Electrolux Dryer Error Codes — E64, E68, E61, EF1, EF2 Complete Repair Guide
Electrolux dryers display a distinct set of error codes — E6x for temperature and electrical faults, EFx for airflow and efficiency faults — that give you a precise starting point for repairs. E64 (heating element circuit open) and E61 (NTC thermistor fault) are the most common heat-related codes and resolve with straightforward component replacements. E68 (control board or relay fault) is more expensive but is often preceded by a power surge and sometimes clears with a hard reset. The EF1 and EF2 codes both point to airflow restriction and should be treated as safety warnings: a severely blocked vent is a fire hazard. This guide covers all major Electrolux dryer fault codes with diagnostic mode entry sequence, resistance specifications, and OEM part numbers for EFME627UTT, EFME617SIW, EFMG617SIW, EFME527UTT, and related models. For Frigidaire dryer error codes (same Electrolux platform) see /fixes/frigidaire-dryer-error-codes. For speed-related dryer faults see /fixes/dryer-not-heating. Upload a photo of your error display at /diagnose or ask a tech at /ask.
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Common Symptoms
- E64 displayed — Electrolux dryer runs but produces no heat (heating element circuit fault)
- E61 displayed — dryer overheats or under-heats and stops; NTC thermistor out of range
- E68 displayed — control board or heater relay fault; dryer may not start or stops unexpectedly
- EF1 displayed — dryer shuts off before load is dry; vent system restriction detected
- EF2 displayed — drying cycle takes longer than expected; marginal airflow fault
- Dryer tumbles but no heat; clothes still damp after full cycle
- Dryer shuts off mid-cycle with an error code on the display
- Burning or musty smell during operation — often associated with EF1/EF2 lint buildup
Most Likely Causes
- 1
E64 — Heating Element Circuit Open (240V Element Failure)
E64 indicates the electronic control board detected an open circuit in the heating element circuit — the element is not drawing current when commanded on. The heating element on Electrolux electric dryers is a 240V/5400W coil element (OEM part 134792700 or 5304518820 for most current models) that sits in a stainless steel housing behind the drum rear bulkhead. Elements fail when the coil wire burns through at a hot spot, typically near the connection terminals or at a coil sag point. Diagnosis: set your multimeter to resistance (Ω) and probe the element terminals with power disconnected — a healthy element reads 9–12 Ω across the two terminals. An open element reads OL (infinite resistance). Also inspect the element housing for visible burn marks or melted insulation. Replace the element if resistance is OL — do not attempt to repair a broken element coil.
- 2
E61 — NTC Thermistor Out of Range (Temperature Sensor Fault)
E61 indicates the main NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistor in the exhaust duct is reading a temperature value outside the expected range — either below the minimum (open/broken thermistor) or above the maximum (thermistor shorted or exhaust duct genuinely overheating). The exhaust thermistor on Electrolux dryers is a two-wire NTC sensor (OEM 134587700 or 5304518895) that reads approximately 10,000 Ω at room temperature (68°F/20°C) and approximately 3,000–4,000 Ω at normal drying temperature (130°F/55°C). Test: disconnect the thermistor connector and measure resistance — a room-temperature reading of OL (open) or under 500 Ω (shorted) confirms thermistor failure. Also confirm the thermistor mounting position in the exhaust duct is correct — a thermistor measuring ambient room air due to a loose mounting clip will read low temperature and trigger E61 during the heat cycle.
- 3
E68 — Control Board Relay Fault or Main PCB Failure
E68 on Electrolux dryers indicates a fault in the main control board's output relay for the heating circuit — the relay either failed closed (stuck ON, causing uncontrolled heating) or failed open (stuck OFF, causing no heat). The main control board (OEM 137070700 or 5304518887 depending on model year) contains surface-mount relays that can fail from voltage spikes, moisture exposure, or age. Before condemning the board: (1) perform a hard reset (unplug the dryer for 5 full minutes, not 30 seconds), as transient voltage events can trigger a false E68; (2) inspect the board for visibly burned components, cracked solder joints, or darkened relay bodies; (3) check the wire harness connections to the control board for corrosion or intermittent contact. If E68 returns after a hard reset, the control board must be replaced. E68 combined with an acrid burning smell from the control panel area suggests the relay has arced — replace the board immediately and do not operate the dryer.
