Refrigerator Making Clicking Noise

Common Symptoms

• Clicking sound every 3–5 minutes, often from the back bottom of the refrigerator
• Refrigerator not cooling as well as usual
• Compressor humming briefly then clicking and stopping
• Clicking noise from inside the freezer section
• Ice maker making clicking or grinding sounds during a cycle
• Clicking that stops when ice maker arm is raised

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   Failing Compressor Start Relay (Most Common)

   The start relay is a small electrical component — about the size of a large marble — that plugs into the side of the compressor at the back of the refrigerator. It provides a starting boost of power to get the compressor motor spinning. When it fails, the compressor attempts to start, can't, and trips the overload protector — producing the characteristic click-hum-click cycle every few minutes. Diagnosis is simple: pull the relay off the compressor, shake it near your ear. A rattle means it's failed. A burned smell confirms it. Replace for $10–20. Common parts: W10613606 (Whirlpool/Maytag), 5304491452 (Frigidaire), DA35-00101K (Samsung), WR55X10025 (GE).

2. 2

   Overload Protector Tripping

   The overload protector is a thermal/current protection device also mounted on the compressor. If the compressor draws too much current (often due to a bad start relay, worn compressor windings, or high ambient temperature), the overload trips and cuts power with a click. The compressor cools, the overload resets, and the cycle repeats. If replacing the start relay doesn't stop the clicking, the overload protector itself ($10–25) may need replacement — or the compressor is failing.

3. 3

   Ice Maker Cycling

   During an ice-making cycle, the ice maker motor advances through several positions, sometimes producing clicking or ratcheting sounds. This is normal operation. If the ice maker arm (the wire sensor arm) is stuck in the down (on) position but the ice bin is full, the ice maker will keep cycling and clicking. Lift the arm to the up (off) position to test — if clicking stops, the ice maker is normal and just needs the bin emptied.

4. 4

   Condenser Fan Hitting Debris

   The condenser fan at the back-bottom of the refrigerator cools the compressor and condenser coils. A piece of debris — a twist tie, paper, or hardened pet hair mat — can get caught in the fan blade, causing a rhythmic clicking or tapping as the blade strikes it. Locate the fan behind the kick plate or rear access panel. Clear any obstructions.

5. 5

   Evaporator Fan Hitting Ice Buildup

   If ice has built up around the evaporator fan blades inside the freezer, the spinning blades scrape the ice and produce a loud clicking or scraping noise. This is a sign of defrost system failure — ice is building up when it should be melting. Manually defrost the unit (unplug 24–48 hours) and check whether the defrost heater or thermostat needs replacement.

6. 6

   Defrost Timer Clicking

   Older refrigerators (pre-2000) use a mechanical defrost timer — a small motorized clock that clicks audibly as it advances through defrost cycles. One distinct click every 6–12 hours is normal. Continuous clicking or clicking that coincides with cooling problems indicates the timer has stuck and needs replacement. Modern refrigerators use an electronic adaptive defrost control that does not click.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1LOCATE THE SOUND: Stand next to the refrigerator and listen carefully. Clicking from the back-bottom (behind the kick plate or rear access panel) points to the compressor area — start relay or overload protector. Clicking from inside the freezer points to the evaporator fan or ice maker.
2. 2START RELAY SHAKE TEST: Unplug the refrigerator. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall and remove the rear access panel (usually 4–6 screws). Locate the compressor — the large black dome-shaped unit. The start relay is a small rectangular box plugged into the side. Twist and pull it off. Shake it near your ear. If you hear a rattle or feel loose pieces inside, the relay has failed and needs replacement. Also smell it — a burned smell confirms failure.
3. 3START RELAY MULTIMETER TEST: With the relay unplugged, set a multimeter to resistance (Ohms). Test between the two large terminals on the relay body. A functioning relay reads near 0 ohms (continuity). A failed relay reads OL (open). Replace if it reads OL or rattles.

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• Compressor Start Relay

  Small relay that plugs into the compressor side terminal. Shake to test — rattle means replace. Brand-specific: W10613606 (Whirlpool/Maytag), 5304491452 (Frigidaire), DA35-00101K (Samsung), WR55X10025 (GE).

  $10–$25

  Buy on Amazon →

• Overload Protector

  Thermal/current protection device mounted on the compressor. Often sold with the start relay as a kit. Replace if relay alone doesn't stop clicking.

  $10–$30

  Buy on Amazon →

• Condenser Fan Motor

  Cools the compressor and condenser coils. Replace if blade spins freely but motor doesn't run. Model-specific fit required.

  $30–$70

  Buy on Amazon →

• Evaporator Fan Motor

  Located inside the freezer behind the back panel. Replace if blade contacts ice or motor has seized. Common: WR60X10307 (GE), WPW10189703 (Whirlpool).

  $30–$80

  Buy on Amazon →

• Digital Multimeter

  Test start relay continuity, compressor winding resistance, and overload protector function. Essential diagnostic tool.

  $15–$30

  Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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