Maytag Refrigerator Freezer Not Freezing

Common Symptoms

• Freezer temperature above 10°F — food is soft or thawing
• Ice cream is soft or melted
• Frost buildup on the back interior wall of the freezer (defrost failure)
• Freezer is warm but the refrigerator section seems normal
• Compressor is running continuously but freezer stays warm
• No frost anywhere in the freezer — compressor may not be running

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   Temperature Set Too Warm

   The freezer temperature should be set to 0°F (-18°C) for safe food storage and reliable ice maker operation. Settings above 10°F prevent the ice maker from cycling and begin to compromise frozen food quality. Maytag models with digital controls can drift from their set point — check the actual temperature with a standalone thermometer rather than relying on the display. On older models with dial controls, the dial may have been accidentally bumped to a warmer setting.

2. 2

   Door Gasket Failing — Warm Air Infiltration

   A worn, compressed, or torn door gasket on the freezer door allows warm, humid air to enter the freezer continuously. This infiltration forces the compressor to run almost constantly, and despite continuous running the freezer may still struggle to maintain 0°F in warm weather. Warm air infiltration also accelerates frost accumulation on the evaporator coil, which can lead to secondary evaporator fan blockage. Test the gasket by closing the freezer door on a dollar bill — you should feel significant resistance pulling the bill out. No resistance at any point around the perimeter = gasket replacement needed.

3. 3

   Evaporator Fan Not Running

   The evaporator fan circulates cold air from the evaporator coil throughout both the freezer and fresh food compartments. On Maytag refrigerators, the evaporator fan is located in the back of the freezer compartment behind a panel. If the fan motor fails, cold air is not circulated — the evaporator coil gets very cold locally but the rest of the freezer stays warm. A characteristic sign: the back panel of the freezer is extremely cold or frosted, but the rest of the freezer is warm. The evaporator fan is also paused when the freezer door is open — the door switch controls this circuit. A failed door switch stuck in the 'open' position will disable the fan.

4. 4

   Defrost Heater Burned Out — Frost Blocking Evaporator

   Maytag refrigerators run an automatic defrost cycle every 6–8 hours to melt frost accumulation on the evaporator coil. The defrost heater (a glass or ceramic tubular element near the evaporator) heats the coil enough to melt frost, which then drains out via the defrost drain. When the heater fails, frost accumulates over days and weeks until the evaporator coil is completely blocked in ice — at which point no air flows through the coil at all, the fan cannot pull air through the ice wall, and the freezer warms up despite the compressor running. Symptom: a thick wall of ice visible when the freezer back panel is removed.

5. 5

   Defrost Thermostat Open — WP2188874

   The defrost thermostat (Maytag part WP2188874) is a thermal fuse that monitors evaporator coil temperature during the defrost cycle. It closes the heater circuit when the coil drops below approximately -10°F and opens the circuit when the coil reaches approximately 50°F — preventing the heater from running too long and melting plastic components. A defrost thermostat that fails 'open' permanently breaks the heater circuit — even if the heater is functional, it will never receive power. Diagnosis requires testing the thermostat resistance when cold: at freezer temperature (-0°F) a functional thermostat reads continuity; OL = failed (open). The thermostat must be tested while cold — at room temperature it always reads OL (open), which is normal.

6. 6

   Compressor Start Relay Failure — WPW10189703

   The start relay (Maytag part WPW10189703, also written W10189703) is a small plug-in component on the side of the compressor that provides the initial starting current. A failed start relay causes the compressor to click on and off every few minutes without starting — this is the classic 'relay rattle test': shake the relay; if you hear a rattle inside, the internal resistor has broken and the relay should be replaced. A compressor that never starts will allow the entire refrigerator and freezer to warm to room temperature. Symptom: no running sound from the compressor, unit is completely warm, no cooling in either compartment.

7. 7

   Condenser Coils Dirty — Reduced Cooling Efficiency

   The condenser coils (located either under the refrigerator behind the base grille, or at the back) dissipate heat removed from the interior. Heavily dust-clogged coils cannot release heat efficiently — the compressor must work harder and the refrigerant stays warmer, reducing the system's ability to maintain freezer temperatures. Dirty condenser coils typically manifest as a gradual loss of cooling performance rather than sudden failure, and are more pronounced in homes with pets or high dust environments. Cleaning the coils is a free fix if done with an existing vacuum — a coil brush ($10) makes the job easier.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1Check and correct the temperature set point: on Maytag models with digital controls, the freezer should be set to 0°F (-18°C). Press the freezer temperature button to cycle through settings until 0°F is selected. Place a standalone digital thermometer in the center of the freezer (not on the door shelf) and check after 4–6 hours — the display set point and actual compartment temperature can differ by up to 10°F if the evaporator coil is partially frosted or condenser coils are dirty. If the actual temperature reads within 3–5°F of the set point and is below 10°F, the system is functioning — allow 24 hours for temperature to fully stabilize after any recent door openings or restocking.
2. 2Test the door gasket with the dollar bill test: close the freezer door on a dollar bill so approximately half the bill is inside and half is outside. Pull the bill with steady tension — you should feel significant resistance throughout the full gasket perimeter. Repeat at 6-inch intervals around the entire door. Any location where the bill slides out easily indicates a failed gasket section. Also visually inspect the gasket for tears, cracks, or flat/compressed sections — particularly at the corners where gaskets age fastest. A replacement Maytag freezer door gasket costs $30–$80 (search by full model number) and is installed by pulling the old gasket off the door liner and pressing the new one into the retaining channel.
3. 3Listen for the evaporator fan and check the door switch: with the freezer door closed, stand near the freezer and listen — you should hear a hum from the evaporator fan motor running inside the back panel. No fan sound while the compressor is running indicates a failed fan motor or a stuck door switch. Open the freezer door and manually press the door switch plunger (the button in the door frame). With the switch pressed, you should hear the evaporator fan spin up immediately. If the fan runs only with the switch manually held: the switch is failing mechanically. If the fan does not run even with the switch pressed: the fan motor has failed. Evaporator fan motors are approximately $20–$50.