- 4
EF1 — Vent Blockage (Restricted Airflow, Fire Hazard)
EF1 indicates the control board has detected an airflow restriction severe enough to trigger a safety shutdown — the drying chamber is not exhausting heat efficiently. Electrolux dryers measure airflow indirectly via drying cycle duration relative to moisture sensor readings: if the drum is still showing high moisture after a preset time, the board infers an airflow restriction. EF1 causes include: complete vent duct blockage with lint, a crushed or kinked flexible duct section, a vent cap that has closed or been blocked by bird nesting, or a broken blower wheel that has stopped exhausting hot air. EF1 is a fire-hazard code — lint-packed dryer vents are the leading cause of residential dryer fires. Do not continue operating the dryer after an EF1 code until the vent system has been fully inspected and cleared.
- 5
EF2 — Extended Drying Cycle (Marginal Airflow Restriction)
EF2 is a milder airflow warning than EF1 — it indicates that cycle times are running longer than expected for the load size and moisture sensor input, suggesting a partial vent restriction, an accumulation of lint in the duct that hasn't yet reached EF1 severity, or a blower wheel with lint buildup reducing its efficiency. Common EF2 causes: flexible transition duct that is partially crimped or not fully extended to its designed length, a vent cap with damaged flapper dampers that partially restrict airflow, lint accumulation inside the blower wheel housing, or an unusually long vent run (over 25 feet equivalent with bends) that has marginal static pressure capacity. EF2 should be treated as a maintenance reminder — clean the vent system annually to prevent progression to EF1.
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Quick DIY Checks
EF1 is a fire hazard code. Lint-packed dryer vents are the leading cause of residential dryer fires — approximately 15,000 fires per year in the US. Do not continue using the dryer after an EF1 code until the complete vent path from the dryer drum to the exterior vent cap has been inspected and professionally cleaned if necessary. If you smell burning lint during operation or see discoloration around the vent cap area, treat this as an active fire risk and call 911 if smoke is present.
Always disconnect the dryer from the 240V wall outlet before opening any access panels. Electrolux electric dryers operate on 240V power — both hot legs carry 120V to ground and 240V between them. A non-contact voltage tester confirms the outlet is de-energized. Do not rely on pressing the power button to make the dryer safe for internal work — the power button does not disconnect line voltage from the control board and terminal block.
When replacing the heating element or thermal cutout, also inspect the element housing for carbon tracking or arc marks on the ceramic insulators. An element that arced to the housing can leave conductive carbon deposits that will short a new element immediately. Clean carbon deposits with a stiff brush before installing the replacement element. If the housing interior shows significant arc damage, replace the housing assembly.
Electrolux dryers use a 240V/5400W heating element — replacement elements must match the voltage and wattage specification exactly. Installing a 240V/4800W element (Whirlpool spec) in an Electrolux dryer will cause incorrect thermistor readings, extended cycle times, and potential EF2 codes. Always cross-reference the part number to your specific model number before ordering.
- 1Step 1 — Enter Electrolux diagnostic mode to read all stored fault codes: Electrolux dryers (EFME/EFMG series) store fault codes that can be read in service mode before any disassembly. With the dryer off: (A) Press and hold the 'Start/Pause' button for 3 seconds — the display will enter diagnostics mode and show 'Err' or the most recent stored fault code. (B) On models without a dedicated service mode button sequence, press the button combination: 'Temp + Dryness' simultaneously, hold 3 seconds. (C) Once in service mode, pressing 'Start' cycles through all stored fault codes. Write down every code displayed — multiple codes often exist simultaneously (e.g., E64 + EF1 together indicate a heating element failure that occurred during a ventilation-restricted cycle). (D) To clear stored codes after completing repairs: hold 'Start/Pause' for 5–6 seconds until the display shows '- - -'. Clearing codes before repair is counterproductive — read them first.
