Frigidaire Dishwasher Error Codes — ER, LO, HO, i10, i20, i30, i50, i60 Guide

Common Symptoms

• ER displayed — cycle aborts, relay fault
• LO code — dishwasher won't fill or stops mid-cycle
• HO error — wash cycle runs but dishes not sanitized, water not heating
• PF code — cycle interrupted, power failure detected
• UO fault — vent open error, heated dry not working
• i10 error — water inlet fault, slow or no fill
• i20 error — drain fault, water remains in sump
• i30 code — overflow detected, safety float triggered
• i40 or iF0 — temperature sensor fault
• i50 error — wash motor fault, no spray pressure
• i60 error — heating element fault, water not reaching temperature

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   ER — Relay Stuck or Shorted

   ER indicates a stuck or shorted relay on the control board. The control board relay that operates the wash motor, drain pump, or heating element has failed in either the open or closed position. ER is a control board fault — it does not point to a motor or element failure, but rather to the board's ability to switch power to those components. Unplug the dishwasher for 10 minutes to reset the board. If ER returns on the next cycle, the control board requires replacement. Control board cost: $80–$150 depending on model.

2. 2

   LO — Low Water Level

   LO means the dishwasher failed to reach the required water fill level within the allotted time window. The control board monitors fill level via the water level pressure switch or sensor. Primary cause: a faulty water inlet valve that opens but allows insufficient flow. Secondary causes: low household water pressure (minimum 20 PSI required), a kinked fill hose, or a clogged inlet screen. The fill hose connects at the back of the dishwasher near the bottom — verify it is not kinked or pinched. Inlet valve solenoid resistance: 200–500Ω; OL = failed solenoid. Part 154637401 (~$30).

3. 3

   HO — Water Not Heating

   HO means the wash water did not reach the target temperature (typically 120°F for the main wash, 140–150°F for sanitize cycles) within the heating timeout. The heating element or its control circuit has failed. First check: run the dishwasher and feel the exterior door mid-cycle — a working element makes the door warm to the touch. Heating element resistance: 15–30Ω for a functional element; OL = failed. Part 154221001 (~$25). If the element tests good, the high-limit thermostat or the control board's heater relay circuit may have failed.

4. 4

   PF — Power Failure

   PF appears when the dishwasher detects that power was interrupted during a cycle. This is not a component failure — it is a memory fault code informing you that the previous cycle did not complete normally. Press Start or Cancel to clear PF and restart the cycle. If PF appears repeatedly without any actual power interruption, the control board power supply section (capacitors or voltage regulator) may be failing and producing brownouts internally. Persistent PF with no known power interruption warrants control board inspection.

5. 5

   UO — Vent Open / Vent Fault

   UO indicates the vent door is detected as open when it should be closed, or the vent actuator is stuck. Frigidaire dishwashers with heated dry use a vent assembly that opens to release steam at the end of the dry cycle. The vent position is monitored by a microswitch. If UO appears during the wash cycle (before the vent should open), the vent microswitch has failed in the open position or the vent flap is stuck. Vent assembly replacement (model-specific, ~$20–$40) resolves persistent UO codes.

6. 6

   i10 — Water Inlet Fault

   i10 is the numeric-display equivalent of LO: the dishwasher failed to fill to the required level within the allotted time. Diagnosis is identical to LO — check water supply pressure, inspect the fill hose for kinks, clean the inlet valve screen, and test the inlet valve solenoid (200–500Ω; OL = failed). The float switch in the sump (which detects overflow) can also trigger i10 if it is stuck in the raised position — clean the float assembly of debris.

7. 7

   i20 — Drain Fault

   i20 means the drain cycle did not complete within the timeout window — the most common Frigidaire dishwasher fault code in the field. The primary cause is a clogged drain filter/sump basket: food particles and grease accumulate in the filter assembly at the base of the tub until flow is blocked. Cleaning the filter resolves i20 in the majority of cases and costs nothing. If the filter is clean, check the drain hose for kinks and confirm the knockout plug was removed from a new garbage disposal. A failed drain pump (part 154844001, ~$45) is the hardware cause after all hose and filter checks pass.

