Kenmore Dishwasher Not Draining: Hose, Pump, Filter & Disposal Fix

Common Symptoms

• Standing water remains at the bottom of the tub after a full cycle
• One to two inches of water visible on the tub floor at cycle end
• F2E2 error code on Kenmore 665.xxx (Whirlpool-based) — drain fault
• E24 or E25 error code on Kenmore 587.xxx (Bosch-based) — drain fault
• Gurgling sounds during drain phase but water does not clear
• Cycle appears to complete normally but tub is not empty
• Drain pump runs continuously with no improvement

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   Incorrect Drain Hose Routing — No High Loop or Air Gap

   The drain hose must be routed with a high loop (hose goes up to at least 20 inches from the floor before connecting to the disposal or drain) or through a dedicated air gap fitting mounted at the sink. Without a high loop, back-pressure or gravity causes water to siphon back into the tub after the pump stops, leaving standing water that was actually drained and then re-entered. On a newly installed dishwasher or after dishwasher relocation, this is the first thing to check — it costs nothing to fix. Verify the hose runs up and over before dropping to the connection point.

2. 2

   Clogged Filter and Sump

   Both Whirlpool-based 665.xxx (665.13743K605) and Bosch-based 587.xxx (587.14579) dishwashers use manual-clean filter systems. When the fine mesh filter and coarse plate are clogged with food debris, water cannot flow freely into the pump. In severe cases, the sump cavity itself accumulates debris that partially blocks the pump impeller intake. This is the most common drain problem on Kenmore dishwashers — often mistaken for a failed pump when it is simply a maintenance issue.

3. 3

   Drain Pump Impeller Jammed or Motor Failed

   After the filter is clear, drain failures point to the pump itself. Broken glass, fruit pits, small bones, or plastic debris can jam the impeller so it cannot rotate. A jammed impeller makes the pump motor run hot and may trigger thermal protection. The impeller is accessible on 665.13743K605 after removing the filter — reach into the sump and manually rotate it. It should turn freely. If the impeller rotates freely but the pump does not run, test the motor: drain pump W11084656 (or equivalent for your specific 665.xxx model) should read 15–30Ω; an open (OL) reading means the motor has failed and the pump assembly must be replaced. On 587.14579 (Bosch), the pump is accessed by removing the filter assembly and the pump cover at the sump base.

4. 4

   Door Latch Interlock Not Triggering Drain

   Kenmore dishwashers use a door latch microswitch as part of the safety interlock. If the latch microswitch does not close properly when the door is fully shut (due to a worn latch, cracked catch, or misaligned door), the control board may not receive the 'door closed' signal and the drain pump cycle may not complete. This is an uncommon cause of drain failure but is worth checking if the pump makes no noise at all during the expected drain phase. Test the latch switch for continuity with the door closed.

5. 5

   Garbage Disposal Knockout Plug Not Removed

   When a new garbage disposal is installed or when a dishwasher drain hose is first connected to a disposal, there is a plastic knockout plug inside the disposal's dishwasher drain inlet that must be physically knocked out. If this plug was never removed, the drain hose appears properly connected but is blocked. This is only relevant when the dishwasher is newly installed or when the garbage disposal was recently replaced. Disconnect the drain hose at the disposal, look inside the drain inlet — if you see a solid plastic disk, use a screwdriver and hammer to break it out, then remove the plastic fragment from inside the disposal chamber.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1Step 1 — Check drain hose routing: pull the dishwasher forward slightly (or look behind the kick panel) and trace the drain hose from the pump outlet on the back of the dishwasher to its connection point at the sink drain or garbage disposal. The hose must form a high loop — going up to at least 20 inches from the floor before dropping down to the connection — or route through an air gap fitting at the sink rim. If the hose runs straight across or at a low angle, re-route it upward using a hose loop bracket (available at hardware stores for under $5) or connect it to the air gap. This single fix resolves a large percentage of 'not draining' complaints on newly installed dishwashers.
2. 2Step 2 — Clean the filter and sump: disconnect power. Remove the lower rack. On 665.13743K605 (Whirlpool 665.xxx): turn the cylindrical filter counterclockwise 1/4 turn and lift out, remove the flat coarse mesh plate beneath, and rinse both under warm water with a soft brush. Inspect the sump cavity for glass fragments, food debris, or items that could block the pump intake — remove all debris. On 587.14579 (Bosch 587.xxx): turn the cylindrical filter counterclockwise and remove, lift out the coarse mesh plate, and clean both the same way. Check the sump cavity for obstructions before reinstalling the filter.
3. 3Step 3 — Test and clear the drain pump impeller: after cleaning the filter and sump on 665.13743K605, reach into the now-accessible pump impeller area at the sump center. Manually rotate the impeller with your fingers — it should turn freely with slight resistance. If it is locked solid, look for debris (glass shard, bone fragment, plastic cap) jammed against the impeller vanes. Remove it with needle-nose pliers. Do not force the impeller — broken impeller vanes require pump replacement. On 587.14579, access the pump impeller by removing the filter assembly and the pump cover (held by a quarter-turn or screws); rotate the impeller manually to confirm it is free.

1. 4Step 4 — Test drain pump motor resistance (665.13743K605 with F2E2 error): if the impeller rotates freely but the pump still does not drain (no motor sounds during drain phase), disconnect power and locate the drain pump (W11084656 or equivalent on the bottom of the sump). Disconnect the wiring harness. Set a multimeter to resistance mode and probe the two motor terminals: 15–30Ω = motor is functional, the problem is electrical (wiring or control board). OL (open) = motor has failed, replace the pump assembly. Parts availability: search 'Kenmore 665 dishwasher drain pump' + your model number for the exact compatible unit.
2. 5Step 5 — Check the garbage disposal knockout plug (new installations): if the dishwasher was recently installed or the disposal was just replaced, disconnect the drain hose at the disposal inlet. Look inside the inlet port with a flashlight — a solid plastic disk means the knockout plug was never removed. Use a flathead screwdriver and hammer to punch through the plug, then reach inside the disposal with needle-nose pliers to remove the plastic piece. Reconnect the drain hose and run a drain cycle.
3. 6Step 6 — Test door latch interlock: close the dishwasher door firmly. Start a quick rinse cycle and listen during the drain phase — you should hear the pump motor engage (a low hum or buzzing sound). If no pump sound at all, the door latch microswitch may not be closing the circuit. Open the door, inspect the latch mechanism for cracks or misalignment. Set a multimeter to continuity mode and test the latch microswitch terminals with the door latch manually engaged — you should hear a beep. No continuity means the switch has failed; replacement latch assemblies are model-specific and typically $15–$35.

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• Drain Pump — W11084656 (Whirlpool 665.xxx)

  Replacement drain pump motor assembly for Whirlpool-based Kenmore 665.xxx dishwashers including 665.13743K605. Resolves F2E2 drain fault when motor resistance reads OL. Verify compatibility with your specific model number.

  $40–$80

  Buy on Amazon →

• Door Latch Assembly (model-specific)

  Replacement door latch and microswitch assembly for Kenmore dishwashers. Required when latch reads no continuity with door closed. Model-specific — include full model number when ordering.

  $15–$35

  Buy on Amazon →

• Digital Multimeter

  Required for testing drain pump motor resistance (15–30Ω functional, OL = failed) and door latch switch continuity. Essential diagnostic tool.

  $15–$35

  Buy on Amazon →

• Drain Hose High Loop Bracket

  Plastic bracket that secures the drain hose in a high loop position under the sink, preventing back-siphoning of water into the tub. Installs in minutes — resolves drain issue on improperly installed units.

  $3–$8

  Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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