- 2Step 2 — Check and clean the lint screen and full vent path (EF1/EF2): Before any electrical diagnosis, inspect the vent system — a clogged vent can cause secondary faults including E64 (heating element cycles off via thermal cutout due to overtemperature from poor airflow) and E61 (false thermistor overtemp reading from heat trapped in a blocked duct). Clean the lint screen completely (not just the top layer — push lint from inside using a vacuum crevice tool). Disconnect the flexible vent transition duct from the dryer rear and the wall duct collar and inspect its full length for lint blockage, kinks, or crushed sections. Use a dryer vent brush kit ($15–$25) to clean the full duct run from inside the dryer duct collar to the exterior vent cap. Confirm the exterior vent cap flapper opens freely when you blow through the duct. After cleaning, run a test cycle: if EF1/EF2 codes clear and drying performance improves, the vent was the sole issue.
- 3Step 3 — Test the heating element for E64 (resistance and visual inspection): Disconnect power to the dryer. Access the heating element housing: on most Electrolux front-load dryers, remove the rear access panel (6–8 screws) to expose the element housing mounted at the lower rear of the drum compartment. Disconnect both element terminals from the wiring harness. Set a multimeter to resistance (Ω). Probe the two element terminals: a healthy 240V/5400W Electrolux element should read 9–12 Ω. An open (burned-through) element reads OL. Also visually inspect the element coil inside the housing — a burned section often shows a visible gap, discoloration, or melted ceramic insulator. If resistance is OL or the coil is visibly broken, replace the element assembly (OEM 134792700 or equivalent; $40–$80). Also test the thermal cutout (high-limit thermostat) mounted on the element housing: disconnect it and probe both terminals — it should read 0 Ω (continuity) at room temperature. A thermal cutout that reads OL has blown and must be replaced simultaneously with the element.
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Try Pro — $7.99/mo- 4Step 4 — Test the NTC thermistor for E61 (resistance vs. temperature): With power disconnected, locate the exhaust duct NTC thermistor — on EFME/EFMG models it is mounted in the exhaust duct near the blower wheel housing, accessible from the rear of the dryer. Disconnect the two-pin thermistor connector. Set a multimeter to resistance (Ω) and probe the thermistor terminals. At room temperature (65–75°F), the Electrolux NTC thermistor should read 9,000–11,000 Ω (approximately 10 kΩ). A reading of OL indicates an open thermistor (replace). A reading of under 500 Ω indicates a shorted thermistor (replace). If the thermistor tests in-spec at room temperature, the fault may be intermittent (failing under heat) — replace as a precaution if E61 returns repeatedly. Replacement thermistors (OEM 134587700 or 5304518895) cost $15–$30 and replace in under 10 minutes. Always confirm the thermistor is fully seated in its mounting clip and positioned in the airstream — a loose thermistor reads ambient air temperature and will report falsely low temperatures, triggering E61 on the first heat cycle.
- 5Step 5 — Inspect the blower wheel for lint buildup (all airflow codes): The blower wheel draws air through the drum and exhaust duct — a lint-clogged blower wheel reduces airflow significantly even when the vent duct is clean. On Electrolux dryers, the blower wheel is accessed by removing the front lower kick panel and front bulkhead, or from the rear depending on model. The blower wheel is plastic (OEM 131724900 or similar) and should be free of lint buildup on all vanes. Inspect: reach into the blower wheel housing with a flashlight and check for matted lint packed between the wheel vanes. Use needle-nose pliers or a vacuum with a narrow nozzle to remove lint. Also confirm the blower wheel is firmly seated on the motor shaft — a loose wheel that slips generates airflow noise and reduced airflow without obvious visible damage. A cracked or missing wheel vane significantly reduces airflow capacity and warrants wheel replacement ($20–$45).
