Oven Broiler Not Working: Electric & Gas Broiler Diagnosis

Common Symptoms

• Broiler produces no heat when set to Broil
• Broiler turns on briefly then shuts off before food cooks
• Gas broiler sparks but flame won't light or stays lit for only a few seconds
• Electric broil element does not glow red when set to Broil
• Bake function works normally but Broil does not
• Burning smell or visible scorch mark on the broil element
• Gas broiler only works when the oven door is cracked open (required on some models)

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   Burned or Failed Broil Element (Electric Ovens — Most Common)

   The broil element is the coil mounted at the top of the oven interior (in most models) or integrated into the oven ceiling (Bosch and some premium brands). It is the most common broiler failure on electric ovens. Broil elements fail by burning through at a single point — visible as a small hole, arc mark, or scorch spot in the coil. A failed element draws no current and produces no heat; the oven will show no heating in Broil mode. Testing: unplug the oven, disconnect the element wires, and measure resistance with a multimeter. A healthy broil element reads 10–50 ohms (varies by model). An open circuit (OL/infinite resistance) confirms failure.

2. 2

   Gas Broiler Has a Separate Igniter From the Bake Igniter

   On gas ranges with a separate broil burner (most common in the main oven compartment), the broil burner has its own igniter that is distinct from the bake burner igniter — they are different parts at different locations. If only the bake igniter is replaced when the broiler stops working, the broiler will remain non-functional. The broil igniter is typically mounted on or near the broil burner tube at the top of the oven cavity (or in a separate broiler drawer on older models). Diagnosing which igniter has failed requires observing which burner fails to light and testing each igniter independently.

3. 3

   Clogged Gas Broiler Burner Ports (Spider Webs — Very Common)

   Gas burner ports — the small holes along the burner tube that distribute the gas flame — can become clogged with spider webs, insect nests, dust, or food debris. Spiders are particularly attracted to gas burner tubes because the gas odorant (mercaptan) smells similar to certain insect pheromones, leading spiders to nest inside burner tubes during periods of non-use. Clogged ports cause incomplete combustion: the broiler may light briefly, produce a small uneven flame, then extinguish because the gas flow is interrupted. Port cleaning is done with a thin wire, a pipe cleaner, or compressed air after confirming the gas supply is off.

4. 4

   Control Board Broil Relay Failure (Electric Ovens)

   The control board sends 240V power to the broil element via a dedicated relay. When the broil relay fails (stuck open), the broil element receives no power even though the oven appears to be in Broil mode. A partial relay failure may cause intermittent broiling — the element heats briefly then shuts off. Distinguishing a relay failure from an element failure: if the element tests good with a multimeter (10–50 ohms, no open circuit) but still produces no heat in Broil mode, the relay or control board is the cause. Control board diagnosis typically requires a technician unless you have experience reading schematics.

5. 5

   Temperature Sensor Affecting Broil Cycle (Hi-Limit Thermostat Tripped)

   Some ovens use the oven temperature sensor (or a separate hi-limit thermostat) to regulate the broil cycle — if the sensor reads excessively high (due to sensor failure or an actual overheat event), the control board will shut off the broil element or gas valve as a safety measure. On electric ovens, if the broil element worked recently and suddenly stopped during a broiling session, check whether the oven temperature sensor resistance is within the normal range (1080–1100 ohms at room temp). An out-of-range sensor can cause false hi-limit shutoff in broil mode. Some ovens also have a separate thermal fuse or hi-limit cutout — a one-time safety device that must be replaced after tripping.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1SAFETY CHECK BEFORE STARTING: Unplug the range or turn off the circuit breaker for electric ovens. For gas ovens, turn off the gas supply valve (located behind or below the range, or at the main gas meter). Confirm power is off with a non-contact voltage tester before touching any element wiring. Let the oven cool completely.
2. 2ELECTRIC: VISUALLY INSPECT THE BROIL ELEMENT FIRST: Open the oven door and look at the broil element at the top of the oven interior. On most electric ovens it is a coiled element visible on the ceiling or upper back wall. On Bosch ovens, the broil element is integrated into the ceiling panel — there is no visible coil. Look for any of these signs of failure: - A small hole, pit, or crack in the coil (even a hairline break) - A black burn mark or arc/carbon scoring on any section of the coil - A section of the coil that appears melted, blistered, or discolored differently from the rest IMPORTANT: Carbon scoring (black arc marks on the coil or nearby oven interior) means the element arced electrically — replace it immediately. Do not use the oven until the element is replaced; an arcing element can damage the oven interior or cause a fire.
3. 3ELECTRIC: TEST BROIL ELEMENT CONTINUITY WITH MULTIMETER: With the oven unplugged, remove the 2–3 screws holding the broil element in place (typically accessible from inside the oven cavity). Gently pull the element forward to expose the wire connectors at the rear. Disconnect both wires from the element terminals. Set your multimeter to the resistance (ohms/Ω) setting. Touch one probe to each terminal. A healthy broil element reads 10–50 ohms. An open circuit (OL, 1, or infinite reading) confirms the element has failed and must be replaced. Note the element's wattage (stamped on the element body or found in your model's parts list) — replacement must match.

