, the motor control circuit on the main board is the next suspect. Run the diagnostic mode sequence first to confirm the code is real and not a transient sensor fault.