Fisher & Paykel Washer Error Codes — 37, 38, 44, 46, 57, 101 Explained

Common Symptoms

• Fault code displayed on control panel LED display (37, 38, 44, 46, 57, or 101)
• Washer lid locked mid-cycle and will not open
• Washer stops mid-cycle and will not resume
• Washer does not fill with water or fills very slowly (code 44)
• Washer does not drain or pump out water (code 46)
• Drum agitates erratically or will not advance to spin (code 37)
• Washer fills with incorrect water level — too high or too low (code 57)
• All previously saved settings have been lost (code 101)

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   Code 37 — Motor Fault

   Fault code 37 means the control board cannot detect the expected rotor position feedback from the SmartDrive motor. The Fisher & Paykel SmartDrive motor is a direct-drive brushless motor with a rotor position sensor — code 37 fires when the sensor signal is absent, intermittent, or out of range. Causes: loose motor wiring harness connector at the control board or motor, failed rotor position sensor, worn or demagnetized motor rotor magnets, or failed motor drive board. Code 37 on new-to-you machines is often a loose connector reseated in minutes.

2. 2

   Code 38 — Lid Switch Fault

   Fault code 38 means the control board cannot confirm the lid is closed and latched. The lid switch assembly sends a signal to the control board when the lid is fully closed — if this signal is missing or intermittent, the washer will not advance past the fill or agitate phase. Causes: lid switch wiring harness disconnected or damaged, failed lid switch assembly (test for continuity with lid closed), lid hinge bent preventing full closure, or foreign object caught in the lid gasket or latch area. Code 38 is one of the most common Fisher & Paykel fault codes and is frequently caused by a $15–$30 lid switch replacement.

3. 3

   Code 44 — Water Valve Fault

   Fault code 44 fires when the washer cannot fill to the required water level within the allotted time — typically 5–8 minutes. Root causes: water supply valves not fully open, kinked or pinched inlet hoses, clogged mesh screen filters inside the inlet valve ports (sediment buildup), household water pressure below 15 PSI, or a failed water inlet valve solenoid. Test the solenoid coils: a healthy Fisher & Paykel water inlet valve solenoid reads 200–500Ω per coil; an open circuit (OL) indicates solenoid failure.

4. 4

   Code 46 — Pump Fault

   Fault code 46 means the drain pump motor is not receiving the expected current or speed feedback — the washer cannot drain within the expected window. Causes: clogged pump filter or impeller (coins, small garment, lint), kinked drain hose, standpipe height out of range (must be 18–96 inches high), pump wiring harness disconnected, or a failed drain pump motor. Test pump motor resistance: a healthy Fisher & Paykel drain pump reads approximately 10–30Ω; OL confirms motor winding failure.

5. 5

   Code 57 — Water Level Sensor Fault

   Fault code 57 indicates the pressure switch (water level sensor) is reading an unexpected pressure signal — the water level is either undetectable, too low, or reporting a level inconsistent with the fill cycle. The Fisher & Paykel SmartDrive uses a pressure-sensing air dome tube connected to the tub base to detect water level. Causes: kinked or disconnected pressure hose between the tub base and the pressure switch, clogged pressure dome (detergent buildup blocking the air port), or a failed pressure switch. Inspect the hose first — it is the most common cause and costs nothing to fix.

6. 6

   Code 101 — EEPROM Memory Fault

   Fault code 101 indicates a corruption or read error in the EEPROM memory on the main control board. The control board stores user settings, cycle history, and calibration data in non-volatile EEPROM memory. Code 101 fires when this data cannot be read or is detected as corrupted — which can be caused by power surges, lightning strikes, or age-related EEPROM cell degradation. A hard power reset will sometimes clear code 101 if the corruption was transient. Persistent code 101 requires control board replacement.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1SAFETY FIRST — Unplug the Fisher & Paykel washer from the wall outlet before accessing any internal component. Wait 2 minutes before touching the motor or control board — capacitors on the SmartDrive motor control board retain a charge briefly after power is removed. For lid-locked fault codes (38, 46), wait 3 minutes after unplugging — the lid lock solenoid will mechanically release once board power is gone. Never force the lid open.
2. 2CODE 37 MOTOR FAULT — With the washer unplugged, tilt the machine back slightly to access the underside (Fisher & Paykel SmartDrive motors are accessed from beneath, not the rear). Locate the motor wiring harness connector on the underside of the tub and firmly reseat it — pull out and push in until you hear a click. Inspect connector pins for corrosion, bent pins, or burn marks. If the connector seats correctly and code 37 returns, the fault is in the rotor position sensor or motor drive board. The rotor position sensor is a 3-wire Hall-effect sensor mounted on the stator — probe each sensor wire for 5V supply, ground, and a pulsed signal output during drum rotation. Sensor replacement costs $20–$50.
3. 3CODE 38 LID SWITCH — Open and firmly close the lid — listen for the audible click of the latch engaging. Inspect the lid hinge area for bending or warping that prevents the lid from fully closing. To test the lid switch: unplug the washer, access the lid switch assembly (typically located under the top panel near the lid hinge area — remove 2–4 screws from the rear of the top panel to lift it). Disconnect the lid switch connector and probe with a multimeter in continuity mode: close the lid manually and probe the switch terminals — a healthy Fisher & Paykel lid switch shows continuity (beep) with the lid closed and no continuity with the lid open. No continuity with the lid closed = failed switch, replace (approximately $15–$35 for WA3927G1, WA8560G1 lid switch assemblies).

