Plumbing & Water Heaters

Leaking Pipe Under the Sink: Diagnose and Fix It

A leak under the sink is one of the most common and manageable plumbing repairs a homeowner can do. Under-sink pipes fall into two categories: drain pipes (the P-trap and drain arm assembly, typically white PVC or black ABS plastic) and supply lines (the braided metal or plastic hoses that bring hot and cold water to the faucet). The vast majority of under-sink leaks come from one of three sources: a loose slip-joint nut on the P-trap, a cracked P-trap from overtightening, or a supply line fitting that has loosened or corroded. Identifying the exact source — which requires drying the cabinet completely and running water while watching closely — is the most important step. Once the source is known, most repairs take 20–45 minutes and cost under $20 in parts.

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Common Symptoms

  • Water pooling or wet spots in the cabinet under the kitchen or bathroom sink
  • Musty or mildew smell from under the sink cabinet
  • Cabinet floor is stained, swollen, or warped from repeated moisture exposure
  • Visible dripping from the P-trap, drain arm, or supply line connections
  • Water only appears under the sink when water is run (drain leak) or constantly (supply line leak)

Most Likely Causes

  1. 1

    Loose or Failed P-Trap Slip-Joint Connections (Most Common)

    The P-trap's slip-joint connections rely on friction and a rubber compression washer to seal — they do not use glue or solder. Over time, the rubber washer degrades, or the plastic slip nut loosens from vibration and temperature cycling. A loose slip joint drips at the joint itself every time water runs through the drain. This is the most common source of under-sink leaks and the easiest to fix — tighten the nut by hand plus a quarter turn with channel-lock pliers.

  2. 2

    Cracked or Misaligned P-Trap

    PVC P-traps can crack if they were overtightened during installation or a previous repair, if something heavy was placed against them in the cabinet, or if the drain arm and tailpiece are misaligned, putting side stress on the trap. A hairline crack in the P-trap body or in the slip nut itself allows water to seep out continuously during drain use. A cracked P-trap must be replaced — it cannot be reliably patched.

  3. 3

    Failed or Corroded Supply Line Fitting

    Supply lines (the braided stainless steel or ribbed plastic hoses connecting the shut-off valves to the faucet) have compression fittings at each end. Over 10–20 years, the rubber seals inside these fittings harden and crack, or the fitting itself corrodes. A supply line leak drips even when the faucet is off (because supply lines are always under pressure), whereas a drain leak only appears when water is running. Leaking supply lines should be replaced immediately — the braided hose itself can also fail catastrophically.

  4. 4

    Worn Strainer Basket or Drain Flange Gasket

    In kitchen sinks, the sink basket strainer (the chrome fitting that sits in the sink drain opening) has a rubber gasket between the strainer body and the underside of the sink basin. This gasket dries and cracks over years, allowing water to seep around the drain opening rather than through it. The leak drips from the strainer locknut area at the very top of the drain tailpiece, not from the P-trap. A failed strainer basket gasket requires replacing the strainer body and gasket, which takes 30–60 minutes.

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Quick DIY Checks

Caution

Turn off the hot and cold shutoff valves under the sink BEFORE replacing supply lines. The shutoff valves are on the supply lines where they enter the wall or floor. If your shutoff valves are stuck and won't close, shut off the main water supply to the house before proceeding — do not work on a supply line under full pressure.

Caution

Completely dry the cabinet floor and all pipes before trying to identify the leak source. A wet cabinet floor makes it impossible to determine which joint is leaking — a drip from the P-trap and a drip from a supply line look identical once water has pooled. Dry everything, then run water and watch in real time. This step alone prevents the most common under-sink repair mistake: fixing the wrong joint.

  1. 1Step 1 — dry the cabinet and isolate the source: this is the most critical step and is almost always skipped, leading to the wrong repair. Remove everything from under the sink. Dry the entire cabinet floor, the P-trap, the drain arm, and all supply lines completely with paper towels. Then run water in the sink for 30 seconds and watch carefully — look for drips forming at a specific joint, not just where water has pooled. For a supply line leak, turn off the faucet and check whether dripping continues — a supply line leak drips even with the faucet off. A drain leak stops immediately when you stop running water. Mark the exact location with a piece of tape before reaching in to fix anything.
  2. 2Step 2 — tighten or replace the P-trap slip-joint nuts: locate the two slip-joint connections on the P-trap — one where the trap connects to the drain tailpiece (vertical pipe from the sink) and one where it connects to the drain arm (horizontal pipe going into the wall). Hand-tighten each slip-joint nut clockwise, then snug it an additional quarter-turn with channel-lock pliers. Do not overtighten — plastic slip nuts crack if overtightened. Run the faucet for 30 seconds and recheck. If the dripping has stopped, the repair is complete. If the nut is already tight but still drips, the rubber compression washer inside the fitting has failed — replacement washers cost $1–$2, or replace the entire P-trap for $5–$12. If the P-trap body itself is cracked, replace the trap.
  3. 3Step 3 — replace a cracked or damaged P-trap: shut off the drain (no need to shut off the water supply for a drain-only repair). Place a bucket under the P-trap. Unscrew both slip-joint nuts counterclockwise by hand — they are usually hand-tight plus a quarter turn. Lower the P-trap into the bucket (it holds water as a sewer gas trap). Take the old P-trap to the hardware store to match the size — kitchen sinks typically use 1-1/2-inch traps and bathroom sinks use 1-1/4-inch traps. Slide the new slip nuts onto each pipe end, insert the P-trap, and hand-tighten both nuts. Snug with pliers — no more. Run water and check for leaks. This repair takes 10 minutes and costs $5–$15. For a complete parts kit see the [Kitchen Sink Drain Clogged](/fixes/kitchen-sink-drain-clogged) guide.

