Kenmore Dishwasher Error Codes: Full Diagnosis Guide (665 & 587 Series)

Kenmore does not manufacture its own dishwashers — every Kenmore dishwasher is built by either Whirlpool or Bosch, and the error code system depends entirely on which manufacturer built your unit. The quickest way to determine the manufacturer is the first three digits of your model number: 665.xxx series dishwashers are Whirlpool-built and use Whirlpool's F-code error system (F1E1, F2E2, F6E4, F8E4). 587.xxx series dishwashers are Bosch-built and use Bosch's E-code system (E15, E24, E25, E22, E09). This guide covers both platforms, identifies the correct error for your model, and explains what each code means and how to resolve it. Model callouts: 665.13743K605, 665.12783K310, 587.14579.

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Common Symptoms

  • F1E1 displayed — water inlet valve fault (Whirlpool 665.xxx series)
  • F2E2 displayed — drain fault, pump or drain hose issue (Whirlpool 665.xxx series)
  • F6E4 displayed — water supply problem, insufficient fill (Whirlpool 665.xxx series)
  • F8E4 displayed — long drain cycle, drain taking too long (Whirlpool 665.xxx series)
  • E15 displayed — water in base pan / anti-flood float triggered (Bosch 587.xxx series)
  • E24 or E25 displayed — drain fault or blocked drain (Bosch 587.xxx series)
  • E22 displayed — filter blocked, pump restricted (Bosch 587.xxx series)
  • E09 displayed — heating element fault (Bosch 587.xxx series)
  • Dishwasher stops mid-cycle and flashes a code
  • Unit will not start and displays a fault code immediately

Most Likely Causes

  1. 1

    How to Identify Your Kenmore's Manufacturer

    Open the door and find the model number label on the door edge or inner door panel. The first three digits are the manufacturer code: 665 = Whirlpool-built (use the F-code section below). 587 = Bosch-built (use the E-code section below). Common Kenmore models: 665.13743K605 and 665.12783K310 are Whirlpool-based; 587.14579 is Bosch-based. If your model starts with a different prefix, check Kenmore's website or the Sears PartsDirect cross-reference for the OEM source.

  2. 2

    F1E1 — Inlet Valve Fault (Whirlpool 665.xxx)

    The control board detected that the water inlet valve did not open or that no water entered the tub within the expected time window. This can result from a failed inlet valve solenoid, low household water pressure (below 20 PSI), a kinked or closed supply line, or a failed water level pressure sensor. The inlet valve solenoid should read approximately 500–1500 ohms — an open (OL) reading indicates a failed valve that must be replaced. Part: W10327249 or W11175771 for Whirlpool-based 665.xxx models.

  3. 3

    F2E2 — Drain Fault (Whirlpool 665.xxx)

    The control board did not detect that the tub drained within the expected time during the drain phase. Common causes: clogged drain pump impeller (food particles, broken glass), kinked drain hose, blocked air gap, garbage disposal knockout plug still installed, or a failed drain pump motor. The drain pump (W11084656 on many 665.xxx models) should read approximately 15–30 ohms — open resistance means a failed pump motor. An F2E2 that clears after manually removing debris from the sump usually indicates a blocked impeller rather than a failed motor.

  4. 4

    F6E4 — Water Supply Issue (Whirlpool 665.xxx)

    The dishwasher could not fill with water properly or sensed a water supply interruption. Causes include a closed supply valve under the sink, a kinked or pinched inlet hose, a partially blocked inlet valve screen (mineral deposits from hard water), or a faulty water level float/pressure switch. Check that the supply valve is fully open and the supply hose has no kinks. Inspect the inlet valve screen by disconnecting the supply hose at the valve — clear blockage with a toothbrush. If flow is adequate and the error persists, test the water level pressure switch.

  5. 5

    F8E4 — Long Drain (Whirlpool 665.xxx)

    The drain cycle ran longer than expected — the pump ran but water did not fully evacuate. This typically indicates a partial drain restriction: a kinked or elevated drain hose, a high loop that is too high (above 32 inches from the floor), a slow-draining garbage disposal, a slow sink drain backup pressure, or a partially clogged drain pump impeller. An F8E4 is less severe than F2E2 — drainage is occurring but slowly. Check the drain hose path and disposal drain connection before replacing the pump.

  6. 6

    E15 — Water in Base Pan (Bosch 587.xxx)

    The anti-flood float sensor in the base of the dishwasher detected water accumulation. This is a safety lockout — the unit will not operate until the base is dry. Causes: door gasket leak, inlet valve dripping when closed (replace valve — part BS-00631200 or equivalent), or a cracked tub joint. To reset: tilt the dishwasher slightly forward (with power disconnected) to drain the base pan through the front opening, then leave unit unplugged for 30–60 minutes to allow residual water to evaporate. Identify and fix the leak source before powering back on.

