Maytag Oven Broiler Not Working — Element, Igniter & Control Fix
A Maytag oven where the bake function works but the broiler doesn't points to the broiler-specific components — not a general oven problem. The broiler circuit is separate from the bake circuit, which is why bake can work fine while broil fails completely. On electric Maytag ovens, the broil element WP74009359 sits at the top of the oven cavity and glows red when energized. A burned-out element shows a visible break in the coil, blistering, or a black scorch mark where the wire failed. Test with a multimeter: a healthy broil element reads 15–40 ohms; OL (open circuit) confirms the element is burned out. On gas Maytag ovens, the broiler uses a hot surface igniter to light the gas. The igniter must glow bright orange and reach sufficient temperature to open the gas valve — a weak or failed igniter is the most common gas broiler fault. The igniter glows but the burner never lights? The igniter is drawing insufficient current to open the valve and must be replaced. Beyond the heating component itself, the high-limit thermostat (often the same sensor WP74009778 used for temperature sensing) can open permanently as a safety response to overheating, cutting power to the broil circuit. The control board WP74009141 and the bake/broil selector switch are the final components in the circuit to check if element and thermostat both test good.
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Common Symptoms
- Broiler produces no heat
- Broil element doesn't glow red (electric)
- Gas broiler igniter glows but burner doesn't light
- Bake works but broil doesn't
- Broiler shuts off immediately after starting
Most Likely Causes
- 1
Burned-Out Broil Element (WP74009359 — Electric Models)
The broil element WP74009359 is a high-resistance coiled rod that generates radiant heat at the top of the oven cavity. Elements fail when the resistance wire inside develops a break — usually visible as a blister, crack, or scorch mark on the element surface. A failed element tests OL (open circuit) on a multimeter. Replacement requires removing 2 mounting screws from the back of the oven cavity and disconnecting the push-on terminals — a straightforward 20-minute repair.
- 2
Weak or Failed Broiler Igniter (Gas Models)
Gas Maytag oven broilers use a flat silicon carbide hot surface igniter to light the broiler burner. The igniter must glow bright orange and draw 3.2–3.6 amps to open the gas valve. A weak igniter glows but draws less current — the valve never opens and the burner never lights. Test current draw with a clamp meter in series with the igniter circuit; below 3.2A indicates a failing igniter. Visual inspection: an igniter that glows orange-yellow instead of bright white-orange is near failure.
- 3
Open High-Limit Thermostat / Temp Sensor (WP74009778)
The high-limit thermostat (integrated with the temperature sensor WP74009778 on many Maytag models) opens permanently if the oven reaches an unsafe temperature. When the thermostat trips, it cuts power to the broil and bake circuits as a safety measure. Unlike a cycling thermostat, a high-limit that has tripped cannot be reset — it must be replaced. Test by measuring resistance across the thermostat terminals: a healthy thermostat reads near 0 ohms (closed circuit); OL means it has tripped open.
- 4
Control Board Broil Relay Failure (WP74009141)
The electronic control board WP74009141 contains a relay that routes 240V power to the broil element. If the broil relay burns out or develops an open contact, the broil circuit receives no power even when the broil function is selected. This is typically confirmed by eliminating all other components first — if element, sensor, and wiring all test good but broil still doesn't work, the control board relay has failed. Inspect the board for burn marks around the relay contacts.
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Quick DIY Checks
Unplug the oven or shut off the 240V circuit breaker before testing or replacing the broil element, temperature sensor, or control board — 240V is lethal.
For gas models: if you smell gas at any point during diagnosis, stop immediately, ventilate the area, and call your gas utility. Do not attempt igniter replacement with gas supply on.
The broil element is at the top of the oven cavity — allow the oven to cool completely before reaching in to inspect or remove the element to avoid burns.
