KitchenAid Dishwasher Error Codes — 1-1, 2-1, 3-1, 4-1, 6-1, 6-2, 7-1, 8-1, 9-1 Complete Guide

Common Symptoms

• Numeric X-X error code on KitchenAid display — cycle stops or will not start
• 6-1 or 6-2 — dishwasher hums but no water fills; cycle counts down without washing
• 3-1 — dishes are cold and wet after a full heated dry cycle
• 2-1 or 2-2 — dishwasher starts then stops early; no spray pressure detected
• 9-1 — dishwasher will not run at all; ECM motor drive fault
• 7-1 — wash cycle completes but spray coverage is uneven between rack zones
• 1-1 — dishwasher behaves erratically; relay latched in wrong position

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   1-1 — Control Board Relay Stuck Closed

   1-1 indicates a relay on the main control board is stuck in the closed (energized) position when it should be open. This can cause a component — typically the heater or a motor — to run continuously or at wrong times. Causes: a power surge fusing the relay contacts, a board manufacturing defect, or component age. A 5-minute full power-off reset sometimes clears a transient relay latch. Persistent 1-1 after reset means the relay contacts are physically welded closed and the control board must be replaced.

2. 2

   2-1 / 2-2 — Wash Motor Fault

   2-1 and 2-2 both indicate a wash motor (circulation pump) fault — 2-1 is a general motor fault and 2-2 is a motor speed sensor error. KitchenAid dishwashers use an ECM (electronically commutated motor) for circulation on premium models. Causes: a foreign object (glass shard, seed, bone chip) lodged in the pump impeller and stalling the motor; a failed pump motor winding; or a failed motor speed sensor. Remove the lower rack, lower spray arm, and filter assembly and inspect the sump for debris before condemning the motor. On KDTM604KPS and KDTM404KPS, the circulation pump motor is accessed from below after pulling the unit out of the cabinet.

3. 3

   3-1 — Heating Element Open Circuit

   3-1 means the control board sent current to the heating element but detected no load — the element is open (failed). The spec for a functional KitchenAid dishwasher heating element is 14–22Ω. A reading of OL confirms the element is open and must be replaced. Access the heating element terminals by removing the lower spray arm, then the filter assembly, then the pump cover (4–6 screws in the sump floor). The element leads are at the back of the tub base — disconnect both and test resistance. On KDFE104HPS (front-control models), access is the same but the pump cover may require a tool to unclip the locking tabs.

4. 4

   4-1 — NTC Thermistor Out of Range

   4-1 indicates the NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistor is reading outside the expected resistance range — the board cannot determine water temperature. The thermistor is part WPW10503278 on most KitchenAid models in the KDTM/KDTE/KDFE series and mounts in the sump housing near the heating element. At room temperature (77°F / 25°C), a functional thermistor reads approximately 16,000Ω (16kΩ). OL = open/failed; near 0Ω = shorted/failed. 4-1 can also be caused by a corroded thermistor harness connector — clean the pins and reseat before replacing the sensor.

5. 5

   6-1 — Water Inlet Valve Fault

   6-1 means the inlet valve is not operating correctly — the control board sent the open command but fill did not begin within the expected time. Test the inlet valve solenoid: unplug the dishwasher and disconnect the valve's 2-terminal harness connector. Set the multimeter to resistance mode and measure across both terminals — a functional KitchenAid inlet valve solenoid typically reads 500–1,500Ω. OL = failed solenoid, replace the valve. If resistance is in spec but 6-1 persists, also check the water supply pressure (minimum 20 PSI required) and clean the mesh filter screen inside the inlet port.

6. 6

   6-2 — Fill Time Exceeded

   6-2 means the dishwasher began to fill but did not reach the target water level within the allotted time — a slow-fill fault rather than a no-fill fault. Primary causes: partially closed water supply shutoff valve under the sink; clogged inlet valve screen (scale buildup restricting flow rate); low house water pressure; or the flood float switch in the base pan is partially triggered and limiting fill volume. 6-2 is distinguished from 6-1 in that the valve opened and some water entered — the issue is flow rate rather than valve operation. Clean the inlet screen and verify full supply valve opening before replacing parts.

