Maytag Washer Making Noise — Causes and Fixes

Common Symptoms

• Deep rumbling or growling noise during spin that worsens over time
• Grinding or crunching sound when the pump runs at end of cycle
• Loud banging or clunking during high-speed spin
• Squeaking or squealing during agitation or tumble
• Rattling noise when the lid is pressed or at cycle start
• Vibration that travels through the floor during spin
• Squealing belt-like noise that fades after warm-up

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   Failed Main Tub Bearing WP34001054 — Most Common for Rumbling

   The main tub bearing supports the outer tub and spin basket shaft. As the bearing fails, its steel balls lose lubrication and the races corrode, creating a deep rumbling or growling that intensifies during spin. Grab the top of the drum and rock it side-to-side with the lid open — more than 1/8-inch of play confirms bearing wear. Once the bearing fails completely it can damage the tub seal and allow water to leak into the bearing race, accelerating failure.

2. 2

   Drain Pump Debris WPW10190961 — Grinding

   The drain pump impeller can grind against coins, buttons, underwire, or small items that pass through the door seal and enter the pump housing. The noise is a cyclical grinding or crunching heard during the drain phase. Remove the pump filter (front lower access panel on front-loaders, or tilt machine back on top-loaders) and check for trapped objects in the impeller chamber.

3. 3

   Worn Shock Absorbers WP62672 — Banging During Spin

   Front-load Maytag washers use shock absorbers (also called dampers) to cushion drum movement during spin. Worn or leaking shocks allow the drum to slam against the cabinet during high-speed spin — the classic banging sound. Inspect shocks through the lower access panel: each absorber should resist compression smoothly. A shock that collapses easily or shows oil leakage must be replaced. Always replace shocks in pairs.

4. 4

   Door Boot Seal Friction WP8182119 — Squeaking

   The door boot seal is a large rubber bellows that seals the drum opening. Over time the rubber can dry out, crack along its inner lip, or collect grit that causes a squeaking or rubbing noise as laundry passes by during tumble. Inspect the boot lip for cracks, stiffness, or foreign objects embedded in the rubber. A thin coat of silicone grease on the inner lip can eliminate friction squeaks; a cracked or torn boot needs replacement.

5. 5

   Worn Drive Belt WP8540929 — Squealing

   The drive belt wraps around the drum and motor pulley to transfer rotation. As the belt ages it glazes, cracks along its edges, or stretches, producing a high-pitched squealing or chirping noise — especially on startup or when the drum load is heavy. Remove the rear access panel and inspect the belt for glazing, fraying, or cracks. A belt that slips off the pulley under load needs immediate replacement.

6. 6

   Lid Lock Actuator Rattle WP62347

   The lid lock actuator engages a solenoid and mechanical latch at the start of each cycle. If the actuator mounting screws are loose, or if the actuator arm has worn pivot pins, it produces a buzzing rattle at cycle start and again when unlocking. Press firmly on the lock assembly while the noise occurs — if the rattle stops, the mounting or pivot is the cause.

7. 7

   Unbalanced Load

   A single heavy item or a tangled mass of clothing will cause the drum to oscillate wildly during spin, banging the cabinet on every revolution. Redistribute the load evenly, add a few extra items to balance single heavy items like towels or jeans, and restart the spin cycle. Modern Maytag machines run a load-sense balance routine before high-speed spin — if imbalance is detected repeatedly, inspect the suspension rods or shock absorbers.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1Identify the noise type and phase. Listen carefully: does the noise occur during agitation, tumble, drain, or spin? Rumbling/growling during spin → bearing. Grinding at drain → pump debris. Banging during high-speed spin → shock absorbers or unbalanced load. Squeaking during tumble → boot seal. Squealing on startup → drive belt. Rattling at cycle start → lid lock. Matching the noise to the phase eliminates most possibilities before you open the machine.
2. 2Check load balance first. Open the lid or door and redistribute clothing so weight is evenly spread around the drum. Never wash a single heavy item alone — add 2–3 similar-weight towels to balance it. Restart the spin cycle. If the banging stops, the machine is mechanically sound; adjust your loading habits. If noise persists with a balanced load, proceed to mechanical inspection.
3. 3Inspect the drain pump filter for debris. On front-load models, open the small access door at the lower front of the machine and unscrew the pump filter cap counterclockwise (have a towel ready — residual water will spill). Remove the filter and check the impeller chamber for coins, screws, buttons, or hair ties. Spin the impeller by hand — it should rotate freely with no grinding resistance. Clean all debris, reinstall the filter, and test a drain cycle.

1. 4Inspect the door boot seal WP8182119 for cracks or embedded debris. Pull back the front lip of the rubber bellows and inspect the inner surface for cuts, hardened rubber, or grit. Rotate the drum by hand and listen for squeaking. If the boot is intact but dry, apply a thin coat of silicone grease (not petroleum-based) to the inner drum lip. If the boot is cracked, torn, or has chunks missing, replace it — a damaged boot also allows water to leak onto the floor.
2. 5Test bearing play and inspect the drive belt. Grab the top of the wash drum firmly with both hands and push/pull in all directions. More than 1/8 inch of free play with a grinding sensation indicates bearing WP34001054 failure. Then remove the rear access panel and examine the drive belt WP8540929 on the drum and motor pulleys: check for glazing (shiny, hard surface), edge fraying, or cracks. A belt in poor condition squeals under load and should be replaced before it breaks mid-cycle.
3. 6Inspect shock absorbers WP62672. Access the lower machine interior through the front kick panel (front-loaders) or by tilting the machine back (top-loaders). Locate the two cylindrical shock absorbers connecting the outer tub to the cabinet base. Compress each one by hand — it should offer firm, controlled resistance throughout its range. A shock that collapses freely, feels spongy, or has visible oil streaks on its shaft is worn out. Replace both shocks at the same time (part WP62672); mismatched shocks cause uneven damping and continued banging.
4. 7Check and tighten the lid lock actuator WP62347. Locate the lid lock assembly at the front-top of the tub opening (top-loaders) or door frame (front-loaders). Tighten all visible mounting screws with a T20 Torx or Phillips screwdriver. Manually press the lock arm and verify it springs back crisply. If the pivot pins are visibly worn or the actuator body is cracked, replace the entire assembly. Disconnect power before removing the wiring connector from the lock assembly.

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• Main Tub Bearing

  Rear drum bearing supporting the spin basket shaft. Replace when side-to-side play exceeds 1/8 inch.

  $25–$50

  Buy on Amazon →

• Drain Pump

  Drain pump with impeller. Replace if impeller is cracked or pump motor is seized after clearing debris.

  $30–$60

  Buy on Amazon →

• Shock Absorber (pair)

  Front tub damper/shock absorber. Always replace in pairs to ensure even damping.

  $30–$60

  Buy on Amazon →

• Door Boot Seal

  Front-load door bellows/boot. Replace if cracked, torn, or excessively hardened.

  $30–$65

  Buy on Amazon →

• Drive Belt

  Ribbed drive belt connecting motor to drum. Replace if glazed, cracked, or frayed.

  $10–$25

  Buy on Amazon →

• Lid Lock Actuator

  Lid lock solenoid and latch assembly. Replace if pivot pins are worn or actuator body is cracked.

  $15–$35

  Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

Related Repairs