- 1Confirm bake vs. broil isolation — set oven to Bake 350°F and verify bottom element heats normally; if bake also fails, the issue is upstream (power, control board, or temperature sensor), not broiler-specific
- 2Inspect broil element WP74009359 visually — open oven, look at the upper element for visible breaks, blisters, burn marks, or holes in the element coil; any visible damage confirms the element is failed and must be replaced ($30–$60)
- 3Test broil element WP74009359 with multimeter — unplug oven, remove element mounting screws (2) from back wall, pull element forward, disconnect push-on terminals, measure resistance across element terminals; 15–40 ohms = good, OL = failed element
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- 4For gas models — select Broil and watch the igniter; it should glow bright orange within 30–60 seconds and then the burner should light; if igniter glows weakly or burner never lights, replace the broiler igniter ($35–$65)
- 5Test high-limit thermostat / temp sensor WP74009778 — unplug oven, locate sensor on back wall of oven cavity, disconnect connector, measure resistance; at room temperature should read 1050–1100 ohms; OL indicates sensor/thermostat has opened and needs replacement ($25–$45)
- 6Check bake/broil selector and wiring — unplug oven, inspect the wiring harness to the broil element for melted insulation or burned connectors; check that the broil selector switch toggles the circuit (test continuity across switch terminals with switch engaged vs. disengaged)
- 7Inspect control board WP74009141 — with oven unplugged, access control board and look for burn marks or melted plastic around the broil relay on the board; if other components test good and the board shows heat damage near the relay, replace the board ($120–$200)
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Repair vs Replace
A non-working broiler is almost always a single failed component — element, igniter, or thermostat. All are inexpensive DIY repairs. Only consider oven replacement if the control board fails on an older unit where the board cost approaches the oven's residual value.
Est. Repair Cost
$25–$200 DIY (broil element WP74009359 $30–$60, igniter $35–$65, sensor WP74009778 $25–$45, control board WP74009141 $120–$200)
Est. Replacement Cost
$900–$2,000 for a new Maytag range or wall oven
Recommended Tools & Parts
- Buy on Amazon →
Maytag Oven Broil Element (WP74009359)
Replacement upper broil element for Maytag electric ovens. Mounts to back wall of oven cavity with 2 screws. Replace when element is visibly burned, blistered, or tests open circuit on a multimeter.
$30–$60
- Buy on Amazon →
Maytag Oven Temperature Sensor / Thermostat (WP74009778)
Replacement temperature sensor and high-limit thermostat for Maytag ovens. Replace when F3 error code appears or when thermostat tests open circuit, cutting power to bake/broil circuits.
$25–$45
- Buy on Amazon →
Maytag Oven Control Board (WP74009141)
Electronic control board for Maytag ovens. Controls bake and broil relays, temperature regulation, and display. Replace when broil relay shows burn marks or broil circuit fails with all other components testing good.
$120–$200
Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.
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Frequently Asked Questions
- How do I replace the broil element on a Maytag oven?
- Unplug the oven or shut off the breaker. Open the oven door and look at the top of the cavity — you'll see two screws securing the broil element to the back wall. Remove those screws and gently pull the element forward until you can access the two push-on wire connectors at the rear. Disconnect the connectors (note which terminal is which), transfer them to the new element WP74009359, slide it back into position, and reinstall the mounting screws. The repair takes about 20 minutes.
- Why does my Maytag gas broiler igniter glow but not light?
- A glowing igniter that doesn't light the burner is the classic sign of a weak igniter drawing insufficient current. The gas valve requires 3.2–3.6 amps to open. An aging silicon carbide igniter increases in resistance over time, reducing current draw below the threshold needed to open the valve. The igniter appears to work (it glows) but can't generate enough heat to trip the gas valve. Replace the broiler igniter — this restores proper current draw and the burner will light normally.
- My Maytag broiler worked yesterday but stopped today — what happened?
- Sudden broiler failure (worked fine then completely stopped) typically indicates a burned-out broil element WP74009359 on electric models or a tripped high-limit thermostat WP74009778. Inspect the element for a visible break or scorch mark. If the element looks intact, the high-limit thermostat may have opened in response to an overheating event. Test resistance on both components with a multimeter — the failed one will read OL (open circuit) rather than the expected resistance value.