Kenmore Refrigerator Not Cooling — Complete Diagnostic Guide

Common Symptoms

• Fresh-food compartment is warm or above 40°F
• Freezer is cold but refrigerator section is not cooling
• Both freezer and refrigerator are warm
• Compressor runs but refrigerator isn't cold
• Compressor doesn't seem to run at all
• Frost buildup on the freezer rear wall (partial cooling)
• Refrigerator making a clicking noise every few minutes

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   Dirty Condenser Coils (Most Common Non-Mechanical Cause)

   Condenser coils release heat from the refrigerant to the room. When coated with dust, pet hair, and lint, they can't shed heat efficiently — the compressor runs hot, cycling pressure rises, and cooling capacity drops. On most Kenmore 106.xxx and 795.xxx side-by-side and French door models, the condenser coils are located at the rear bottom of the refrigerator, accessible behind the lower front grille or by pulling the unit away from the wall. Top-freezer Kenmore models have coils on the rear panel. Cleaning condenser coils is free and takes 15 minutes — it should be done every 6–12 months.

2. 2

   Evaporator Fan Not Running

   The evaporator fan circulates cold air from the freezer evaporator coils into both the freezer and fresh-food sections. When it stops, the freezer may stay cold (with frost building on the rear wall) while the fresh-food section warms. The most common cause on LG-based Kenmore 795.xxx models is ice accumulation around the fan blade from a defrost system fault (Er dH, see error code guide). On Whirlpool 106.xxx models, the evaporator fan motor winding can fail. Test: open the freezer while the compressor is running — you should hear the fan running. If it's silent, remove the freezer rear panel to inspect.

3. 3

   Condenser Fan Not Running

   The condenser fan is located near the compressor at the bottom rear of the refrigerator. It cools the compressor and pulls air across the condenser coils. When it fails, the compressor overheats and the high-pressure safety switch trips, shutting the compressor off — resulting in a warm refrigerator. To test: pull the refrigerator away from the wall, remove the rear access panel, and observe whether the condenser fan runs when the compressor starts. The fan should run simultaneously with the compressor.

4. 4

   Failed Start Relay (Clicking Compressor)

   The start relay is a small plug-on component attached to the compressor that provides the starting boost the compressor motor needs. When the relay fails, the compressor tries to start, draws a large current spike, clicks off, and tries again every 2–5 minutes — this is the distinctive clicking pattern that means start relay failure. On Kenmore 106.xxx (Whirlpool) models, the relay is part number WPW10189190 or equivalent. On 795.xxx (LG) models, a different relay is used. Shake the relay — a rattling sound confirms the internal resistor has broken and the relay needs replacement. This is a $10–$25 part and a 5-minute repair.

5. 5

   Defrost System Failure (Frost-Blocked Evaporator)

   If the defrost heater, defrost thermostat, or defrost timer/control fails, frost accumulates on the evaporator coils unchecked. Over days or weeks, the coils become completely blocked with ice, airflow stops, and the refrigerator warms. This is identifiable by heavy frost on the freezer rear wall and a refrigerator that initially cools somewhat but gets progressively warmer. The defrost heater (test resistance: 20–80Ω), defrost thermostat (should show continuity when cold, open when hot), and defrost control (timer or adaptive control board) are all serviceable parts.

6. 6

   Compressor or Sealed System Failure

   If all fans run, coils are clean, the start relay is good, and the defrost system is functional but the refrigerator still won't cool, the fault is in the sealed refrigerant system — compressor failure, refrigerant leak, or a failed compressor start capacitor. Compressor start capacitors are testable with a multimeter (capacitance mode, spec usually printed on the cap). A failed capacitor ($15–$25) can mimic compressor failure. Actual compressor replacement or refrigerant service requires EPA 608 certification and professional equipment.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1Check condenser coil location and condition: on Kenmore bottom-freezer and French door models (both 106.xxx and 795.xxx), pull the refrigerator forward and look at the bottom rear or remove the front kickplate grille to access the coils underneath. On top-freezer models, the coils are on the back. Use a vacuum with brush attachment or a coil brush to clean all dust and lint from between the fins. If the coils were severely clogged, allow 2–4 hours of operation after cleaning to evaluate improvement.
2. 2Test the evaporator fan: put your ear to the freezer with the doors closed — the evaporator fan should be running whenever the compressor runs. To confirm, open the freezer door slowly. The fan should stop when the door opens (most models have a door switch that cuts fan power when the door is open). If the fan doesn't run at all, remove the freezer rear panel (typically 4–6 Phillips screws plus possibly a plastic trim piece) and visually inspect the fan blade for ice blockage. If blocked, manually defrost the freezer section.
3. 3Test the condenser fan: pull the refrigerator away from the wall and remove the lower rear access panel (usually 4 Phillips screws). Locate the condenser fan next to the compressor. With the refrigerator running in a warm state (not cooling), the compressor should be running and the condenser fan should be spinning. If the fan motor doesn't run, test it: disconnect the fan wires and apply 120V (Whirlpool 106.xxx) or 12V DC (LG 795.xxx) directly — LG-platform fans run on DC and require the control board to supply correct voltage. On LG models, if the fan tests good but doesn't run, check the wiring harness and control board output.

