Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer Dishwasher Not Draining — Fault Codes F1, F2, U3, U6, U7

Common Symptoms

• Standing water remaining in the drawer at the end of the cycle
• Fault code displayed on the control panel (F1, F2, U3, U6, or U7)
• Dishwasher drawer will not start or stops mid-cycle with code displayed
• Dishes not clean — low water pressure or insufficient fill during wash cycle (U3, F2)
• Dishes not drying or water not hot enough — heater fault (U6)
• Error code U7 with erratic temperature behavior or temperature sensor warning
• Drawer floods or overflow protection activates — F1 fault code

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   F1 — Flood Fault / Overflow Protection

   Fault code F1 on the Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer means the overflow or flood protection system has been triggered — water has been detected outside the drawer sump or in the base pan beneath the unit. A float switch or optical sensor in the base detects water accumulation and immediately locks the drawer and activates the drain pump. Causes: clogged or kinked drain hose causing water to back up and overflow, failed door seal allowing water to escape the drawer during wash, cracked sump hose, or a faulty water inlet valve that fails open and overfills the drawer. F1 requires finding and stopping the water source before resetting.

2. 2

   F2 — Water Inlet Fault

   Fault code F2 fires when the DishDrawer cannot reach the required water level within the fill timeout window. The fill sensor (water level or flow meter) does not detect the expected volume of water within the allotted time. Causes: water supply valve not fully open, kinked inlet supply hose, clogged inline filter at the inlet valve, low household water pressure (below 15–30 PSI for DishDrawers), or a failed water inlet valve solenoid. Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer models are sensitive to water pressure — they require a minimum static pressure of 15 PSI and prefer 30–80 PSI for proper fill performance.

3. 3

   U3 — Water Pressure / Circulation Fault

   Fault code U3 indicates the circulation pump is not achieving the expected water pressure or flow rate during the wash phase. The control board monitors wash arm pressure via feedback from the circulation pump motor — if pressure is insufficient (clogged spray arms, blocked wash arms, failed circulation pump bearing, or impeller obstruction), U3 fires. Most U3 faults are resolved by clearing the spray arm nozzles and removing any items that may have fallen from the rack and blocked the spray arm rotation.

4. 4

   U6 — Heating Element Fault

   Fault code U6 means the heating element (wash water heater) has failed to raise the water to the target temperature within the expected time window. The DishDrawer's control board monitors water temperature via the thermistor and expects the heater to raise temperature by a set number of degrees per minute. U6 fires when the heater fails to deliver the expected temperature rise. Causes: failed heating element (test resistance: a healthy DishDrawer heating element typically reads 15–40Ω), open-circuit thermistor reporting incorrect temperature, or tripped thermal fuse on the heater circuit.

5. 5

   U7 — Thermistor / Temperature Sensor Fault

   Fault code U7 indicates the NTC thermistor (temperature sensor) is reading outside the expected range — either open circuit (OL), short circuit (near-0Ω), or a value that is physically implausible. The thermistor is a small sensor in the sump area that monitors wash water temperature throughout the cycle. Causes: failed thermistor (open or shorted), thermistor wiring harness disconnected or corroded, or scale buildup on the thermistor tip preventing accurate readings. A healthy Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer thermistor reads approximately 10,000–15,000Ω at room temperature.

6. 6

   Not Draining (No Code) — Blocked Drain Filter or Kinked Drain Hose

   The most common DishDrawer complaint — standing water in the drawer at cycle end — often occurs without any fault code because the blockage develops slowly and the drain pump still attempts to run. The DishDrawer uses a fine mesh filter system in the sump to capture food debris. When this filter becomes clogged, drain pump flow drops below the threshold needed to clear the drawer within the cycle time. Filter cleaning (every 1–3 months) is the most impactful DishDrawer maintenance task and resolves most not-draining calls.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1SAFETY FIRST — Press the Power button and wait for the drawer to fully stop before opening. If the drawer is locked by a fault code, press and hold CANCEL or DELAY START for 3 seconds to attempt a fault clear, then power off completely. Unplug the DishDrawer from the wall outlet before accessing the filter, sump, or any internal component below the drawer tub. The DishDrawer connects to standard 120V/240V power depending on model — check the rating label on the side of the unit.
2. 2FILTER SYSTEM CLEANING (MOST IMPORTANT STEP — ALWAYS START HERE) — Open the DishDrawer fully and remove all racks and the spray arm assembly. On the DD60DCHX9 and DD60DCX9: twist the cylindrical coarse filter counterclockwise to unlock and remove. Lift out the flat fine-mesh filter beneath it. Rinse both filters under running water using a soft brush — remove all food debris, grease, and scale. Inspect the sump cavity beneath the filter location for any hard debris (glass fragments, bones, labels) that may be blocking the pump intake. Reinstall filters in reverse order (flat mesh first, cylindrical on top, twist clockwise to lock). Run a short rinse cycle and check if draining is restored.
3. 3DRAIN HOSE INSPECTION — Pull the DishDrawer out from its cabinetry housing (typically two retaining screws on the inner side rails). Locate the drain hose at the rear of the unit — it connects from the drain pump to the sink drain, garbage disposal, or air gap. Inspect the full hose run for kinks, sharp bends, or compression from adjacent cabinetry. The high-loop or air gap installation is required: the drain hose must loop up to the underside of the counter before dropping to the drain connection — this prevents backflow of drain water into the drawer. On models draining to a garbage disposal, confirm the disposal knockout plug was removed during installation. Run a drain cycle and listen for steady pump operation.