7. 7

   7-1 — Diverter Valve Fault

   7-1 means the diverter valve motor is not rotating to the expected position to switch water flow between the lower rack spray zone and the upper rack spray zone. Causes: food debris or scale jamming the diverter disc in the sump; a failed diverter motor winding; or a failed position sensor on the diverter assembly. Access the diverter by removing the filter assembly — the diverter disc is visible in the sump floor. Manual rotation should be smooth. If the disc is clear and free but 7-1 persists, test the diverter motor harness continuity: a functional motor should not read OL.

8. 8

   8-1 — OWI Soil Sensor Fault

   8-1 indicates the OWI (optical water indicator) soil sensor is reading outside the expected range or communication with the control board has failed. The OWI sensor uses an infrared optical path through the wash water to measure turbidity and adjust cycle length. Causes: the optical lens is coated with grease or hard water scale blocking the IR beam; the sensor mounting has shifted; or the sensor has failed. Cleaning the OWI sensor lens with a damp cloth resolves most 8-1 codes. The sensor is clipped to the sump housing wall and is accessible after filter removal.

9. 9

   9-1 — ECM Motor Drive Fault

   9-1 indicates the ECM (electronically commutated motor) drive circuit has faulted. KitchenAid premium models (KDTM604KPS, KDPM604KPS) use an ECM wash motor rather than a conventional induction motor. The ECM drive contains a capacitor that retains a dangerous charge after the unit is unplugged — this capacitor must be discharged before any motor service work. 9-1 is caused by an ECM drive board failure, a motor winding fault, or a hall-effect sensor failure. After a mandatory power-off and capacitor discharge, measure motor winding resistance across each phase pair — all readings should be equal and low (typically 3–8Ω). Unequal or OL readings indicate motor winding failure.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1Enter diagnostic mode and document fault codes: close the dishwasher door. Press Heated Dry, Normal, Heated Dry, Normal in rapid succession within 6 seconds. All panel indicator lights will flash simultaneously to confirm diagnostic mode entry. The unit runs a self-test cycling through fill, wash motor, heater, and drain — then displays stored fault codes. Some KDTE334GPS and KDTM404KPS models use a different sequence: check the tech sheet (pull the lower rack and look for a folded sheet on the tub floor, same location as Whirlpool). Photograph the displayed codes before proceeding.
2. 2Test the heating element for 3-1: unplug the dishwasher. Remove the lower rack and lower spray arm (counterclockwise to unscrew). Remove the filter assembly (quarter-turn counterclockwise to lift out). Locate the pump cover in the sump floor — typically 4–6 Phillips screws. Remove the pump cover to expose the heating element terminals at the tub base. Disconnect both terminal leads. Set the multimeter to resistance mode and measure across the terminals. Spec: 14–22Ω. OL = open/failed element, replace. Values below 5Ω = shorted element, also replace. If element tests in spec but 3-1 persists, test the thermistor next.
3. 3Test the thermistor for 4-1: with the dishwasher unplugged and the pump cover removed (from the previous step), locate the thermistor — part WPW10503278 — clipped to the sump housing near the element. Disconnect the 2-wire connector. Measure resistance at room temperature: spec approximately 16,000Ω (16kΩ) at 77°F. OL = open/failed. Well below 10kΩ at room temp = suspect sensor even without a full OL reading. Confirm the sensor is NTC by applying a warm cloth — resistance should drop as temperature increases. Sensor with no temperature response is failed.