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Repair vs Replace

✓ Worth Repairing

Under-sink leaks are among the simplest and least expensive plumbing repairs in the home. A replacement P-trap, supply line, or set of slip-joint washers costs $5–$15 at any hardware store, and the repair takes 15–30 minutes of hands-on time. A plumber charges $150–$300 for the same work. The only scenario that warrants professional help is a stubborn shutoff valve that won't close — do not force a stuck valve, as it can snap off the supply stub-out.

Est. Repair Cost

$5–$40 (P-trap kit $8–$15, supply line $6–$15, slip-joint washers $2–$5)

Est. Replacement Cost

$150–$300 for a plumber to repair under-sink drain/supply leaks

Recommended Tools & Parts

  • Keeney 1-1/2 in. PVC P-Trap Kit with Slip Joints

    Complete P-trap replacement kit for kitchen sinks (1-1/2 inch) including the J-bend, extension tube, and both slip-joint nuts with compression washers. Fits standard drain tailpieces. Also available in 1-1/4 inch for bathroom sink use. Includes all replacement washers needed. PVC construction resists grease and corrosion.

    $8–$15

    Buy on Amazon →
  • Channellock 430 Slip-Joint Pliers 10-inch

    10-inch slip-joint pliers for tightening and removing P-trap slip-joint nuts and supply line connections. The angled jaw grips plastic slip nuts without cracking them. An essential under-sink plumbing tool — also useful for tightening supply line fittings and removing stuck drain strainer locknuts.

    $15–$22

    Buy on Amazon →
  • BrassCraft 12 in. Braided Stainless Steel Supply Line

    Braided stainless steel supply line with 3/8 in. compression × 1/2 in. female thread ends — the standard size for most residential faucets. Rated to 1,000 PSI burst pressure. 12-inch length fits most under-sink applications; also available in 9-inch, 16-inch, and 20-inch. Replace supply lines every 10–15 years before they fail.

    $6–$12

    Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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Related Repair Guides

This section combines editorial `relatedSlugs` from the article source with metadata-based matches so each guide links deeper into the repair library.

Frozen Pipe: How to Safely Thaw It Before It Bursts

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Sweating Pipes: Why Cold Water Pipes Drip and How to Stop It

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Galvanized Pipe Corrosion: Causes, Diagnosis, and Replacement Options

Rusty water, low pressure, or orange-stained fixtures? Your galvanized steel pipes are corroding from the inside out. Learn how to diagnose the extent of corrosion, flush mineral buildup, and determine whether section replacement or whole-house PEX repiping is the right move.

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Copper Pipe Pinhole Leak: Causes and Fixes

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Read guide →

Cracked PVC Pipe: How to Cut Out and Replace a Damaged Section

Cracked PVC pipe from freezing, impact, or UV degradation? The repair requires cutting out the damaged section and solvent-cementing in a replacement — a beginner-friendly fix that costs $15–$80 and takes 1–2 hours.

Read guide →

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Frequently Asked Questions

The P-trap drips even after I tightened the slip-joint nut — what next?
If tightening the slip-joint nut does not stop the drip, the rubber compression washer inside the fitting has hardened and cracked — it can no longer form a watertight seal regardless of how tight the nut is. Unscrew the nut, pull out the old washer (it sits inside the nut against the pipe), and replace it with a new slip-joint washer ($1–$2 at any hardware store). Match the size exactly — 1-1/4-inch or 1-1/2-inch depending on your drain pipe diameter. If the washer looks fine but the leak continues, inspect the P-trap body itself for a hairline crack — even a tiny crack will weep continuously. A cracked P-trap must be replaced entirely; they cost $5–$12.
Is the leak coming from the drain (P-trap) or the supply line? How do I tell?
The timing tells you: (1) if the dripping only occurs while water is running (i.e., stops when you turn off the faucet), it is a drain leak — the P-trap slip joints or drain arm connection are the source. (2) If the dripping is constant and continues even when the faucet is off, it is a supply line leak — the hot or cold supply line fitting or the shutoff valve is the source. Dry the entire cabinet floor first, then run the faucet while watching in real time. For a supply line leak, also check if the drip is on the hot side (left supply line) or cold side (right) — this helps narrow which fitting to replace.
The cabinet floor under my sink is soft and warped — do I need to replace it?
Yes — if the cabinet floor is soft, swollen, delaminating, or shows any black mold staining, it must be replaced. Saturated MDF or particleboard will not dry out and harden again — the wood fibers are permanently damaged and will continue to harbor mold. Remove the old floor panel (usually just resting on the cabinet bottom, not fastened), cut a replacement panel from 3/4-inch MDF or moisture-resistant cabinet-grade plywood to fit, and secure it with construction adhesive or small screws. Before installing the new panel, treat any visible mold on the cabinet walls with a bleach-water solution and allow to dry completely. A new panel costs $10–$30 at a home center.
My bathroom sink drain is leaking from where the drain meets the sink basin — is that the P-trap or something different?
A leak at the very top of the drain — between the drain flange and the underside of the sink basin — is a failed drain flange gasket, not a P-trap issue. The drain flange is the chrome or brass fitting pressed into the sink hole from above. Under the sink, a rubber gasket and locknut hold it in place. When the gasket fails, water seeps around the drain opening during use. To fix it: from below, use strap pliers or a large pair of pliers to unscrew the drain locknut (the large threaded ring against the bottom of the sink), remove the old gasket, and reinstall with a new rubber gasket ($3–$5). Apply a thin ring of plumber's putty under the drain flange if needed. This fix is separate from the P-trap — check the [Toilet Running](/fixes/toilet-running-constantly) guide if you are also experiencing related plumbing flow issues.