Hotpoint Refrigerator Not Cooling — HPS15BTNRWW & HTR15ABEWRWW Diagnostic Guide

Common Symptoms

• Refrigerator section is above 40°F even though the compressor sounds like it's running
• Both the fridge and freezer sections feel warm or room-temperature
• Food spoils faster than normal; ice cream melts
• No cold air felt from the vents inside the refrigerator section
• Excessive frost or ice visible on the freezer back wall or evaporator cover
• Refrigerator makes a clicking sound every few minutes and compressor never stays on
• No sound from the compressor at all — completely silent unit

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   Failed Start Relay — WR55X10025 (Most Common for Compressor Won't Run)

   The start relay is a small plug-in component on the side of the compressor that provides the starting boost to get the compressor motor spinning. When the start relay fails, the compressor can't start — you'll hear a click-pause-click pattern every 2–5 minutes as the compressor attempts and fails to start. The classic test: unplug the refrigerator, pull the start relay off the compressor side terminal, and shake it next to your ear. A rattle = internal conductor has broken = replace the relay (WR55X10025 for HPS15BTNRWW and compatible Hotpoint/GE models). Cost: $15–$30. This is one of the highest-value DIY refrigerator repairs possible.

2. 2

   Dirty Condenser Coils

   Hotpoint top-freezer refrigerators (HPS15BTNRWW, HTR15ABEWRWW) have condenser coils located at the bottom rear of the unit, behind a rear grille, or underneath at the base. When these coils are clogged with dust and pet hair, the refrigerant cannot release heat efficiently and the system loses cooling capacity over weeks to months. Cleaning the coils takes 15 minutes and costs nothing — it is the first maintenance step for any Hotpoint refrigerator that's running warm.

3. 3

   Failed Evaporator Fan Motor — WR60X10185

   The evaporator fan circulates cold air from the freezer coils into the refrigerator section. When the fan motor fails, the freezer may remain cold while the fridge warms up — or both sections may warm if airflow is insufficient. Test by opening the freezer door: you should hear the fan running. If it stops when you press the door switch plunger and resumes when you release it, the fan is likely working. If you hear no fan sound even with the plunger held down, the motor has failed. Replacement WR60X10185 for HPS15BTNRWW and compatible GE top-freezer models.

4. 4

   Defrost System Failure — Heater, Thermostat, or Defrost Control

   Hotpoint refrigerators run an automatic defrost cycle every 8–12 hours to melt frost from the evaporator coils. When the defrost heater (WR51X10055), defrost thermostat/limiter (WR50X10068), or defrost timer/control fails, frost builds up on the evaporator coils until airflow is completely blocked. You'll see heavy frost or ice on the freezer back wall or evaporator cover. The quickest test: unplug the refrigerator for 48 hours (with door open and towels on the floor) — if cooling returns after a manual defrost, the defrost system has failed.

5. 5

   Failed Thermistor (Temperature Sensor)

   The thermistor sends temperature readings to the control board. A failed thermistor can cause the board to incorrectly believe the refrigerator is at the right temperature, so it stops calling for cooling. Test with a multimeter set to Ω mode: at 32°F (ice water), a healthy Hotpoint/GE thermistor reads approximately 16,500Ω; at room temperature (68–77°F) it reads approximately 10,000–12,000Ω. A reading significantly outside these ranges means the thermistor is faulty.

6. 6

   Low Refrigerant / Sealed System Leak

   A refrigerant leak causes gradual loss of cooling over weeks or months. Symptoms include frosting only partway up the evaporator coils, ice buildup at the evaporator inlet, or the compressor running continuously but not cooling. Sealed system repairs (leak detection, evacuation, recharge) require an EPA 608-certified technician with recovery equipment. This is the most expensive repair and is worth pursuing only on a refrigerator under 8 years old.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1Check temperature settings and door seals first: confirm the refrigerator control is set to the correct temperature (fresh food: 35–38°F, freezer: 0–5°F) — it's surprisingly common for children or accidental bumps to move the dial. Close the refrigerator door on a dollar bill: if the bill slides out easily with no resistance, the door gasket is not sealing and warm humid air is flooding in. Inspect the gasket for cracks or tears and replace if needed (WR24X10063 for HPS15BTNRWW). Also check that nothing inside is blocking the air vents.
2. 2Clean the condenser coils: unplug the refrigerator. Pull it away from the wall. On most HPS15BTNRWW and HTR15ABEWRWW models, the condenser coils are located on the back of the unit (a large flat coil grid visible from the rear) or at the base beneath a rear-access panel. Use a vacuum with a brush attachment to remove dust and lint from the entire coil surface. On models with bottom-mount coils, remove the bottom grille and vacuum from both sides. Reinstall and plug in — allow 2 hours for the refrigerator to reach temperature.
3. 3Perform the start relay rattle test: unplug the refrigerator and pull it away from the wall. Locate the compressor — a large black cylinder at the bottom rear. The start relay is the small plastic component plugged directly into the side of the compressor terminals (held in place by a spring clip or by friction). Pull it straight off. Hold the relay near your ear and shake it side to side — a distinct rattle means the internal PTC conductor has broken. No rattle = potentially good relay (but not guaranteed). Replace a rattling relay immediately: WR55X10025 ($15–$30). This repair alone restores cooling on a high percentage of Hotpoint and GE refrigerators with a 'both sections warm and clicking' symptom.