- 6Step 6 — Perform control board inspection and hard reset for E68: Before replacing the main control board for E68, exhaust all reset and inspection options first — a new Electrolux control board costs $100–$250. Hard reset: unplug the dryer from the 240V outlet for a full 5 minutes (not 30 seconds — the capacitors on the control board need time to fully discharge before a true memory reset occurs). Reconnect power and run a test heat cycle. If E68 does not return in the first 3–4 minutes of a heated cycle, the original fault was a transient voltage event. If E68 returns: pull the control panel and inspect the board visually. Look for: burned or discolored areas near the relay clusters, capacitors with domed or cracked tops, darkened solder joints near the output relays, and any evidence of moisture intrusion (green corrosion on traces). If any of these are visible, the board has failed and requires replacement. Also check the board wire harness connections — a loose connector to the heating element relay circuit can cause an intermittent open that triggers E68.
- 7Step 7 — Verify thermistor and thermal cutout continuity as a system (E61 + E64 together): When E61 and E64 are stored simultaneously, the dryer has likely experienced an overheat event caused by a vent blockage that blew the thermal cutout and also damaged the thermistor. Address in this order: (1) clean the vent system completely (Step 2); (2) replace the blown thermal cutout on the element housing (read OL on multimeter — $10–$20 replacement); (3) test the element resistance — if the element survived the overheat, resistance will be 9–12 Ω; if the element also burned open, replace it; (4) test the thermistor — overtemperature events can thermally degrade the thermistor's resistance curve even if it doesn't fully open; (5) after replacing all failed parts, run three complete drying cycles and read fault codes again. If E61 reappears after parts replacement with a clean vent, the control board's thermistor input circuit may have been damaged by the overheat event — this is uncommon but occurs on E68 boards after a sustained overheat.
- 8Step 8 — Test moisture sensor bars and confirm proper grounding (extended cycle faults): EF2 (extended cycle) can also be triggered by contaminated or failed moisture sensor bars — the two stainless steel bars inside the drum that detect laundry moisture content. If the moisture sensor reads 'dry' too early in the cycle (contaminated bars with fabric softener residue), the dryer shuts off prematurely and the user runs additional cycles — this pattern sometimes generates EF2 as extended cycle time accumulates. Clean the moisture sensor bars (located on the front drum bulkhead, usually near the lint screen) with a cotton ball dampened with isopropyl alcohol — remove waxy fabric softener deposits that insulate the bars. Also verify that the dryer is properly grounded to the outlet ground terminal — a floating ground creates erratic moisture sensor readings. On electric models, confirm the neutral (white) and ground (green) wires at the terminal block are not reversed (common wiring error that causes sensor circuit noise).
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Repair vs Replace
Electrolux dryers are well-engineered appliances with a typical lifespan of 12–15 years. The most common fault codes (E64 heating element, E61 thermistor, EF1/EF2 vent blockage) resolve with relatively inexpensive parts — element and thermistor replacements together cost under $120 DIY. Even the more expensive E68 control board ($100–$250) is worth replacing on a dryer that is under 10 years old in otherwise good condition. Reserve replacement consideration for machines over 12 years old or those requiring both a control board and a heating element simultaneously (combined parts cost exceeding $300).
Est. Repair Cost
$15–$80 DIY (thermistor $15–$30; thermal cutout $10–$20; heating element $40–$80; blower wheel $20–$45; control board $100–$250)
Est. Replacement Cost
$800–$1,500 for a new Electrolux EFME or EFMG dryer installed
Recommended Tools & Parts
- Buy on Amazon →
Electrolux Dryer Heating Element — 5400W 240V (OEM 134792700 / 5304518820)
OEM replacement heating element assembly for Electrolux EFME and EFMG electric dryers. 240V/5400W coil element in stainless housing. Resolves E64 fault code. Compatible with EFME627UTT, EFME617SIW, EFME527UTT, and related models. Includes element, housing, and ceramic insulators. Replace when multimeter reads OL across element terminals.
