Amana Refrigerator Not Cooling: Complete Diagnosis Guide

Common Symptoms

• Refrigerator section is above 40°F even though compressor is running
• Both the fridge and freezer sections feel warm
• Freezer is cold but the refrigerator section is room temperature
• Food in the fridge spoils rapidly
• Ice cream is soft or melted even though freezer appears to be running
• Frost or ice buildup visible on the back wall inside the freezer
• Compressor runs continuously without achieving normal temperatures
• Clicking sound at startup followed by no cooling

Most Likely Causes

1. 1

   Dirty Condenser Coils (Most Common — and Free to Fix)

   Condenser coils dissipate heat from the refrigerant on the outside of the refrigeration loop. When they're coated in dust and pet hair, heat transfer efficiency drops dramatically, forcing the compressor to run longer and harder. On Amana bottom-freezer and side-by-side models (ART308FFDW, ART316TFDW), the condenser coils are located underneath the unit, accessible through the front kick plate. Clean them every 6–12 months. Neglected coils are the single most common cause of a gradually warming Amana refrigerator.

2. 2

   Failed Evaporator Fan Motor

   The evaporator fan motor circulates cold air from the freezer evaporator coils into the refrigerator compartment. When it fails, the freezer may remain cold (because it's directly adjacent to the coils) but the refrigerator section warms up because cold air stops circulating. On Amana refrigerators, the evaporator fan is located behind the rear panel inside the freezer compartment. Press the freezer door switch manually — you should hear the fan running. If you hear nothing, the motor has likely failed.

3. 3

   Failed Start Relay (Rattle Test)

   The compressor start relay is a small plastic component plugged into the side of the compressor at the back of the refrigerator. It provides the starting current surge the compressor needs to begin each cooling cycle. When it fails, the compressor either won't start or will click repeatedly as it attempts to start and immediately overloads. The quickest test: unplug the refrigerator, pull the start relay off the compressor (it pulls straight off), and shake it near your ear. A rattle sound = the internal element has broken loose = replace the relay. A dead-silent shake also sometimes indicates a failed relay.

4. 4

   Defrost System Failure (Ice-Blocked Evaporator Coils)

   Amana refrigerators run automatic defrost cycles to melt frost off the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater, defrost thermostat, or defrost timer fails, frost accumulates on the coils until they become completely blocked with ice. This blocks airflow and stops all cooling, even though the compressor and fan may still be running. The diagnostic sign is heavy frost visible on the freezer back panel — the evaporator coil area behind that panel is completely iced over. Manually defrosting (unplug for 24–48 hours with doors open) will temporarily restore cooling and confirm the defrost system is the problem.

5. 5

   Failed Thermistor (Temperature Sensor)

   The thermistor is a temperature-sensing resistor that tells the control board what temperature is inside the refrigerator. If it reads incorrectly — or fails completely — the control board may think the fridge is already at the set temperature and stop running the compressor or fan. On Amana refrigerators, thermistors are located in both the fresh food compartment and the freezer. Test with a multimeter set to resistance (20kΩ range). At room temperature (68°F / 20°C), a working Amana/Whirlpool thermistor reads approximately 16kΩ. At 32°F (0°C), resistance increases to approximately 32kΩ. OL or near-zero ohms indicates a failed thermistor.