8. 8

   i30 — Overflow / Flood Protection

   i30 means the overflow float in the base pan (under the tub) has been triggered. Water has leaked into the drip pan and raised the float, cutting power to the inlet valve as a flood protection measure. i30 is almost always caused by a seal or gasket leak — door gasket, wash arm seal, or pump housing seal — or by over-sudsing. Tilt the dishwasher forward to drain the base pan and identify the leak source before restarting. Do not ignore i30 — it indicates active water leakage that will damage the floor.

9. 9

   i40 / iF0 — NTC Temperature Sensor Fault

   i40 (or iF0 on some displays) indicates a fault with the NTC thermistor (temperature sensor) in the sump. The control board uses this sensor to monitor water temperature during the wash and heat cycles. If the sensor is open-circuit or shorted, the board cannot regulate the heating element and aborts the cycle. NTC thermistor resistance: approximately 10,000–12,000Ω (10–12kΩ) at room temperature (68°F/20°C). A reading outside this range (OL or near 0Ω) means the sensor has failed. NTC sensor cost: $15–$25 depending on model.

10. 10

    i50 — Wash Motor Fault

    i50 means the wash pump motor failed to reach operating speed or drew excessive current. The wash pump circulates water through the spray arms — if the motor is seized, has a failed start capacitor, or the impeller is jammed by a foreign object (glass shard, broken plastic), i50 is triggered. Check the sump area for debris with the spray arm removed. Test wash motor winding resistance: typically 3–6Ω; OL = open winding. A jammed impeller that frees up after debris removal may allow the motor to run again without replacement.

11. 11

    i60 — Heating Element Fault

    i60 is the numeric-display equivalent of HO: the heating element failed to bring water to the required temperature within the heating timeout. Diagnosis is identical to HO — test element resistance (15–30Ω functional; OL = failed) and inspect for visible cracks or burned spots on the element coil at the bottom of the tub. Part 154221001 (~$25). If the element tests good, the high-limit thermostat (mounted to the element bracket) may be open. High-limit thermostat test: should show continuity at room temperature.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1Identify your Frigidaire dishwasher platform: check the model label inside the door on the left wall of the tub. Models with FFCD, FDBC, FGID, FGHD, FPID, or FGCD prefixes are Electrolux-built and use the error code set in this guide. Frigidaire Gallery and Professional dishwashers are also on this platform. Error codes will appear as two-letter codes (ER, LO, HO) on full-display models or as 'i' codes (i10–i60) on models with numeric-only displays — both sets are covered here.
2. 2Perform a control board reset before any hardware diagnosis: unplug the dishwasher from the wall outlet (or flip the dedicated circuit breaker) for 10 full minutes, then restore power. Press the Start button to clear any stored fault code. A significant percentage of ER, PF, and transient i-code faults do not return after a proper power reset. Do not simply press Cancel — the full 10-minute unplug is required to discharge the board's capacitors.
3. 3Enter diagnostic mode to read stored fault history: close the door, then press and hold the Start button for 3 seconds. The dishwasher will enter a test cycle that illuminates all display segments and then cycles through stored fault codes. Write down all codes displayed before they clear. On some Gallery models, the diagnostic entry combination is holding the Hi-Temp Wash and Heat Dry buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds — consult your model's tech sheet if the Start hold does not work. The tech sheet is usually inside the door on the left side panel.