1. 4F1 FLOOD FAULT RESPONSE — If F1 is displayed, the base pan beneath the DishDrawer contains water. Before any reset, pull the unit out and tilt it gently forward — allow the base pan water to drain from the front drain port or blot with towels through the kickplate. Identify the source of the water: inspect the door seal (frame gasket and drawer-face gasket) for tears or compression damage, check all sump hose connections for cracks or loose clamps, and inspect the inlet supply hose. Once the water source is resolved and the base pan is dry, reconnect power and run a short cycle. F1 will not reset while water remains in the base pan — the float switch must be in its resting position.
2. 5F2 INLET FAULT AND WATER PRESSURE CHECK — Verify the water supply shutoff valve under the sink or at the wall is fully open. Inspect the supply hose for kinks. Disconnect the inlet hose from the back of the DishDrawer and inspect the inline mesh screen filter at the inlet port — clean under running water with a toothbrush. Confirm household water pressure is within the Fisher & Paykel recommended range (15–80 PSI) — use a pressure gauge at a nearby tap. If pressure is within range and the screen is clear, the water inlet valve solenoid may have failed. Test the solenoid coil resistance: disconnect the valve wiring harness and probe with a multimeter in Ω mode. A healthy Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer inlet valve solenoid reads approximately 200–500Ω; OL indicates solenoid failure — replace the inlet valve assembly.
3. 6U3 CIRCULATION FAULT — SPRAY ARM AND PUMP CHECK — Remove the lower spray arm (typically a quarter-turn counterclockwise to release from the center post). Inspect all nozzle ports around the spray arm for clogged holes — use a toothpick or thin wire to clear blocked nozzle openings. Rinse the spray arm under running water while spinning to confirm all ports flow freely. Check that no items have fallen from the rack and are lying in the spray arm path — even a utensil lying at the bottom of the drawer can block rotation. Reinstall the spray arm (quarter-turn clockwise) and run a wash cycle. If U3 returns with clear spray arms, the circulation pump impeller may be partially blocked or the pump bearing may be failing — access the pump from beneath the unit (after pulling out) and inspect the impeller for hard debris lodged in the pump body.
4. 7U6 HEATER FAULT — With the DishDrawer unplugged, access the heating element in the sump area (the element runs around the perimeter of the sump on most DishDrawer models). Disconnect the heater wires and probe with a multimeter in Ω resistance mode. A healthy Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer heating element reads approximately 15–40Ω. An open circuit (OL) confirms a burned element — replace. Also check for a thermal cutout (small disc component in series with the element wiring) — test its continuity: OL at room temperature means the cutout has blown and must be replaced. Note: U6 can also be triggered by a faulty thermistor reporting incorrect temperatures — rule out U7 before condemning the heater.
5. 8U7 THERMISTOR FAULT — Locate the thermistor in the sump area — a small cylindrical or bead-style sensor with two wires. Disconnect the thermistor wiring harness and probe with a multimeter in Ω resistance mode. At room temperature (~68°F), a healthy Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer thermistor reads approximately 10,000–15,000Ω. An OL reading (open circuit) or a very low resistance (<500Ω) indicates sensor failure — replace the thermistor. If the thermistor tests within range, inspect the wiring harness for corrosion or broken connections at the connector. Scale deposits on the thermistor tip can also cause erratic readings — run a citric acid descaling cycle (1–2 tablespoons of citric acid powder in an empty drawer on the hottest cycle) and retest after.

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer Drain Pump

  Replacement drain pump assembly for Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer dishwashers — resolves not-draining that persists after filter cleaning. Test existing pump resistance (approximately 10–30Ω; OL = replace). Verify by model number (DD60DCHX9, DD60DCX9, DD24SCTX9, etc.).

  $60–$100

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• Water Inlet Valve

  Replacement water inlet valve for Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer — resolves F2 inlet fault when inlet screen is clean and water pressure is adequate. Test solenoid coil (200–500Ω; OL = replace). Verify by model number.

  $50–$90

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• Heating Element

  Replacement heating element for Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer dishwashers — resolves U6 heater fault when element tests open circuit (OL) on multimeter. Nominal resistance 15–40Ω. Verify by model number.

  $40–$80

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• NTC Thermistor (Temperature Sensor)

  Replacement NTC thermistor for Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer — resolves U7 temperature sensor fault. Healthy resistance approximately 10,000–15,000Ω at room temperature. Clean existing sensor with citric acid descale before replacing. Verify by model.

  $20–$40

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• Door Seal / Drawer Gasket

  Replacement drawer face gasket and inner seal for Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer — resolves water leaks triggering F1 flood fault. Inspect existing gasket for tears, compression damage, or detached sections. Verify by model number and drawer position (single, upper, or lower).

  $30–$65

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• Digital Multimeter

  Required for testing inlet valve solenoid resistance (F2), heating element (U6), thermistor (U7), and drain pump motor. Ω resistance and continuity modes both needed for complete DishDrawer diagnosis.

  $15–$35

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Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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