Westinghouse Water Heater Leaking

Common Symptoms

• Water puddle under the water heater or on the floor nearby
• Dripping from the T&P valve discharge pipe (gas or electric storage)
• Slow seep from the drain valve at the bottom of the tank
• Moisture around the hot or cold water inlet connections or heat trap nipples
• Water staining around element access panels on electric model
• Condensate water dripping from the drain line on condensing tankless
• Rust-colored water or staining below the tank — possible tank body corrosion
• Wet floor near union fittings on condensing tankless unit

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   T&P Valve Drip (Gas Storage WGRN/WGRD and Electric Storage WECM/WECS)

   The temperature and pressure relief valve drips water when thermal expansion in a closed plumbing system repeatedly lifts the valve seat, or when the valve is more than 6 years old and the spring has fatigued. Test by lifting the test lever briefly — it should open freely and reseat dry. If it continues to drip after testing, replace with a Watts 100XL (3/4 inch, 150 PSI, 210°F rating). For closed plumbing systems (backflow preventer, PRV with check valve), also install a thermal expansion tank to absorb cyclic pressure rise and prevent repeat valve operation.

2. 2

   Drain Valve Drip (Gas and Electric Storage)

   The plastic drain valve at the tank base weeps from the spigot or around the stem after years of mineral deposit and wear on the ball or gate seat. Attempt a full open-and-close cycle to seat the valve — sometimes loose sediment is dislodged. If the weep continues, replace with a Watts 3/4 inch brass full-port ball valve: drain the tank first, remove the old valve with a wrench, wrap the new valve threads with Teflon tape plus pipe dope, and reinstall.

3. 3

   Heat Trap Nipple Seeping (Gas Storage — Top Connections)

   WGRN and WGRD gas storage models use heat trap nipples at the cold water inlet and hot water outlet — short threaded fittings with internal check valves that reduce standby heat loss. These nipples have a plastic or rubber dielectric insert that can crack or corrode over time, causing a seep at the threaded connection to the tank. Replace with Watts LF38 dielectric heat trap nipples: apply Teflon tape plus pipe dope, hand-tighten plus 1–1.5 turns with a wrench (no over-torquing — the tank threads are steel, the nipple is brass/plastic).

4. 4

   Anode Rod Port Leak (Gas Storage — Corro-Protec CP-R)

   The magnesium or aluminum anode rod screwed into the top of WGRN/WGRD models can develop a weep at the threaded port, particularly if the rod has been removed for inspection and the threads were not resealed or if the original rod is heavily depleted. Replace with a Corro-Protec CP-R impressed-current anode, which lasts the life of the tank and eliminates the sulfur-smell byproduct of sacrificial anodes. Apply Teflon tape on the threads and torque to 30–50 ft-lbs.

5. 5

   Tank Body Corrosion (Any Storage Model — Replace)

   If water is seeping from a rust-stained area of the tank body itself — not from a fitting, valve, or port — the glass lining has failed and the steel shell is corroding from the inside. There is no DIY repair for a corroded tank body. Replacement is the only option. On WGRN/WGRD models, check the anode rod condition — a depleted anode accelerates tank body corrosion significantly.

6. 6

   Element Gasket Seeping (Electric Storage — WECM, WECS)

   WECM and WECS electric storage models use screwed-in or bolt-flange heating elements with a rubber gasket that seals against the tank. The gasket ages and hardens, allowing water to seep past the element flange. Repair requires draining the tank: turn off the 240V breaker, shut cold water inlet, attach a garden hose to the drain valve, open a hot tap upstairs to vent the vacuum, and drain. Remove the element using a 1.5-inch element wrench (on screw-in types) or socket set (flange types). Replace with a Camco 02162 kit — includes element, new gasket, and hardware. Never install a new element without replacing the gasket.

7. 7

   Condensate Drain Line (Condensing Tankless — WGRTLP, WGRTNG)

   WGRTLP and WGRTNG condensing tankless units extract so much heat from combustion gases that the flue condenses — producing slightly acidic condensate water. This condensate drains through a PVC drain line routed to a floor drain or condensate neutralizer. A cracked or disconnected condensate hose, a clogged neutralizer, or a missing air gap at the drain connection causes water to appear at the base of the unit. Inspect the full condensate drain path: hose, connections, and neutralizer media. Replace clogged neutralizer media annually in hard water areas.

8. 8

   Inlet/Outlet Union Fitting Leak (Condensing Tankless)

   The WGRTLP and WGRTNG connect to household water supply via union fittings at the cold inlet and hot outlet. These unions have O-ring seals that can harden or displace. Shut the inlet and outlet isolation valves, unscrew the union, inspect and replace the O-ring, apply fresh Teflon tape plus pipe dope on the threaded connection, and reassemble hand-tight plus one full wrench turn. Do not over-torque plastic unions — they crack.