1. 4Test the start relay (Whirlpool 106.xxx, 795.xxx): unplug the refrigerator. Pull the cardboard or metal access panel off the lower rear. Locate the compressor — a large black dome shape. The start relay is a small 1–2 inch device that plugs onto the side of the compressor. Pull it straight off. Shake it — any rattling sound confirms the internal resistor has shattered and the relay is failed. Even if it doesn't rattle, take the relay to a parts counter: the replacement is WPW10189190 for Whirlpool-platform 106.xxx models and a model-specific relay for LG 795.xxx models. Cost: $10–$25.
2. 5Check the defrost system: plug in the refrigerator and let it run for 12–24 hours. If the freezer develops heavy frost on the rear wall, the defrost system has failed. To manually force a defrost cycle on LG-based 795.xxx Kenmore models, press and hold the Refrigerator and Ice Plus buttons for 3 seconds — the display shows 'FF' and the defrost heater activates. On Whirlpool 106.xxx models, locate the defrost timer (older models have a mechanical timer, usually in the fresh-food section ceiling); turn it clockwise with a screwdriver until you hear a click — this forces the heater on. If the frost melts, the heater works and the timer/control is the likely fault.
3. 6Test the defrost heater and thermostat: unplug the refrigerator. Remove the freezer rear panel to expose the evaporator coils. Locate the defrost heater (a coiled or straight resistance element threaded through the coil fins) and the defrost thermostat (a small metal can clipped to the coil, usually near the top). Disconnect each and test with a multimeter. Defrost heater: should read 20–80Ω resistance when cold. Defrost thermostat: should show continuity (0Ω) when below ~45°F (at room temperature it may be open — this is normal if it has a high cutoff temp; check the label on the thermostat for the opening spec).
4. 7Test the compressor start capacitor: with the refrigerator unplugged and the rear panel removed, locate the start capacitor (a small cylindrical component, sometimes black, near the compressor on applicable models). Disconnect it. Set your multimeter to capacitance mode (μF). Touch probes to the capacitor terminals — the reading should be within 10% of the rated capacitance printed on the cap. A reading of 0 or significantly low confirms a failed capacitor. Replacement cost: $15–$25. Note: not all Kenmore models have a separate start capacitor — on models without one, capacitance is built into the relay.

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• Kenmore / Whirlpool Compressor Start Relay — WPW10189190

  Replacement start relay for Kenmore refrigerators built on the Whirlpool platform (106.xxx series). Fixes the clicking compressor symptom where the compressor tries to start and shuts off every 2–5 minutes. Shake the old relay — a rattle confirms failure. Part: WPW10189190 or equivalent. Verify with your full model number.

  $10–$25

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• Kenmore / LG Evaporator Fan Motor

  Replacement evaporator fan motor for LG-built Kenmore refrigerators (795.xxx series). Fixes warm fresh-food section when the freezer is still cold. Common LG part: EAU61524007 or equivalent. Match to your full model number for correct fan speed and connector type.

  $25–$55

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• Kenmore Defrost Heater and Thermostat Kit

  Replacement defrost heater assembly and thermostat for Kenmore refrigerators (106.xxx and 795.xxx). Fixes progressive frost buildup and cooling loss from a failed defrost cycle. Includes heater element and defrost thermostat. Match to your full model number — wattage and connector type vary.

  $25–$65

  Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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