Plumbing & Water Heaters

Bathtub Drain Clogged or Not Draining

A bathtub that will not drain is usually blocked by hair and soap scum at the stopper, in the first few inches of the drain, or in the trap below the tub. Start with the visible pop-up, lift-and-turn, toe-touch, or trip-lever stopper before snaking deeper. Most tubs use a P-trap under the floor, but some older homes have a drum trap behind an access panel; knowing which one you have changes where you snake and when to stop.

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Common Symptoms

  • Bathtub fills with water that does not drain during use
  • Bathtub takes 10+ minutes to drain completely after use
  • Water remains standing in the tub after exiting
  • Gurgling or bubbling sound from the bathtub drain
  • Faint sewage or musty smell coming from the tub drain
  • Visible hair accumulation around or under the drain stopper

Most Likely Causes

  1. 1

    Hair and Soap Scum on the Drain Stopper (Most Common)

    Bathtub drain stoppers — whether trip-lever, lift-and-turn, push-pull, or toe-touch designs — have surfaces on their underside that catch hair. The stopper sits in the drain opening and every bath deposits hair around its base and on its shaft or strainer crossbars. Soap scum binds the hair into a solid plug. Removing the stopper and clearing the attached hair resolves the majority of bathtub clogs without any further disassembly.

  2. 2

    Hair Clog in the Drain Body Below the Stopper

    Even after cleaning the stopper, a secondary hair accumulation often exists in the drain body 2–8 inches below the stopper seat. This section of the drain has a crossbar or basket that catches hair escaping the stopper. A Zip-It drain cleaning tool inserted after stopper removal reaches this zone and pulls the hair out effectively.

  3. 3

    Trip-Lever Linkage or Rocker Arm Jamming the Stopper Closed

    Trip-lever drain assemblies use a plunger or rocker arm linkage inside the overflow tube (the plate on the tub wall above the drain) that mechanically blocks the drain when hair or debris wraps around the linkage rod. In this case, the drain is not clogged — the mechanical stopper is stuck in the closed position. Adjusting or cleaning the trip-lever linkage through the overflow plate resolves this type of 'clog.'

  4. 4

    P-Trap Accumulation

    In bathtubs used very frequently or not maintained for years, hair and soap scum can accumulate past the drain body and into the P-trap. P-trap clogs in tubs are less common than stopper clogs but occur in older homes or after a long period of neglect. A drain snake is required to reach the P-trap in a bathtub — the trap is typically under the bathroom floor and not directly accessible through the drain opening without a long snake.

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Quick DIY Checks

Safety Warning

Do NOT use chemical drain cleaners (Drano, Liquid-Plumr) if there is standing water in the bathtub. The caustic sodium hydroxide in these products will splash back onto skin during plunging and can cause severe chemical burns. If chemical drain cleaner was already poured, flush with cold water until the tub drains completely before attempting any mechanical clearing.

Caution

When pulling the trip-lever linkage out of the overflow tube, note the position of the adjustment nut on the linkage rod — it controls stopper height and drain seal. If you reassemble it and the tub drains even when the lever is in the closed position (or refuses to drain in the open position), the linkage needs re-adjustment. Turn the adjustment nut clockwise to lower the plunger (closes drain more), counterclockwise to raise it (opens drain more).

  1. 1Step 1 — identify your stopper type: before removing anything, identify what type of drain stopper your tub has. (a) Lift-and-turn: has a small knob on top — turn counterclockwise while lifting to unscrew and remove. (b) Push-pull: a post with no visible screw — pull straight up firmly, then unscrew the center post from the base with pliers if needed. (c) Toe-touch: push down to toggle open/close — unscrew the whole cap counterclockwise. (d) Trip-lever: an overflow plate on the tub wall above the drain with a lever — the stopper is controlled by a plunger inside the overflow tube; skip to Step 4 for this type. (e) Simple strainer: no stopper, just a strainer over the drain — proceed to Step 2.
  2. 2Step 2 — remove the stopper and clean it: remove the stopper per its type (Step 1). Once removed, inspect the underside and base — you will almost always find a hair mat wound around the shaft and caked with soap scum. Grip the hair with paper towels and pull the entire mat off. Rinse the stopper under hot running water and scrub the underside with an old toothbrush. Inspect the drain opening where the stopper was seated — if you see more hair packed on the drain crossbars, proceed to Step 3.
  3. 3Step 3 — Zip-It tool and drain body cleaning: with the stopper removed, insert the Zip-It drain cleaning tool (or a hand-bent wire coat hanger with a small hook bent at the end) into the drain opening. Push it down 8–12 inches, rotate to engage any hair below the crossbars, and pull out. Repeat 3–4 times until no more hair comes out. Shine a flashlight into the drain body to verify it is clear. Flush with a kettle of hot water to dissolve soap scum on the pipe walls.

