Maytag Refrigerator Ice Maker Not Working

Common Symptoms

• Ice maker not producing any ice cubes
• Ice maker arm is in the up (OFF) position
• No water filling into the ice maker tray
• Ice cubes are stuck together in a solid clump (jammed)
• Ice maker motor hums but does not complete a harvest cycle
• Small or hollow ice cubes (low water pressure or partially clogged filter)

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   Shutoff Arm in the UP (OFF) Position — Most Common Cause

   The ice maker shutoff arm is a plastic lever on the side or front of the ice maker assembly. When raised to the UP position, it signals the ice maker module to stop production — this is the intended behavior when the bin is full. However, the arm is easy to knock upward accidentally when placing items in the freezer. A single large item or bag of food leaning against the arm will disable ice production until the arm is moved back down. On Maytag MFI and MFT series French door models, the arm is a metal wire on the right side of the ice maker; on MSS side-by-side models it's a plastic paddle. Check this first — it takes 5 seconds.

2. 2

   Freezer Temperature Above 10°F — Ice Maker Won't Cycle

   Maytag ice makers require the freezer temperature to be at or below 10°F to begin a harvest cycle, and 0°F for reliable production. Above 10°F, the ice maker module's internal thermistor prevents the harvest motor from running to protect against incomplete freezing. This is a protection feature — the ice maker will not run even if all other components are functional. Causes of a warm freezer include dirty condenser coils, a failed evaporator fan motor, a frost-blocked evap coil (Adaptive Defrost failure), or a recently loaded large quantity of warm food. Check freezer temperature with a standalone thermometer before diagnosing ice maker components.

3. 3

   Water Inlet Valve Failure — No Water Fill (WPW10498990)

   The water inlet valve (Maytag OEM part WPW10498990, also sold as W10498990) is a dual-solenoid valve located at the lower rear of the refrigerator. One solenoid controls the dispenser water flow and the other fills the ice maker. A failed ice maker solenoid will fill the water dispenser normally but deliver no water to the ice maker tray. Test the solenoid resistance with a multimeter — a functional solenoid reads approximately 200–500 ohms; OL (open circuit) = failed solenoid, replace the valve. Also verify household water pressure is 20–120 PSI — below 20 PSI, the valve's anti-siphon device prevents fill.

4. 4

   Frozen or Kinked Water Supply Line

   The small plastic water supply line running from the household water valve to the back of the refrigerator can freeze inside the freezer compartment or kink at the refrigerator connection. A frozen fill tube is common in units where the freezer temperature is set very low or where the refrigerator is positioned close to a cold exterior wall. Symptom: the water dispenser works but ice production stopped suddenly. Inspect the fill tube (the small tube entering the top of the ice maker) for ice blockage — a hair dryer on low heat applied 6 inches from the tube will thaw it in a few minutes. Check the supply line at the back of the refrigerator for kinks.

5. 5

   Ice Maker Assembly Failure — W10190961

   The W10190961 ice maker assembly includes the harvest motor, timing cam, ejector blades, and module electronics. After verifying temperature, water supply, and shutoff arm position, a failed ice maker module is the likely cause of 'not making ice.' Common failure modes: failed harvest motor (no movement during test cycle), failed module electronics (no response to test button), or cracked ejector arm (ice jams at the tray). Run the manual test cycle first — if there is no motor response at all, the module has failed. If the motor runs but ice jams at the ejector, inspect the ejector arm and cam for cracks or foreign objects.

6. 6

   Door Switch Failure — Ice Maker Disabled When Door Opens

   The freezer door switch serves a dual purpose: it turns off the interior light when the door closes AND it pauses the ice maker during door-open events to prevent water spills. A failed door switch stuck in the 'open' position tells the ice maker module the door is always open — permanently preventing harvest cycles. Test the door switch by opening the freezer and pressing the switch plunger manually — you should hear it click and the interior light should turn off. No click or light stays on = failed switch. Multimeter test: switch should read continuity in the pressed (door closed) position.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1Check the shutoff arm position first — this is the single most common cause and takes 5 seconds: open the freezer and locate the ice maker shutoff arm (a wire lever or plastic paddle on the side of the ice maker assembly). The arm must be in the DOWN position for ice production. If it is in the UP position, lower it by hand. On Maytag MFI2570FEZ and MFT2772HEZ French door models, the arm is a metal wire hook on the right side of the ice maker visible when you open the freezer door. On MSS26C6MFZ side-by-side models, it is a plastic arm on the front of the ice maker visible from the left side. After moving the arm to the down position, allow 24 hours before expecting ice — the first cycle fills the tray, freezes, then harvests, which takes 90–120 minutes per cycle.
2. 2Verify freezer temperature — use a standalone thermometer, not the display: place a digital freezer thermometer in the center of the freezer compartment (not in the door shelf). Close the door and wait 2–3 hours, then read the temperature. The display set point and the actual compartment temperature can differ by 5–10°F if the evaporator coil is partially frosted or the condenser coils are dirty. The ice maker requires 10°F or below to begin a cycle and performs best at 0°F. If the actual temperature reads above 10°F, resolve the cooling issue first — see /fixes/maytag-refrigerator-not-cooling. The ice maker will not produce ice in a warm freezer regardless of any other fix.
3. 3Run the ice maker manual test cycle to determine if the module and motor function: locate the test button on the W10190961 ice maker module — it is a small recessed button on the front face of the module (sometimes inside a small hole, requiring a toothpick or pin to press). Press and hold for 3 seconds. Within 10–15 seconds you should hear the harvest motor start and the ice ejector rotate. Watch the full cycle: the ejector turns, pushes any ice or water in the tray out, then the cycle completes and the tray re-fills with water (you should hear the water valve click and water entering the tray). If the motor does not start at all: check for 120VAC at the ice maker harness connector with the unit powered — no voltage indicates a board or door switch issue. If voltage is present but motor is silent: the ice maker module W10190961 has failed.