9. 9

   Heat Exchanger Perforation (Condensing Tankless — Error 90 Scale Damage)

   Prolonged Error 90 scale buildup on the WGRTLP/WGRTNG primary heat exchanger causes localized overheating that can perforate the heat exchanger walls, causing water to leak externally or into the combustion chamber. This presents as water dripping from inside the unit casing or visible rust/water staining on the heat exchanger. Descaling cannot repair a perforated heat exchanger — replacement is required. This is the outcome of repeated ignored Error 90 faults without descaling.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1Step 1 — Locate the leak source precisely: Place dry paper towels under all suspect areas (T&P discharge pipe, drain valve, inlet/outlet connections, element panels, base of tank) and check after 30 minutes to identify the exact source. Never assume — multiple sources can coexist.
2. 2Step 2 — T&P valve check: Is water dripping from the T&P valve discharge pipe? Lift the test lever briefly and release — it should open freely and reseat dry. If the valve is more than 6 years old or continues dripping after testing, replace with Watts 100XL. Also install a thermal expansion tank if your plumbing system is closed (has a backflow preventer or PRV with check valve).
3. 3Step 3 — Drain valve check: Is water seeping from the drain valve spigot or stem? Open fully and close to re-seat. If the drip continues, replace with a Watts 3/4-inch brass ball valve: drain the tank, remove old valve, apply Teflon tape plus pipe dope to new valve threads, install.

1. 4Step 4 (Gas storage) — Inspect heat trap nipples and anode rod port: Dry the top connections and check for moisture at the hot and cold nipples. If seeping, replace with Watts LF38 dielectric heat trap nipples. Check the anode rod port (typically a hexagonal plug or rod head at the top of the tank) — if seeping, replace the anode with a Corro-Protec CP-R, applying Teflon tape and torquing to 30–50 ft-lbs.
2. 5Step 5 (Electric storage — WECM/WECS) — Inspect element gaskets: Dry the element access panel areas. Remove upper and lower panels. If water staining is visible around an element flange, the gasket has failed. Turn off the 240V breaker, drain the tank, remove the element with a 1.5-inch element wrench, and install a Camco 02162 kit with the new gasket.
3. 6Step 6 (Condensing tankless) — Inspect condensate drain, unions, and check for Error 90 history: Follow the condensate drain hose from the unit to the drain — check for cracks, kinks, or disconnections. Inspect union fittings at cold inlet and hot outlet for moisture. Check the unit's error history for Error 90 (scale) codes — if Error 90 has been displaying unaddressed, the heat exchanger may be perforated and will require professional inspection.
4. 7Step 7 — Tank body check: Run a dry hand along the tank body surface. Any rust-stained wet area on the tank body itself (not at a fitting or valve) indicates internal corrosion and tank failure. The unit must be replaced — there is no repair for a corroded tank.

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• Watts 100XL T&P Relief Valve (3/4 inch, 150 PSI, 210°F)

  Standard replacement T&P valve for Westinghouse WGRN, WGRD, WECM, and WECS storage water heaters. Replace if the valve is more than 6 years old or continues dripping after the test lever is operated. Apply Teflon tape to threads.

  $15–$30

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• Watts 3/4-Inch Brass Full-Port Ball Valve (Drain Valve Replacement)

  Brass replacement for the factory plastic drain valve on WGRN, WGRD, WECM, and WECS storage models. Full-port ball valve provides a positive shutoff and better flow for tank draining.

  $10–$20

  Buy on Amazon →

• Watts LF38 Dielectric Heat Trap Nipples

  Lead-free dielectric heat trap nipples for WGRN and WGRD gas storage top connections. Replace when seeping at the hot or cold inlet fittings. Apply Teflon tape and pipe dope; hand-tighten plus 1–1.5 turns only.

  $10–$20

  Buy on Amazon →

• Corro-Protec CP-R Impressed Current Anode Rod

  Powered anode rod that provides permanent cathodic protection for WGRN and WGRD gas storage models without the sulfur smell of sacrificial magnesium anodes. Install when replacing a leaking anode rod port or when the sacrificial anode is depleted. Torque to 30–50 ft-lbs with Teflon tape on threads.

  $50–$80

  Buy on Amazon →

• Camco 02162 Electric Water Heater Element Kit

  Replacement heating element with new gasket and hardware for WECM and WECS electric storage models. The gasket is critical — never reinstall an element with an old hardened gasket. Drain the tank fully before element removal.

  $20–$40

  Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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