Whirlpool Ice Maker Not Working: Step-by-Step Fix

Common Symptoms

• Ice maker has produced no ice for 24+ hours despite freezer at correct temperature
• Wire shutoff arm (bail wire) is in the raised UP position — ice maker is OFF
• Water filter indicator light is red or filter is overdue for replacement
• Water dispenser has low or slow flow — water pressure or filter issue affecting ice maker
• Ice maker test cycle motor turns but no water fills the mold
• Ice maker mold fills with water but ice never ejects — stuck ejector arm or thermostat failure
• Ice cubes clump in bin and block the ejector arm mechanism
• Grinding or clicking from the ice maker during test cycle — jammed ejector arm W10190965

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   Wire Shutoff Arm in UP Position — Ice Maker Switched OFF

   Whirlpool ice makers on WRS325SDHZ, WRS571CIHZ, and WRS588FIHZ side-by-side models use a wire bail arm (shutoff arm) that rises automatically when the ice bin fills to stop production. If the arm is manually raised, bumped up accidentally, or stuck in the up position by a jammed ice clump, the ice maker stops producing ice entirely. The wire arm sits above the ice bin and connects to a shutoff switch inside the ice maker housing. Diagnosis: open the freezer, locate the wire arm above the ice bin — if it is in the UP position with the bin empty or only partially full, push the arm down to the run position and wait 24 hours. This is the single most common cause of Whirlpool ice maker calls and costs nothing to fix.

2. 2

   Clogged Water Filter — Flow Restriction Below Valve Threshold

   Whirlpool recommends replacing the water filter every 6 months or 200 gallons. An overdue filter builds up sediment that restricts water flow — the water inlet valve requires minimum water pressure and flow to open the solenoid valve. When flow drops below this threshold, the ice maker fill valve fails to open during the fill cycle, producing no water in the mold. Symptoms: the ice maker motor runs the test cycle normally (ejector arm rotates), but the water fill phase produces little or no water. Also check for low flow at the water dispenser — slow dispenser flow combined with no ice is a strong indicator of filter restriction. Whirlpool filter part numbers vary by model; check the filter indicator light on the control panel.

3. 3

   Water Inlet Valve W10408179 Failure — Open Circuit Solenoid

   The water inlet valve (W10408179 on WRS325SDHZ, WRF535SWHZ, WRS571CIHZ, WRS588FIHZ, WRB322DMBM) is a dual-solenoid valve with a primary solenoid serving the water dispenser and a secondary solenoid dedicated to the ice maker fill tube. A failed ice maker solenoid produces no water during the ice maker fill cycle while the dispenser may continue to work normally (since the primary solenoid is separate). Test: unplug the refrigerator, access the valve at the rear lower section, disconnect the solenoid connector, and measure resistance — primary solenoid: 200–500Ω; secondary (ice maker) solenoid: 200–500Ω. An open circuit (OL) on either solenoid confirms valve failure. W10408179 is approximately $25–45 and is a standard Whirlpool service part.

4. 4

   Ice Maker Module W10884390 Failure — Motor or Thermostat

   The ice maker module (W10884390 on many WRS/WRF Whirlpool models) contains the motor that drives the ejector blades, the mold thermostat, and the control circuitry that sequences the harvest cycle. When the module fails, the most common mode is the motor failing to run during the test cycle (no ejector arm movement even with water in the mold). The mold thermostat within the module senses when ice in the mold has frozen to the ejection temperature — a failed thermostat prevents the module from initiating the harvest cycle, resulting in water that freezes in the mold but never ejects. The W10884390 module is a complete replacement unit and resolves all internal ice maker component failures.

5. 5

   Ice Mold Thermostat W11338583 Failure

   The ice mold thermostat (W11338583) is a bimetal safety device that clips onto the ice mold heater assembly. Its function is to sense the mold temperature and allow the harvest heater to warm the mold slightly so ice cubes release cleanly from the mold surface. A failed thermostat — one that is open circuit at room temperature — prevents the harvest heater from activating, causing ice to stick permanently in the mold. Test: disconnect the thermostat leads and measure continuity at room temperature — a good thermostat shows continuity (closed) at room temp; an open circuit at room temperature confirms failure. W11338583 is approximately $15–25 and is often a standalone repair without requiring full module replacement.