1. 4CODE 44 WATER VALVE — Confirm both hot and cold supply valves behind the washer are fully open (counterclockwise until they stop). Check both inlet hoses for kinks or sharp bends. Unscrew the inlet hoses from the back of the washer and inspect the small mesh screen filters inside the inlet ports — clean any clogged screens under running water with a toothbrush. Confirm household water pressure exceeds 15 PSI with a pressure gauge at a nearby tap. If screens are clear and pressure is adequate, test the water inlet valve solenoid coils: disconnect the valve wiring harness and probe each solenoid coil in Ω mode — healthy Fisher & Paykel inlet valve solenoids read approximately 200–500Ω per coil. An OL reading means the coil is open-circuited and the valve assembly must be replaced.
2. 5CODE 46 PUMP FAULT — Locate the drain pump access point at the lower-front of the machine. Place a shallow pan and towels beneath — water will drain when the filter is opened. Unscrew and remove the pump filter, clearing lint, coins, hair ties, and debris from the filter and the pump cavity. Inspect the pump impeller by reaching into the port with a finger — it should rotate freely with no resistance or grinding. Reinstall the filter. Inspect the drain hose at the back: confirm it is not kinked and the standpipe insertion depth is no more than 6 inches. The top of the standpipe must be 18–96 inches high. If code 46 persists, test the pump motor: disconnect the pump wiring harness and probe the terminals with a multimeter in Ω mode — healthy Fisher & Paykel drain pump reads approximately 10–30Ω. OL = burned winding, replace the pump.
3. 6CODE 57 WATER LEVEL SENSOR — Locate the pressure hose that runs from the air dome port at the bottom of the outer tub up to the pressure switch on the side of the tub or control housing. Inspect the hose for kinks, tears, or disconnected ends — reconnect and straighten as needed. Blow gently into the pressure hose end (with it disconnected from the switch) to check for blockages. The air dome port at the tub base can become clogged with detergent residue — use a thin wire or compressed air to clear it. Reattach the hose and run a fill cycle. If code 57 persists with a clear hose, the pressure switch itself has failed — it is a small round component with a single hose barb and electrical terminals. Test the switch by blowing into the hose port: you should hear and feel a click as pressure builds. No click = failed switch, replace.
4. 7CODE 101 EEPROM — Perform a full power reset: unplug the washer for 5 minutes (not just seconds — allow full capacitor discharge). Plug back in and attempt a fresh cycle from the beginning. If code 101 clears, the corruption was transient, likely caused by a brief power interruption or surge. Install a surge protector on the washer outlet to prevent recurrence. If code 101 returns immediately, the EEPROM cells on the main control board are permanently damaged — the control board must be replaced. Fisher & Paykel control boards for the WA3927G1 and WA8560G1 are available as service parts; verify by full model and serial number from the label inside the lid.
5. 8RESET PROCEDURE (ALL CODES) — After correcting the root cause, unplug the washer for 60 seconds, plug back in, and select a new wash cycle from the beginning. The Fisher & Paykel SmartDrive does not have a dedicated fault-clear button sequence — a full power cycle after resolving the underlying cause is the standard reset procedure. If the code reappears within the first 2 minutes of the new cycle, the underlying fault has not been fully resolved. If in doubt, call a Fisher & Paykel authorized service agent — GE Appliances service technicians are qualified to work on Fisher & Paykel machines, as both brands are owned by Haier Group.

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• Fisher & Paykel Lid Switch Assembly

  Replacement lid switch assembly for Fisher & Paykel SmartDrive top-load washers — resolves fault code 38 lid switch fault. Test existing switch continuity before ordering. Verify by full model number (WA3927G1, WA8560G1, WA1068G1, etc.) from the label inside the lid.

  $15–$35

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• Water Inlet Valve Assembly

  Dual-solenoid water inlet valve for Fisher & Paykel top-load washers — resolves fault code 44 water valve fault. Test solenoid coils first (200–500Ω per coil; OL = replace). Includes integrated inlet screen filters. Verify by model number.

  $40–$80

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• Drain Pump Assembly

  Replacement drain pump motor and housing for Fisher & Paykel SmartDrive washers — resolves fault code 46 pump fault. Test existing pump resistance (10–30Ω; OL = replace). Clean pump filter before condemning the motor. Verify by model number.

  $40–$75

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• Pressure Switch (Water Level Sensor)

  Replacement pressure switch for Fisher & Paykel SmartDrive washers — resolves fault code 57 water level sensor fault. Inspect pressure hose and clear air dome port before replacing the switch. Verify by model number.

  $20–$45

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• Main Control Board (PCB)

  Replacement main control board (PCB) for Fisher & Paykel SmartDrive washers — resolves persistent fault code 101 EEPROM fault that does not clear after power reset. Verify by full model AND serial number — Fisher & Paykel has multiple board revisions per model. Boards are model-specific; incorrect boards will not function.

  $80–$200

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• Digital Multimeter

  Required for testing lid switch continuity (code 38), inlet valve solenoid resistance (code 44), drain pump resistance (code 46), and pressure switch operation (code 57). Continuity and Ω resistance modes both needed.

  $15–$35

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Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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