1. 4Diagnose 6-1 / 6-2 — inlet valve solenoid test and flood float check: turn off the water supply valve under the sink. Unplug the dishwasher. Disconnect the fill hose from the inlet valve at the back of the unit. Inside the inlet port, locate the mesh filter screen — extract it with needle-nose pliers and rinse under running water. Reconnect the hose. Next, disconnect the 2-terminal valve harness connector and measure resistance across both terminals — spec 500–1,500Ω. OL = failed solenoid, replace the valve. For 6-2 (slow fill), also remove the toe kick panel and check the flood float switch in the base pan: the float should move freely up and down with no debris or scale buildup restricting it.
2. 5Clean the affinity filter and OWI sensor for 8-1 and performance maintenance: remove the lower rack. The KitchenAid affinity filter is at the center of the tub floor — a cylindrical upper filter with a flat mesh screen beneath. Twist the cylinder counterclockwise and lift out; then lift the flat screen. Rinse both under warm water with a soft brush. After reinstalling filters, locate the OWI sensor clipped to the sump housing wall. Wipe the optical window with a damp cloth to remove grease and scale film. A cotton swab cleans the recessed lens. Reinstall the filter assembly and test — most 8-1 codes clear after sensor cleaning.
3. 6Inspect the diverter for 7-1: with the filter assembly removed, look into the sump with a flashlight. The diverter disc is the flat circular component at the sump floor that rotates between positions to direct water. Check for food debris, seeds, or glass shards preventing rotation. Manually rotate the disc with a finger — it should turn smoothly with light resistance. If obstructed, use needle-nose pliers to remove debris. If the disc moves freely but 7-1 persists, unplug the dishwasher and disconnect the diverter motor harness. Test motor winding continuity — OL = failed motor, replace the diverter motor assembly.
4. 79-1 ECM motor fault — capacitor discharge procedure before service: unplug the dishwasher and wait 5 minutes minimum. On ECM-equipped KitchenAid models (KDTM604KPS, KDPM604KPS), the ECM drive board contains a capacitor that retains charge. To discharge: locate the drive board (accessible after pulling the unit and removing the lower access panel). Using insulated screwdrivers, place a 1,000Ω, 10W resistor or a capacitor discharge tool across the capacitor terminals and hold for 30 seconds. Do not short-circuit the capacitor directly — use a resistor. After discharge, confirm voltage across the capacitor terminals reads 0V with a multimeter before touching any motor wiring. Measure motor phase windings — all pairs should read equal resistance (typically 3–8Ω). Unequal or OL = failed motor.

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• KitchenAid Dishwasher Heating Element

  Replacement heating element for KitchenAid dishwashers. Resistance spec: 14–22Ω. Accessed by removing the lower spray arm, filter assembly, and pump cover. Required for persistent 3-1 heating fault codes. Verify model compatibility for KDTM604KPS, KDTE334GPS, KDFE104HPS.

  $40–$80

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• KitchenAid Dishwasher NTC Thermistor — WPW10503278

  NTC temperature sensor for KitchenAid dishwashers. Reads approximately 16,000Ω at room temperature (77°F). Clips to the sump housing near the heating element. Causes 4-1 codes when open, shorted, or significantly out of spec. Shared platform part with Whirlpool dishwashers.

  $15–$35

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• KitchenAid Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve

  Replacement inlet valve solenoid assembly for KitchenAid dishwashers. 2-terminal connector — test solenoid resistance before replacing (spec: 500–1,500Ω). Fixes 6-1 no-fill codes and 6-2 slow-fill codes when screen cleaning doesn't resolve the issue. Includes integrated mesh filter screen.

  $30–$65

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• KitchenAid Dishwasher Diverter Motor Assembly

  Replacement diverter disc motor for KitchenAid dishwashers. Drives the diverter disc to alternate water spray between lower and upper rack zones. Required when 7-1 diverter fault persists after clearing the sump of debris. Model-specific — verify before ordering.

  $40–$90

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• KitchenAid Dishwasher Affinity Filter Assembly

  Complete filter assembly (cylindrical + flat mesh screen) for KitchenAid dishwashers. Clean monthly to maintain wash performance and prevent 8-1 OWI sensor errors. The cylindrical filter lifts out with a quarter-turn counterclockwise — same as Whirlpool but the filter housing access may differ on KDFE104HPS front-control models.

  $15–$40

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Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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