Quick DIY Checks

1. 1Step 1 — Clean the condenser coils (start here — it's free): Unplug the refrigerator. Pull the unit away from the wall. Remove the front kick plate (snaps off on most Amana models). The condenser coils are a black grid underneath the refrigerator. Use a coil cleaning brush or vacuum with a brush attachment to remove all dust and pet hair from the coils and the condenser fan blades. Also clean the condenser fan blades at the rear of the unit. Plug in and allow 4–6 hours for temperatures to stabilize before evaluating.
2. 2Step 2 — Start relay rattle test: Unplug the refrigerator. Pull the unit away from the wall. The start relay is a small plastic cube plugged into the side of the compressor — it may have a wiring harness connected to it. Grasp the relay and pull it straight off the compressor terminals. Shake the relay near your ear. A rattling sound inside = internal component broken = replace the relay. Relays are model-specific but widely available for Amana, Whirlpool, and Maytag refrigerators. They cost $8–25 and take 5 minutes to replace.
3. 3Step 3 — Evaporator fan test: Open the freezer door. Manually press and hold the door switch (the small button inside the freezer door frame). With the door switch held in, the fan should continue running. If you hear no fan, release the switch and carefully remove the rear freezer panel (usually 4–6 screws). Check if the fan blade is blocked by ice — ice buildup around the fan indicates a defrost system failure. If the blade spins freely but doesn't run when powered, the motor has failed. Test the motor by disconnecting its wiring harness and applying 12V from a bench power supply, or proceed to replace based on the no-sound diagnosis.

1. 4Step 4 — Defrost system check: Remove the rear panel inside the freezer. Check the evaporator coils for heavy frost or ice encasement. If the coils are heavily iced, the defrost system has failed. Manually defrost by unplugging the refrigerator for 24–48 hours with both doors open (place towels on the floor). If cooling returns after the manual defrost, test the defrost heater: disconnect the heater leads and test continuity with a multimeter. A healthy defrost heater shows continuity (low resistance, typically 10–80 ohms depending on wattage). OL = failed heater, replace the defrost heater assembly.
2. 5Step 5 — Thermistor resistance test: Unplug the refrigerator. Locate the thermistor probe in the refrigerator compartment — it is typically clipped to an air duct or evaporator cover, connected by a two-wire harness. Disconnect the harness connector. Set the multimeter to resistance (20kΩ range). Measure across the two thermistor leads. At room temperature (68°F / 20°C), an Amana/Whirlpool thermistor should read approximately 16kΩ (acceptable range: 14kΩ–18kΩ). OL (infinite) or near-zero ohms = failed thermistor, replace it. Thermistors for Amana models are often interchangeable with Whirlpool and Maytag equivalents — verify by model number.
3. 6Step 6 — Compressor assessment: If all components above test good and the refrigerator still won't cool, press your ear to the back of the unit. A working compressor makes a low hum. Complete silence (after excluding a relay problem already checked in Step 2) may indicate a seized compressor or a failed main control board. A compressor that clicks on and immediately clicks back off every few minutes indicates the compressor is attempting to start, overheating, and tripping its thermal overload — a sign of a failing compressor. Compressor replacement requires EPA refrigerant certification and professional equipment — call a technician if you reach this step.

Repair vs Replace

Recommended Tools & Parts

• Start Relay

  Compressor start relay for Amana refrigerators. Shaking a rattle out of the relay confirms it's failed. Cross-compatible with many Whirlpool and Maytag models — verify with your model number. Costs almost nothing to replace.

  $8–$25

  Buy on Amazon →

• Evaporator Fan Motor

  Replacement evaporator fan motor for Amana refrigerators. Circulates cold air from the freezer into the fresh food compartment. Model-specific — match to your ART308FFDW, ABB1924BRM, or ART316TFDW model number.

  $25–$70

  Buy on Amazon →

• Defrost Heater Assembly

  Replacement defrost heater for Amana refrigerators. Resolves ice-blocked evaporator coils when the defrost heater tests open (OL) on a multimeter. Often cross-compatible with Whirlpool and Maytag models.

  $20–$55

  Buy on Amazon →

• Thermistor / Temperature Sensor

  NTC thermistor temperature sensor for Amana refrigerators. Tests at approximately 16kΩ at room temperature. Fixes cooling issues caused by incorrect temperature readings. Verify model number for exact fit.

  $15–$35

  Buy on Amazon →

• Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Brush

  Long-handled coil cleaning brush to remove dust and pet hair from the condenser coils under the refrigerator. Essential maintenance item — clean every 6–12 months.

  $10–$20

  Buy on Amazon →

Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.

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