1. 4GAS: CHECK WHETHER THE BROILER REQUIRES THE DOOR AJAR: Many gas oven models — including most GE and some Frigidaire gas ranges — require the oven door to be left ajar (open about 3–4 inches, typically supported by a door-ajar detent) during broiling. This is a designed-in safety feature, not a defect: gas broilers require air circulation to prevent CO buildup and to allow proper combustion. If the door is closed during broiling, the oven's air intake restriction can cause the flame to go out. Check your owner's manual or model spec — if your model requires the door ajar and you have been closing it, this is the entire problem.
2. 5GAS: CLEAN THE BROIL BURNER PORTS: Turn off the gas supply and wait 30 minutes for any residual gas to dissipate. Locate the broil burner — on most gas ranges it is at the top of the main oven cavity (a long horizontal tube with small ports along it). To access: remove the oven racks, the top broil panel (if present), and any covers over the broil burner. Visually inspect the burner ports with a flashlight — look for any blocked holes, discolored ports, or webbing inside. Clean each port with a thin wire or pipe cleaner (do NOT use a toothpick — wood fragments can break off inside). Use compressed air to blow through the burner tube from the open end. Reassemble and test.
3. 6GAS: VERIFY THE BROIL IGNITER IS THE BROIL-SPECIFIC IGNITER: On gas ranges, the bake burner and broil burner each have their own igniter. To confirm which igniter is for the broiler: with the gas supply on and the oven set to Broil, watch to see which igniter glows (top of oven for broil, bottom for bake). If the broil igniter does not glow when Broil is selected, the broil igniter or its wiring has failed — not the bake igniter. Common part references: GE gas broil igniter WB13K21 (verify model), Samsung gas broil igniter varies by model. A failing broil igniter typically glows dull red and fails to draw sufficient current to open the gas safety valve.
4. 7ELECTRIC: CHECK THE BROIL RELAY ON THE CONTROL BOARD: If the broil element tests good (10–50 ohms, no open circuit) but still produces no heat in Broil mode, the broil relay on the control board has likely failed. The control board is typically located behind the oven's back panel (for freestanding ranges) or behind the control panel. With power off, inspect the relay area on the board for visible burn marks or swollen components. Part references: KitchenAid broil relay assembly WP9757860. In most cases, relay failure requires replacing the entire control board ($80–$250) or having a technician reflow/replace the specific relay.

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• Electric Oven Broil Element

  Replacement broil element for electric ranges. Mounts at the top of the oven cavity. Must match original wattage and connector style. Common parts: Samsung DG47-00017A (electric broil element — verify model), GE WB44T10011 (broil — verify), Whirlpool WPW10779716 (broil — verify). Always order by model number.

  $20–$55

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• Gas Oven Broil Igniter

  Replacement gas broil burner igniter. IMPORTANT: the broil igniter is a separate part from the bake igniter — verify which one you need. Must be matched to your oven model. A healthy broil igniter draws 3.2–3.6 amps. Common style: flat igniter (Whirlpool WP9782786 bake — use the broil-specific model variant). Search by brand + model + 'broil igniter'.

  $25–$70

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• KitchenAid / Whirlpool Broil Relay Assembly

  Replacement broil relay assembly for KitchenAid and Whirlpool ovens. Part number WP9757860 (verify with model number). Required when the broil element tests good but produces no heat — indicates the broil relay on the control board has failed. Installation requires removing the range back panel and disconnecting the relay from the control board.

  $30–$80

  Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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