1. 4For LO or i10 (fill fault): confirm the water supply valve under the sink is fully open. Pull the dishwasher forward and trace the fill hose from the inlet valve (lower left of dishwasher) to the supply connection — look for kinks or tight bends. Disconnect the fill hose at the inlet valve and check the small mesh screen inside the valve port; clean it with a soft brush under running water. Reconnect the hose and run a fill cycle. If LO/i10 returns, test the inlet valve solenoid with a multimeter: set to Ω (resistance), probe the solenoid terminals — 200–500Ω is normal; OL means the solenoid has failed.
2. 5For HO or i60 (heating fault): open the door mid-cycle after 10–15 minutes and carefully touch the water — it should be hot (120°F+). If the water is cold, locate the heating element coil at the bottom of the tub (circular or U-shaped metal element). With the dishwasher unplugged, test the element with a multimeter set to Ω: disconnect one wire from the element terminal and probe across both terminals — 15–30Ω is normal; OL means the element is open and must be replaced. Also check the high-limit thermostat mounted near the element for continuity — it should read closed (continuity) at room temperature.
3. 6For i20 (drain fault): remove and clean the drain filter assembly at the base of the tub. Twist the cylindrical upper filter counter-clockwise and lift it out, then lift the flat lower mesh filter. Rinse both under running water, scrubbing with a soft brush to remove grease and food debris. Check the sump cavity for glass shards or debris that could jam the drain pump impeller. Reinstall the filters and run a Drain-only cycle. If i20 returns with clean filters, check the drain hose for kinks at the back of the unit and confirm the knockout plug was removed from any new garbage disposal.
4. 7For i30 (overflow): do NOT restart the dishwasher until you have drained the base pan. Tilt the dishwasher forward 45 degrees to allow water in the base pan to drain out the front. Inspect the door gasket (perimeter rubber seal) for tears, debris in the seal groove, or areas where the seal is not seated. Check the spray arm shaft seal and the pump housing seal visible from inside the sump. Replace any damaged gasket before restarting. i30 will continue to trigger until the overflow float in the base pan is dry and the leak source is repaired.
5. 8For i40/iF0 (NTC sensor fault): the NTC thermistor is mounted in the sump at the base of the tub, typically near the heating element bracket. With the dishwasher unplugged, disconnect the sensor wires and test resistance across the two sensor terminals: at room temperature (68°F/20°C), expect approximately 10,000–12,000Ω (10–12kΩ). A reading of OL (open circuit) or near 0Ω means the sensor has failed. Replace the NTC thermistor and clear the fault code. If the new sensor triggers i40 immediately, the wiring harness to the sensor is damaged or the control board has a faulty sensor input channel.

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• Frigidaire Dishwasher Heating Element (154221001)

  OEM heating element for Frigidaire and Electrolux-platform dishwashers. Fixes HO and i60 heating fault codes when element tests open-circuit (OL on multimeter). Circular element mounted at base of tub. Verify compatibility with your full model number before ordering.

  $20–$35

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• Frigidaire Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve (154637401)

  Replacement water inlet valve assembly for Frigidaire dishwashers. Fixes LO and i10 fill fault codes when inlet screen is clean and water pressure is adequate. Solenoid valve controls water entry into tub. Match to your model number.

  $25–$40

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• Frigidaire Dishwasher Drain Pump (154844001)

  OEM drain pump motor assembly for Frigidaire and Electrolux-platform dishwashers. Fixes i20 drain fault codes after filter cleaning and hose checks confirm the pump motor has failed. Includes pump motor and impeller housing.

  $40–$55

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• Frigidaire Dishwasher NTC Thermistor Sensor

  Replacement NTC temperature sensor (thermistor) for Frigidaire dishwashers. Fixes i40 and iF0 temperature sensor fault codes. Mounts in sump at base of tub. Verify model compatibility — sensor resistance spec: 10–12kΩ at 68°F.

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• Frigidaire Dishwasher Control Board

  Replacement main control board for Frigidaire dishwashers. Fixes persistent ER (relay fault) codes after component-level testing confirms the board's relay has failed. Model-specific — use your full model number to find the correct part.

  $75–$150

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Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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