1. 4Test the water inlet valve (WPW10498990) for ice maker solenoid failure: unplug the refrigerator. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall to access the rear panel. The water inlet valve is at the lower back corner — it has a water supply line entering from the wall and tubing exiting to the ice maker and dispenser. Disconnect the wiring connector for the ice maker solenoid (typically labeled or the smaller of the two solenoid coils). Test resistance with a multimeter between the two solenoid terminals — a good solenoid reads approximately 200–500 ohms. OL (open circuit, no reading) = failed solenoid, the valve must be replaced (WPW10498990 is the correct replacement for most Maytag French door and side-by-side models, approximately $35–$60). Also verify the water supply shutoff valve behind the refrigerator is fully open.
2. 5Inspect the ice maker fill tube for freezing: with the freezer open, locate the small plastic tube at the top of the ice maker assembly — this is the fill tube that delivers water into the tray. If this tube has ice inside or around its tip, it is frozen. Common cause: the fill tube is positioned slightly low so residual water freezes in the tube between fill cycles. Thaw the tube with a hair dryer on low heat held 6 inches away — do not use high heat and do not direct heat at plastic components. After thawing, verify the tube tip is positioned correctly above the center of the ice maker tray. If freezing recurs within a week, the ice maker fill tube heater assembly (WP67006194, approximately $15–$25) may need to be replaced.
3. 6Test the freezer door switch for failure in the 'open' position: with the freezer door open, locate the door switch — it is a small plastic button mounted in the door jamb, typically at the top corner. Press the switch plunger with your finger and hold it down (simulating a closed door). The interior freezer light should turn off when the switch is pressed. Also, if the ice maker was not running its test cycle in step 3 with the door open, the ice maker should now attempt a cycle with the switch held closed. If the interior light does NOT turn off when the switch is pressed: the switch has failed. Use a multimeter to confirm — with the switch pressed, it should read continuity; released (door open), it should read OL. Door switches are inexpensive ($8–$20) and straightforward to replace.
4. 7Replace the ice maker assembly (W10190961) if all previous checks pass: if the freezer is at 0°F, the shutoff arm is down, the water inlet valve tests good (200–500 ohms), the fill tube is clear, and the door switch is functional — but the ice maker still will not run a test cycle with voltage confirmed at the harness — the W10190961 module has failed. Replacement procedure: unplug the refrigerator, remove the ice maker mounting screws (typically 2–3 screws), disconnect the wiring harness and water fill tube, install the new assembly in reverse order. Run the test cycle on the new module to confirm water fill and harvest. The W10190961 assembly is available for approximately $50–$100 and is the same unit used across Whirlpool, Maytag, and KitchenAid refrigerators on the shared platform.
5. 8Address ice maker jams separately — if the motor runs but ice won't eject: a jammed ice maker (motor hums or runs but ice won't come out) is different from 'not making ice.' Common jam causes: (1) Ice cubes clumped together in the bin — use a plastic spatula to break up fused cubes and clear the bin; this happens when the ice sits unused for extended periods; (2) Cracked ejector arm on the W10190961 assembly — inspect the plastic ejector blade for cracks or chips; a broken ejector cannot push ice out of the tray; (3) Overfilled bin — if the bin is full the shutoff arm may be sitting on ice rather than in the 'down on air' position; clear the bin completely and reset the arm; (4) Ice in the chute — on French door models with an in-door dispenser, ice can freeze together in the chute above the dispenser flap; use a plastic utensil to clear it, never a metal tool.

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• Maytag / Whirlpool Ice Maker Assembly — W10190961

  OEM ice maker module assembly for Maytag MFI, MFT, MSS, and MFF series refrigerators and compatible Whirlpool platform models. Includes harvest motor, ejector, timing cam, and module electronics. Run the test cycle on the existing module before ordering to confirm module failure versus temperature or water supply issues.

  $50–$100

  Buy on Amazon →

• Maytag / Whirlpool Water Inlet Valve — WPW10498990

  Dual-solenoid water inlet valve for Maytag refrigerators. Controls both ice maker water fill and dispenser water flow. Test ice maker solenoid resistance (should read 200–500 ohms; OL = failed) before ordering. Replace the entire valve if either solenoid tests open — the solenoids are not individually serviceable.

  $35–$60

  Buy on Amazon →

• Ice Maker Fill Tube Heater Assembly — WP67006194

  Replacement fill tube heater for Maytag and Whirlpool refrigerators. Prevents the ice maker fill tube from freezing between cycles. Required if the fill tube repeatedly freezes within days of thawing. Wraps around the fill tube and is powered from the ice maker harness.

  $15–$30

  Buy on Amazon →

• Refrigerator Freezer Door Switch

  Replacement door switch for Maytag refrigerator freezer compartment. Controls interior light and ice maker pause circuit. Test with multimeter — should read continuity when pressed. Search by model number for correct fitment.

  $8–$20

  Buy on Amazon →

• Digital Thermometer (Freezer)

  Standalone digital refrigerator/freezer thermometer for verifying actual compartment temperature vs. displayed set point. Essential diagnostic tool — a freezer that displays 0°F but actually reads 15°F will never make ice regardless of ice maker component condition.

  $8–$20

  Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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