1. 4Test the evaporator fan: open the freezer door and push the door switch plunger in with your finger (this simulates a closed door and allows the fan to run). You should hear the evaporator fan motor running. If no fan sound with the plunger held in, the fan motor has likely failed. Confirm by removing the freezer back panel (3–4 screws, panel snaps out) to expose the evaporator coil and fan. Disconnect the fan motor harness and test resistance across the motor terminals with a multimeter — a good WR60X10185 fan motor reads approximately 200–600Ω. OL = motor failed, replace. Cost: $30–$60.
2. 5Perform a manual defrost test: if you see heavy frost or ice on the freezer back wall or behind the evaporator panel, the defrost system has likely failed. Unplug the refrigerator and prop the freezer door open. Place towels on the floor to absorb melt water. Allow 24–48 hours for all ice to fully melt. Plug the refrigerator back in — if cooling returns to normal within 4–6 hours, the defrost system is the confirmed fault. Next, identify which component failed: test the defrost heater (WR51X10055) for continuity, the defrost thermostat/limiter (WR50X10068) for continuity at cold temperature, and check if the defrost timer is advancing (mechanical timer) or inspect the adaptive defrost control board.
3. 6Test the defrost heater and thermostat: with the freezer empty and unplugged, remove the rear evaporator panel to expose the evaporator coil, heater, and thermostat. Disconnect the defrost heater wires and test with a multimeter set to Ω mode — a healthy WR51X10055 heater reads approximately 30–80Ω. OL = open/burned heater, replace. Then test the defrost thermostat/limiter (WR50X10068): at cold temperature (near the evaporator), a good thermostat has continuity. OL when cold = thermostat failed open, replace. Both parts cost $20–$40 each.
4. 7Test the thermistor: locate the thermistor sensor — on HPS15BTNRWW and similar models, it is typically a small probe clipped to the evaporator coil or mounted inside the fresh food section near the air duct. Disconnect the sensor connector. Prepare two small cups: one with ice water (32°F) and one at room temperature (~70°F). Place the thermistor tip in the ice water and test resistance — expect approximately 16,000–17,000Ω. Transfer to room-temperature water — expect approximately 10,000–12,000Ω. A reading far outside these ranges (or OL in either condition) indicates a failed thermistor. Replacement is typically available as part WR55X10025 or a model-specific thermistor kit — confirm with your model number.
5. 8Assess compressor performance: if the start relay is good (no rattle, tests with a multimeter), the coils are clean, and the refrigerator still won't cool, listen to the compressor with the power on. It should run for 10–20 minutes, then cycle off for a period. If the compressor never turns on (completely silent after the relay is verified good), the compressor itself may have failed or the main control board is not sending a start signal. Compressor replacement costs $200–$400+ and should be evaluated against the age and value of the refrigerator. A unit over 10 years old with a failed compressor is typically not worth repairing.

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• Start Relay — WR55X10025

  OEM GE/Hotpoint compressor start relay for HPS15BTNRWW, HTR15ABEWRWW, HTS17BBMRWW, and compatible models. Plug-in component on the compressor side terminals. Replace when the relay rattles when shaken or when the compressor won't start despite verified power to the unit. One of the highest-value DIY refrigerator repairs available.

  $15–$30

  Buy on Amazon →

• Evaporator Fan Motor — WR60X10185

  Replacement evaporator fan motor for Hotpoint and GE top-freezer refrigerators. Located behind the freezer back panel. Replace when the fan doesn't run with the door switch pressed in or when the motor tests OL on resistance check. Restores air circulation between freezer and refrigerator sections.

  $30–$60

  Buy on Amazon →

• Defrost Heater — WR51X10055

  Replacement defrost heater assembly for Hotpoint and GE refrigerators. Replace when heater tests OL on multimeter (should read 30–80Ω) or when manual defrost confirms defrost system failure. Located on the evaporator coil behind the freezer back panel.

  $20–$40

  Buy on Amazon →

• Defrost Thermostat / Limiter — WR50X10068

  Replacement defrost thermostat and thermal limiter for Hotpoint and GE refrigerators. Located on or near the evaporator coil. Replace when thermostat tests OL (open) at cold temperature — should have continuity when cold. Often replaced together with the defrost heater.

  $15–$30

  Buy on Amazon →

• Door Gasket — WR24X10063

  Replacement refrigerator door gasket for Hotpoint top-freezer models including HPS15BTNRWW. Replace when the dollar-bill test shows poor seal (bill slides out without resistance) or when gasket shows cracks, tears, or deformation. A poor seal causes constant warm air infiltration and compressor overload.

  $25–$50

  Buy on Amazon →

• Digital Multimeter

  Required for testing start relay continuity, evaporator fan motor resistance, defrost heater resistance (30–80Ω), defrost thermostat continuity, and thermistor resistance (10,000–17,000Ω depending on temperature). Any multimeter with Ω mode and a continuity beeper works.

  $15–$35

  Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

Related Repairs