Amana Washer Not Draining: Pump Filter, Drain Pump & Lid Switch Fix

Common Symptoms

• Standing water remains in the drum after the cycle ends
• Washer stops mid-cycle and displays F9E1 or F2E1 drain error code
• Clothes are soaking wet after a completed cycle
• Gurgling or humming noise from the bottom of the machine but no draining
• Washer starts the drain cycle then stops and displays an error
• Water drains very slowly — cycle takes much longer than normal

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   Clogged Drain Pump Filter (Most Common — Front-Load)

   Amana front-load washers have a coin trap / pump filter at the front-bottom of the cabinet behind a small access panel. Lint, coins, hair ties, and small garment items accumulate here and can fully block water flow. This is the first thing to check — cleaning it is free and takes 10 minutes. Always place towels on the floor before opening the filter cap because trapped water (often 1–2 gallons) will flow out when the cap is loosened.

2. 2

   Failed Drain Pump — Part WPW10730972

   The drain pump motor moves water from the drum through the drain hose. When the pump impeller is broken, the pump motor has burned out, or the pump is jammed with debris that passed the filter, the washer won't drain. A failed pump often makes a loud humming or grinding noise during the drain cycle. Part WPW10730972 is the OEM replacement pump for many Amana and Whirlpool top-load and front-load washers — verify with your model number. Resistance across the pump motor terminals should read approximately 5–10 ohms; OL indicates a burned-out motor winding.

3. 3

   Lid Switch Failure — Part WP3949247 (Top-Load)

   Top-load Amana washers will not spin or drain if the lid switch has failed. The control board receives no lid-closed signal and halts the cycle as a safety measure. The lid switch assembly WP3949247 is located under the main top panel, triggered by a plastic tab on the underside of the lid. Test with a multimeter set to continuity mode: with the lid closed (or the switch actuator manually depressed), the switch should show continuity. No continuity with the actuator depressed = failed switch, replace it.

4. 4

   Door Latch Failure (Front-Load)

   Front-load Amana washers use a door latch assembly with a lock solenoid and a door-closed sensor. If the latch fails to signal the control board that the door is locked, the washer will not run the drain/spin cycle and may display an F5E2 or F5E1 door latch code. Test the door lock solenoid resistance: disconnect wiring, set multimeter to resistance, probe the solenoid terminals — a working solenoid reads approximately 1.0–6.0 kΩ. Open circuit (OL) = failed latch assembly, replace it.

5. 5

   Kinked or Clogged Drain Hose

   The drain hose runs from the pump outlet to the standpipe or utility sink. A kink in the hose (usually behind the washer against the wall) or a partial clog inside the hose will restrict water flow and cause slow draining or no draining. Amana specifies the drain hose outlet must be no higher than 96 inches (8 feet) from the floor. If the hose is inserted too far into the standpipe (more than 4.5 inches), it can create a siphon that continuously drains mid-cycle.

6. 6

   Control Board Fault (Rare)

   If all mechanical components test functional, the main control board may have failed to send the drain signal. Control board failures are rare and expensive — always verify all other components before suspecting the board. Look for burn marks or bulging capacitors on the board as visual indicators of failure. An Amana main control board typically costs $80–$200.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1Step 1 — Power off and prepare the work area: Unplug the washer from the wall outlet or shut off the circuit breaker. If the drum is full of standing water, use a wet/dry vacuum or bucket to remove as much water as possible before accessing the pump filter. Place several large towels on the floor in front of the machine — additional water will flow out during filter access.
2. 2Step 2 — Clean the pump filter (front-load models): Locate the small rectangular access panel at the front-bottom of the cabinet (typically secured by a clip or two screws). Inside you will find a drain hose cap (for emptying residual water) and the round filter cap. First, lower the small drain hose, remove its end cap, and let residual water drain into a shallow pan or towel. Then slowly turn the filter cap counterclockwise — water will continue to trickle out as you unscrew it. Remove the filter completely and clear all lint, coins, hair ties, or debris from the filter and the pump cavity. Rinse the filter under warm water. Reinstall firmly (hand-tight plus one quarter turn). Run a Rinse & Spin cycle to test.
3. 3Step 3 — Inspect the drain hose: Pull the washer away from the wall and inspect the full length of the drain hose from the pump port to the standpipe. Straighten any kinks. Verify the hose outlet sits no higher than 96 inches from the floor. If the hose is inserted into the standpipe, confirm it is inserted no more than 4.5 inches deep — deeper insertion creates a siphon. Disconnect the drain hose at both ends and run water through it to verify it is not clogged internally.

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• Drain Pump — WPW10730972

  OEM replacement drain pump motor assembly for Amana and Whirlpool-platform washers. Resolves no-drain, slow-drain, and F9E1 error when the pump filter is clear. Verify fitment with your full model number.

  $30–$75

  Buy on Amazon →

• Lid Switch Assembly — WP3949247

  Top-load Amana washer lid switch. Prevents the washer from spinning or draining when failed. Tests open (no continuity with actuator depressed) when faulty. Cross-compatible with WP3949238 on some earlier models.

  $15–$30

  Buy on Amazon →

• Door Latch Assembly (Front-Load)

  Replacement door latch and lock assembly for Amana front-load washers. Fixes F5E1/F5E2 latch errors and no-drain conditions caused by the control board not receiving a door-locked confirmation signal.

  $25–$55

  Buy on Amazon →

• Digital Multimeter

  Required for testing pump motor resistance (5–10 Ω range), lid switch continuity, and door latch solenoid resistance (1–6 kΩ range).

  $15–$30

  Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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