  7. 7

    E24 / E25 — Drain Fault (Bosch 587.xxx)

    E24 indicates the tub did not drain fully; E25 indicates a blocked drain pump. Both point to the drain path: clogged micro-filter mesh, blocked drain pump impeller (remove the filter, reach into the sump, and rotate the impeller by hand — it should spin freely), kinked drain hose, blocked air gap, or a backed-up sink drain. For 587.14579: the filter assembly is a two-stage system — remove the coarse plate first, then the fine mesh cylinder. Clean both under warm water. Check the pump impeller cavity for debris.

  8. 8

    E22 — Filter Blocked (Bosch 587.xxx)

    The fine mesh filter is clogged to the point that water flow to the pump is restricted. On Bosch-based 587.xxx models including 587.14579, the filter assembly requires manual cleaning every 1–3 months. Remove the bottom rack, turn the cylindrical filter counterclockwise and lift out, remove the flat coarse filter plate beneath it, and scrub both with a soft brush under running water. An E22 that recurs quickly despite regular cleaning may indicate a worn filter mesh that needs replacement.

  9. 9

    E09 — Heating Element Fault (Bosch 587.xxx)

    The heating element circuit failed to reach the target temperature or the NTC temperature sensor did not detect a rise. Causes: failed heating element (should read approximately 20–30 ohms — open resistance means failed), failed NTC temperature sensor (should read approximately 4–6 kΩ at room temperature), or a wiring harness break between the control board and heating element. On 587.14579, the heating element is the circular element at the base of the tub; the NTC sensor is typically clipped to the heating element or mounted nearby in the sump.

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Quick DIY Checks

Safety Warning

Always disconnect the dishwasher from power (unplug or turn off the breaker) before accessing internal components. Dishwashers operate on 120V AC — contact with live terminals can cause serious injury or death.

Caution

Shut off the water supply valve under the sink before disconnecting any water lines. Have towels ready — residual water in the supply hose or drain hose will spill.

Caution

Bosch-based 587.xxx models with E15 (base pan flood): do NOT tilt the unit with power connected. The flood float sensor keeps the pump running — tilting a live unit can cause water contact with electrical components.

  1. 1Step 1 — Identify your manufacturer: open the door and find the model number label. First three digits: 665 = Whirlpool-built, follow F-code steps (F1E1, F2E2, F6E4, F8E4). 587 = Bosch-built, follow E-code steps (E15, E24, E25, E22, E09). Write down your full model number before ordering any parts — Kenmore part numbers differ from generic OEM equivalents.
  2. 2Step 2 — Power reset: disconnect power (flip breaker or unplug) for 60 seconds, then restore. A power reset clears transient fault codes caused by voltage fluctuations or brief sensor errors. If the code does not return after a full cycle, the fault was temporary. If the code returns, proceed with the code-specific diagnosis below.
  3. 3Step 3 — F1E1 / F6E4 (inlet valve / water supply — Whirlpool 665.xxx): confirm the supply shutoff valve under the sink is fully open. Disconnect the supply hose at the back of the dishwasher and check for kinks. Inspect the mesh screen at the inlet valve port — clear mineral blockage with a toothbrush. Set a multimeter to resistance mode and test the inlet valve solenoid terminals: 500–1500Ω = functional; OL = failed solenoid, replace the valve (W10327249 or W11175771 for most 665.xxx models). Also test the door latch microswitch for continuity — no continuity with door closed means the control board cannot initiate fill.