$40–$80
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Electrolux Dryer NTC Thermistor — Exhaust Duct Sensor (OEM 134587700 / 5304518895)
Replacement NTC thermistor for Electrolux dryer exhaust duct temperature sensing. Approximately 10 kΩ at room temperature (68°F). Resolves E61 fault code. Fits EFME627UTT, EFME617SIW, EFMG617SIW, and related Electrolux and Frigidaire dryer models. Two-wire connector, mounts in exhaust duct.
$15–$30
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Electrolux Dryer High-Limit Thermal Cutout Fuse (OEM 3204267 / 5304514714)
Replacement high-limit thermal cutout mounted on the heating element housing. Trips at approximately 260°F — protects the dryer from overtemperature damage. Resolves thermal cutout faults associated with E64 and vent blockage events. Always replace the thermal cutout when replacing the heating element — a cutout that blew once has degraded trip characteristics.
$10–$20
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Electrolux Dryer Main Control Board (OEM 137070700 / 5304518887)
Replacement main electronic control board for Electrolux EFME/EFMG dryers. Resolves E68 fault code when board inspection confirms burned relay or failed component. Verify your exact model number before ordering — control board part numbers vary by model year. Inspect the existing board for visually burned areas before ordering.
$100–$250
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Electrolux Dryer Blower Wheel (OEM 131724900)
Replacement plastic blower wheel for Electrolux dryer exhaust system. Resolves airflow-related EF1 and EF2 codes when wheel is cracked, has missing vanes, or is loose on the motor shaft. Also replaces when significant lint is permanently packed into wheel vanes that cannot be cleared by cleaning.
$20–$45
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Dryer Vent Cleaning Brush Kit — 25-Foot Flexible Rod Set
Flexible rod dryer vent brush kit for clearing lint blockages causing EF1 and EF2 codes. 4" brush diameter, 25-foot reach with multiple rod sections. Essential for clearing long or multi-bend vent runs. Use annually to prevent lint accumulation — the primary cause of EF1 codes and a leading cause of dryer fires.
$15–$30
Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.
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Frequently Asked Questions
- My Electrolux dryer shows E64 but the element checks out fine — what else should I test?
- If the heating element resistance tests correctly (9–12 Ω) but E64 persists, check these in order: (1) the high-limit thermal cutout mounted on the element housing — it should read 0 Ω (continuity) at room temperature; a blown cutout reads OL and interrupts the heating circuit, causing E64 even with a healthy element; (2) the two wiring harness connections to the element terminals — inspect the connector terminals for heat-induced oxidation or loose fit that creates an intermittent open; (3) the cycling thermostat (mounted on the blower housing) — test for continuity at room temperature; (4) the door switch, which on some Electrolux models interlocks with the heating circuit. If all components test correctly and E64 returns, the control board's heater relay circuit has failed and the board must be replaced.
- How do I know if my Electrolux dryer needs a vent cleaning versus a new heating element when it stops heating?
- Read the fault code first — EF1 or EF2 points to the vent, while E64 points to the element. If no code is stored, run a manual airflow test: disconnect the dryer vent hose from the wall and run the dryer on a heat cycle for 5 minutes. If heat is present at the dryer's exhaust port (in open air) but was absent when the vent was connected, the vent is the problem. If there is no heat at the open exhaust port, the heating element, thermal cutout, or thermistor has failed — proceed to electrical testing.
- Can I reset the E68 error code on my Electrolux dryer without replacing the control board?
- Yes, attempt a hard reset first before ordering a control board. Unplug the dryer from the 240V outlet (do not just press the power button — that leaves voltage on the board). Wait a full 5 minutes. Reconnect power. If E68 does not return in the first heating cycle and stays clear after 3–5 cycles, the fault was a transient electrical event (power surge, momentary voltage spike) rather than a physical board failure. If E68 returns within the first few minutes of a heat cycle after the reset, the control board's relay has physically failed and must be replaced. A board that fails repeatedly after reset is not resettable — parts cleaning and sprays will not fix a failed output relay.