1. 4Inspect the evaporator coil for heavy frost or ice block: unplug the refrigerator. Remove all items from the freezer and remove the back interior panel (4–8 Phillips screws). Examine the evaporator coil — in normal operation it should have light frost or no visible frost after a recent defrost cycle. A coil completely encased in ice (an ice block several inches thick) indicates defrost system failure. To restore cooling immediately: with the refrigerator unplugged, leave the freezer door open for 24–48 hours to thaw the ice block. Once thawed, test the defrost components before reassembly to prevent recurrence.
2. 5Test the defrost thermostat (WP2188874) for continuity when cold — this must be done while the thermostat is at freezer temperature: at room temperature it reads OL (open), which is its normal resting state. With the evaporator coil at freezer temperature (refrigerator running for at least 2 hours), access the thermostat (clipped to the evaporator coil), disconnect its wiring connector, and immediately test resistance with a multimeter. At 0°F the thermostat should read near-zero ohms (continuity closed). OL while cold = failed thermostat (stuck open), replace the WP2188874 (approximately $15–$25). If the thermostat reads continuity when cold, it is functional — the fault is the defrost heater or defrost control.
3. 6Test the defrost heater for continuity: with the evaporator coil exposed and the refrigerator unplugged, locate the defrost heater — a glass or ceramic tube running through or beneath the evaporator coil fins. Disconnect the heater wiring connectors. Set a multimeter to resistance mode and probe both heater terminals. A functional heater reads approximately 20–100 ohms depending on wattage. OL (open circuit) = burned-out heater, replace it. If the heater tests good, the defrost thermostat WP2188874 is the more likely culprit. Replacement defrost heaters for Maytag refrigerators are typically $20–$45.
4. 7Perform the start relay rattle test (WPW10189703): unplug the refrigerator. Pull the unit away from the wall and access the compressor compartment at the lower rear. Locate the start relay — a small rectangular or cylindrical plug-in component on the side of the compressor. Grip the relay firmly and pull it straight off the compressor terminals (no tools required). Shake the relay next to your ear. If you hear a rattle or loose clacking sound inside, the internal resistor has broken and the relay WPW10189703 has failed. A functional relay should feel solid and silent. The relay costs approximately $10–$25 and is a direct plug-in replacement — no wiring required.
5. 8Clean the condenser coils: unplug the refrigerator. Remove the base grille (snaps off or has 2 screws). On most Maytag models, the condenser coils are a black metal grid mounted horizontally under the refrigerator toward the front. Use a vacuum cleaner with a crevice tool to remove accumulated dust and pet hair from between the coil fins. A long refrigerator coil cleaning brush ($10) lets you reach further under the unit and between fins more thoroughly. After cleaning, reinstall the grille and plug the refrigerator back in. Allow 4–6 hours for the compartment to recover to target temperature. Perform coil cleaning every 6–12 months.

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• Compressor Start Relay — WPW10189703

  OEM replacement start relay for Maytag refrigerator compressors. Direct plug-in replacement — no tools or wiring required. Test by shaking the existing relay: a rattle = broken internal resistor, replace immediately. Approximately $10–$25.

  $10–$25

  Buy on Amazon →

• Defrost Thermostat — WP2188874

  OEM replacement defrost thermostat for Maytag refrigerators. Clips to the evaporator coil. Must be tested while cold (at 0°F it should read continuity; OL = failed). Approximately $15–$25.

  $15–$25

  Buy on Amazon →

• Defrost Heater Assembly (model-specific)

  Replacement defrost heater element for Maytag refrigerators. Test with multimeter (20–100 ohms = functional; OL = replace). Search by model number for correct wattage and length.

  $20–$45

  Buy on Amazon →

• Evaporator Fan Motor (model-specific)

  Replacement evaporator fan motor for Maytag refrigerators. Replace if the motor does not run when the door switch is pressed manually. Search by model number — motor specs vary by platform.

  $20–$50

  Buy on Amazon →

• Refrigerator Coil Cleaning Brush

  Long-handled condenser coil cleaning brush for under-refrigerator coils. Reaches between coil fins and under the unit more effectively than a vacuum crevice tool alone. Recommended tool for annual condenser maintenance.

  $8–$15

  Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

Related Repairs