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Repair vs Replace

✓ Worth Repairing

Bathtub drain clogs are maintenance tasks, not repairs requiring pipe replacement. Stopper cleaning and drain body hair removal is free with a DIY Zip-It tool or coat hanger. If the stopper itself is corroded or broken, a replacement stopper costs $8–$20 at any hardware store. The only scenario justifying professional intervention is a confirmed P-trap or main line blockage after the drain body is confirmed clear.

Est. Repair Cost

$0–$25 (Zip-It tool $5–$8, replacement stopper $8–$20, hand snake if needed)

Est. Replacement Cost

$150–$400 for a plumber to snake a bathtub drain

Recommended Tools & Parts

  • Cobra Products 00412 Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool

    Flexible 18-inch plastic strip with backward-facing barbs for pulling hair from drain bodies. Fits into the drain opening after stopper removal. Reaches the drain crossbars and upper drain arm. Essential for bathtub drain maintenance.

    $5–$8

    Buy on Amazon →
  • Watco 48300-PP Universal Tub Drain Stopper

    Universal replacement bathtub drain stopper compatible with most standard 1.5-inch and 1.625-inch tub drains. Fits lift-and-turn, push-pull, and toe-touch drain openings. Replace if the existing stopper is corroded, cracked, or won't hold water for a bath.

    $12–$22

    Buy on Amazon →
  • RIDGID 57043 Hand Drain Snake — 15 ft

    Manual hand-crank cable auger for clogs deeper than the drain body — reaches bathtub P-traps that are 12–24 inches below the tub floor. Reusable stainless cable. Step up from the Zip-It when stopper cleaning and plunging haven't resolved the clog.

    $20–$30

    Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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Frequently Asked Questions

My bathtub won't hold water for a bath — the water drains even with the stopper closed. What's wrong?
A stopper that won't seal is a different problem from a clogged drain. For lift-and-turn and push-pull stoppers, the rubber gasket or O-ring on the stopper base has worn out — replace the stopper ($10–$20). For trip-lever drains, the linkage plunger is too high and isn't fully blocking the drain — pull out the linkage through the overflow plate and adjust the nut on the linkage rod (clockwise to lower the plunger, increasing drain seal pressure). Run a bath to test after each 1/4-turn adjustment.
I cleaned the stopper and used the Zip-It tool but the bathtub still barely drains — what's next?
If the drain body is visually clear (use a flashlight to confirm) but water still barely moves, the clog is in the P-trap or drain arm below the floor. Use a hand drain snake (15 feet minimum): insert it into the drain opening, feed it through the drain arm and into the P-trap curve, rotate when you feel resistance, then pull the clog out. If the snake passes through freely but the drain is still slow, multiple drains in your home are likely involved — that's a main line issue and requires a plumber with a professional drain snake.
How do I remove a bathtub stopper with no visible screws?
If you see no screws, it's either a toe-touch, push-pull, or lift-and-turn stopper. Try these in order: (1) Push the stopper down once — if it toggles open, it's a toe-touch. Unscrew the entire cap counterclockwise and lift out. (2) Pull the stopper straight up with your fingers — if it comes up without turning, it's a push-pull. Unscrew the center post (the post that the stopper cap screws onto) counterclockwise with pliers to fully remove for cleaning. (3) Grip the stopper, push it down slightly, then turn counterclockwise while lifting — if it rises as you turn, it's a lift-and-turn. Turn until it completely unscrews from the mounting post.
Should I snake a bathtub drain through the drain opening or the overflow plate?
Start through the drain opening after removing the stopper for shallow hair clogs. If the cable will not turn into the trap, remove the overflow plate and feed the snake through the overflow tube instead. The overflow path often gives a straighter route into the trap on trip-lever tub drains.
How do I know if my bathtub has a drum trap instead of a P-trap?
A P-trap is usually hidden under the floor and has no visible service cap. A drum trap is an older round metal canister with a threaded cap, often under a nearby floor access cover or behind a wall panel. Drum traps collect hair and soap sludge inside the canister and are cleaned by removing the cap, not by forcing a snake through the tub drain.