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  1. 4Step 4 — F2E2 / F8E4 (drain fault — Whirlpool 665.xxx): remove the lower rack and unscrew or remove the filter/sump cover. Look for food debris, broken glass, or items caught in the pump impeller. Rotate the impeller gently with your finger — it should turn freely. Inspect the drain hose from the pump to the drain connection: ensure it has a high loop (minimum 20 inches from floor) or an air gap fitting, and confirm it is not kinked. Test the drain pump motor (W11084656): set multimeter to resistance mode on the pump motor terminals — 15–30Ω = functional; OL = failed motor, replace the pump.
  2. 5Step 5 — E15 (water in base pan — Bosch 587.xxx): disconnect power immediately. Tilt the dishwasher forward 45 degrees (with someone supporting it) to allow base pan water to drain toward the front. Wipe out residual water with towels. Leave unplugged 30–60 minutes. Once dry, identify the leak: run water into the empty tub with the door open and observe — check door gasket, inlet valve drip-by, and tub seam. Replace the leaking component before powering the unit.
  3. 6Step 6 — E24 / E25 / E22 (drain or filter fault — Bosch 587.xxx): remove the lower rack. Lift out the coarse filter plate and then the cylindrical fine mesh filter (counterclockwise). Scrub both under warm running water. Reach into the exposed sump cavity and rotate the drain pump impeller by hand — it should turn freely. If impeller is jammed, remove the debris. Check drain hose for kinks and verify the air gap or high loop is unblocked. For E25 (pump impeller jam), manually clearing the debris usually resolves the code without part replacement.
  4. 7Step 7 — E09 (heating element — Bosch 587.xxx): disconnect power. Access the heating element (circular element at the tub base, visible from the interior). Disconnect the element's wire terminals. Set multimeter to resistance: functional element reads 20–30Ω; open (OL) means the element has burned out and must be replaced. Also test the NTC temperature sensor clipped near the element: at room temperature (~70°F), it should read approximately 4–6 kΩ. A reading far outside this range indicates a failed sensor. Wiring harness continuity can be checked by testing resistance end-to-end on each wire from the terminal block to the element.

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Repair vs Replace

✓ Worth Repairing

Most Kenmore dishwasher error codes resolve with cleaning (E22, F2E2 impeller jam, F8E4) or inexpensive part replacement (inlet valve $30–$60, drain pump $40–$80). Repair is almost always cost-effective for units under 10 years old. Consider replacing if the control board has failed (typically $100–$200 for the part alone) and the unit is over 8–10 years old.

Est. Repair Cost

$20–$150 depending on failed component

Est. Replacement Cost

$500–$1,200 for a new dishwasher

Recommended Tools & Parts

  • Water Inlet Valve — W10327249 / W11175771 (Whirlpool 665.xxx)

    Replacement inlet valve for Whirlpool-based Kenmore 665.xxx dishwashers. Resolves F1E1 and F6E4 codes when solenoid reads open on a multimeter. Includes inlet screen.

    $30–$60

    Buy on Amazon →
  • Drain Pump — W11084656 (Whirlpool 665.xxx)

    Replacement drain pump motor assembly for Whirlpool-based Kenmore 665.xxx dishwashers. Resolves F2E2 drain fault when pump motor reads open resistance. Includes pump housing and impeller.

    $40–$80

    Buy on Amazon →
  • Digital Multimeter

    Required for testing inlet valve solenoids (500–1500Ω), drain pump motors (15–30Ω), and heating elements (20–30Ω E09). Essential for accurate component diagnosis.

    $15–$35

    Buy on Amazon →
  • Dishwasher Drain Pump (Bosch 587.xxx compatible)

    Replacement drain pump for Bosch-based Kenmore 587.xxx dishwashers. Use when impeller is broken or motor resistance reads open after clearing debris. Verify model compatibility.

    $35–$70

    Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my Kenmore dishwasher is Whirlpool-made or Bosch-made?
Find the model number label on the door edge or inner door panel. If the model number starts with 665 (e.g., 665.13743K605 or 665.12783K310), your dishwasher is Whirlpool-built and uses F-codes. If it starts with 587 (e.g., 587.14579), it is Bosch-built and uses E-codes. This distinction is critical — Whirlpool and Bosch parts are not interchangeable.
What does Kenmore F2E2 error mean?
F2E2 on a Kenmore 665.xxx (Whirlpool-based) dishwasher means the tub did not drain within the expected time. Start by removing the filter and checking the sump for debris blocking the pump impeller. The impeller should rotate freely by hand. If the impeller is clear and the error persists, test the drain pump motor (W11084656) with a multimeter — 15–30Ω is functional, OL means the motor has failed and needs replacement.
What does Kenmore E24 error mean?
E24 on a Kenmore 587.xxx (Bosch-based) dishwasher means the drain did not complete — water is remaining in the tub. The most common cause is a clogged filter/sump or debris jamming the pump impeller. Remove and clean both filter stages, then manually rotate the impeller in the sump cavity. Also check the drain hose for kinks and confirm the air gap or high loop is clear. E24 usually does not require part replacement — it's typically a cleaning issue.
How do I reset a Kenmore dishwasher error code?
For both Whirlpool-based (665.xxx) and Bosch-based (587.xxx) Kenmore dishwashers: turn off the breaker or unplug the unit for 60 seconds, then restore power. This clears the fault memory. If the code returns after a full cycle, the underlying fault is still present and requires diagnosis and repair.