Samsung Washer 4E Error Code — Water Supply Fix

The Samsung 4E error (also shown as 4C on some models) means the washer detected no water entering the drum during the fill phase. Before replacing any parts, check the obvious: the water supply valves, inlet hose condition, and the small screens inside the inlet valve — they clog with sediment and are a very common cause of this error.

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Common Symptoms

  • 4E or 4C error code on the display
  • Washer starts but drum doesn't fill with water
  • Cycle stops within the first few minutes
  • No sound of water flowing when a cycle starts
  • Partial fill followed by an error

Most Likely Causes

  1. 1

    Water Supply Valves Closed or Partially Open

    The two valves behind the washer (hot and cold) must be fully open. A partially closed valve reduces flow below what the washer expects and triggers 4E. This is the first and most common cause — check before anything else.

  2. 2

    Clogged Inlet Screen Filters

    Where the inlet hoses connect to the back of the washer, small mesh screens catch sediment. These screens can clog over months or years, severely restricting water flow. They're easy to clean with a toothbrush — no parts replacement needed.

  3. 3

    Kinked or Pinched Inlet Hose

    If the washer was recently moved or the hoses are pressed against the wall, a kink in the hot or cold water hose will restrict flow. Pull the machine forward and inspect the full length of both hoses.

  4. 4

    Low Water Pressure

    Samsung washers require a minimum of 20 PSI (50 PSI ideal) to fill correctly. If your home has low water pressure or the washer is at the end of a long supply line, flow may be insufficient. Test by running the kitchen or bathroom faucet while the washer tries to fill.

  5. 5

    Faulty Inlet Valve

    The water inlet valve contains solenoids that open when commanded by the control board. A failed solenoid will keep the valve closed even when energized. Test with a multimeter — each solenoid should read 100–400 ohms.

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Quick DIY Checks

Caution

Turn off both water supply valves before disconnecting any hoses. Always unplug the washer before removing panels or testing internal components with a multimeter.

  1. 1Turn both supply valves (behind the washer) fully counterclockwise to ensure they're completely open. Even a quarter-turn closed can reduce flow enough to trigger 4E. Reset the washer and try a new cycle.
  2. 2Turn off both supply valves and disconnect the inlet hoses from the back of the washer. Inside each hose connection port on the washer, you'll see small mesh screens. Remove them carefully with needle-nose pliers, rinse under running water, and scrub gently with an old toothbrush. Reinstall and reconnect the hoses.
  3. 3Inspect both inlet hoses along their full length for kinks, tight bends, or areas where the hose is compressed against the wall or floor. Straighten any kinks — replace the hose if it's kinked so sharply the inner wall is creased.

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  1. 4Test water pressure: disconnect the cold water hose at the back of the washer, hold it over a bucket, and turn on the cold water supply valve. Time how long it takes to fill a 1-gallon container — it should fill in under 15 seconds. Slow fill indicates a supply pressure or valve problem, not a washer fault.
  2. 5If all the above check out, test the inlet valve solenoids with a multimeter set to ohms. Disconnect the washer, pull it forward, and remove the rear access panel. Disconnect the wiring connectors from the inlet valve and test each solenoid — target is 100–400 ohms. A reading of 0 (short) or infinite (open) means the valve needs replacement.

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Repair vs Replace

✓ Worth Repairing

A 4E error is almost always a maintenance fix — cleaning inlet screens and fully opening the supply valves costs nothing. Even if the inlet valve has failed, replacement parts cost $30–$70 and the repair is straightforward. There's no reason to replace the washer for a 4E error.

Est. Repair Cost

$0 (valve/screen cleaning); $30–$70 (inlet valve replacement DIY)

Est. Replacement Cost

$700–$1,400 for a new Samsung washer

Recommended Tools & Parts

  • Samsung Washer Water Inlet Valve

    Dual-solenoid or triple-solenoid water inlet valve for Samsung washers. Check your model number. Includes hot, cold, and sometimes warm solenoid ports.

    $30–$70

    Buy on Amazon →
  • Inlet Hose Screen Filter Set

    Replacement mesh screens for washer inlet hose connections. Install these if existing screens are torn or corroded beyond cleaning.

    $5–$12

    Buy on Amazon →
  • Stainless Steel Braided Inlet Hoses

    High-burst-pressure stainless braided hoses for washing machine connections. Safer and more durable than rubber hoses — replace if your existing hoses are over 5 years old.

    $15–$35

    Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between Samsung 4E and 4C error codes?
They're the same error — 4E is the older display format and 4C is used on newer Samsung models. Both mean the washer isn't detecting adequate water flow during the fill phase. The troubleshooting steps are identical.
Can a frozen water supply line cause a 4E error?
Yes. In cold climates, water supply lines to the washer can freeze if the laundry room is unheated. If you get a 4E error in winter and the hoses feel rigid or very cold, the supply line may be frozen. Warm the area with a space heater (not a torch) and allow the pipes to thaw before running the washer.
My Samsung washer shows 4E only on hot wash cycles — why?
A 4E error on hot cycles only (but not cold cycles) almost always means the hot water inlet screen is clogged or the hot water supply valve is partially closed. Inspect the hot-side screen filter and ensure the hot water valve is fully open. It could also mean the hot water solenoid in the inlet valve has failed.