6. 6

   Stuck Ejector Arm W10190965 — Visual Inspection Before Replacing Module

   The ejector arm (W10190965) is a plastic arm that sweeps ice cubes out of the mold during the harvest cycle. Ice cubes that partially melt and refreeze can bond to the ejector arm or freeze it in position, preventing normal rotation. A stuck ejector arm causes the module motor to stall during the test cycle — often accompanied by a clicking or grinding sound as the motor attempts to overcome resistance. Before condemning the module, visually inspect the ejector arm for ice bonding: remove the ice bin, look at the ice mold, and check if individual cubes are stuck or if the arm itself is frozen in place. Thawing the mold with a warm damp cloth often resolves a stuck arm without any parts replacement.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1Check the wire shutoff arm position: open the freezer and locate the wire bail arm above the ice bin (WRS325SDHZ and WRS571CIHZ side-by-side) or inside the freezer compartment (WRF535SWHZ and WRB322DMBM French door). If the arm is in the UP position, gently push it DOWN to the run position. The arm should stay down when the bin is empty. Also confirm the ice bin is fully seated — a partially inserted bin can hold the arm in the up position. After pushing the arm down, wait 24 hours before evaluating ice production, as the first batch takes 1.5–2 hours per cycle and several cycles may be needed to fill the bin.
2. 2Replace the water filter if overdue: check the filter status indicator on the control panel — a red light or 'Replace Filter' message confirms the filter needs replacement. Even without a warning light, replace the filter if it has been more than 6 months or 200 gallons since the last replacement. Whirlpool filter part numbers include W10295370A (EveryDrop 1), W10413645A (EveryDrop 2), and others depending on your model — check the filter housing or your owner's manual for the correct number. After installing the new filter, flush 4 gallons through the water dispenser to prime the system and remove air from the line before expecting ice production to resume.
3. 3Verify water supply to the refrigerator: pull the refrigerator from the wall and locate the water shut-off valve on the wall behind the unit or under the sink. Confirm it is fully open (handle parallel to the pipe). Check the water supply line for kinks, especially at the back of the refrigerator where the line bends. Run the water dispenser for 10 seconds: the flow should be strong and steady. If the dispenser has weak flow after a new filter is installed, the shut-off valve may be partially closed or the supply line has a kink. Correct the supply issue before testing the ice maker — all other diagnosis is invalid without confirmed adequate water pressure.

1. 4Test the water inlet valve W10408179: unplug the refrigerator. Remove the rear lower kick grille to access the valve. Disconnect the electrical connector from the secondary (ice maker) solenoid — this is the smaller or left solenoid on dual-solenoid valves. Set the multimeter to resistance mode and measure across the terminal pins. Good solenoid: 200–500Ω. Open circuit (OL): solenoid coil is burned out, replace the valve. Also inspect the valve inlet screen for sediment — a blocked screen restricts flow and can produce the same symptom as a failed solenoid. Clean the screen if dirty. W10408179 is approximately $25–45.
2. 5Run the Whirlpool ice maker harvest test cycle: locate the Test button on the ice maker module (usually on the front or underside of the ice maker body — may require removing the ice bin to access). Press and hold the button for 3–5 seconds until the motor engages and the ejector arm begins to rotate. The test cycle proceeds: ejector arm sweeps through the mold, returns to home position, then the fill valve opens and water fills the mold. Listen for water filling (gurgling sound, 2–3 minutes in). Observe: (1) does the ejector arm complete a full rotation without stalling? (2) does water fill the mold? If the arm stalls or grinds, check for a stuck ejector arm. If no water fills after the arm completes its rotation, the inlet valve solenoid or water supply is the issue.
3. 6Check the mold thermostat W11338583 for continuity: if the test cycle completes correctly (arm rotates, water fills) but no ice ejects after 2–3 hours, the mold thermostat may have failed open. Unplug the refrigerator. Locate the thermostat — it clips to the ice mold heater assembly on the underside of the mold. Disconnect the two thermostat leads and set the multimeter to continuity mode. At room temperature, a good thermostat reads continuity (beeps). An open circuit at room temperature means the thermostat has failed and is preventing the harvest heater from activating — the ice remains bonded to the mold surface. W11338583 is approximately $15–25 and can be replaced without replacing the full ice maker module.
4. 7Test the ice mold heater and replace the module W10884390 if needed: the ice mold heater (inside the module) warms the mold surface slightly during harvest so ice releases cleanly. Disconnect the heater leads and measure resistance — a good heater reads 70–90Ω. Open circuit (OL) means the heater is burned out — in this case, the full module W10884390 must be replaced since the heater is not a serviceable individual component. To replace the module: unplug the refrigerator, remove the ice bin, disconnect the wire harness from the module, remove 2–3 mounting screws, swap the new W10884390, reconnect the harness, and reinstall the bin. Run a test cycle immediately to confirm the new module operates correctly.

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• Whirlpool Water Inlet Valve W10408179

  OEM dual-solenoid water inlet valve for Whirlpool refrigerators including WRS325SDHZ, WRF535SWHZ, WRS571CIHZ, WRS588FIHZ, WRB322DMBM. Test primary and secondary solenoids for 200–500Ω each before replacing. Located at rear lower section behind kick grille.

  $25–$45

  Buy on Amazon →

• Whirlpool Ice Maker Module W10884390

  OEM replacement ice maker module for Whirlpool refrigerators. Complete unit includes motor, mold heater, thermostat, and control logic. Replace when motor does not run during test cycle, or mold fills with water but ice never ejects and thermostat tests good. Verify model compatibility.

  $40–$70

  Buy on Amazon →

• Whirlpool Ice Mold Thermostat W11338583

  OEM bimetal thermostat for Whirlpool ice maker mold heater assembly. Tests as closed (continuity) at room temperature. Replace when thermostat reads open circuit at room temp — harvest cycle completes but ice sticks in mold because heater cannot activate.

  $15–$25

  Buy on Amazon →

• Whirlpool Water Filter (EveryDrop — model-specific)

  Replacement water filter for Whirlpool refrigerators. Replace every 6 months or 200 gallons. A clogged filter reduces flow below inlet valve activation threshold. Common numbers: W10295370A (EveryDrop 1), W10413645A (EveryDrop 2) — verify by model number or existing filter label.

  $15–$40

  Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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