Amana Dryer Error Codes: Complete Diagnosis & Fix Guide
Amana dryers share the Whirlpool control platform and display the same diagnostic error codes found on Whirlpool and Maytag dryers of the same generation. The most common codes — AF (airflow restricted) and F22 (outlet thermistor / thermal fuse circuit) — almost always trace to a clogged exhaust vent or a blown thermal fuse, both inexpensive DIY repairs. This guide decodes every common Amana dryer error code and walks you through the specific fix for each, starting with the free checks.
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Common Symptoms
- Error code displayed on control panel (AF, L2, F01, F22, F26, F28, F30, etc.)
- Dryer stops mid-cycle and displays a code with beeping
- Drum tumbles but heating stops and a code appears
- Dryer won't start and displays a fault code
- Clothes remain damp and a heat-related error is displayed
- Control panel locks up with an error and won't respond to button presses
Most Likely Causes
- 1
AF — Airflow Restricted (Most Common — and Free to Fix)
The AF code means the dryer's airflow sensor or outlet thermistor detected restricted exhaust air movement. The root cause is almost always a clogged lint exhaust duct. On Amana electric and gas dryers, exhaust restriction causes the dryer to overheat, triggering the AF fault before the thermal fuse blows. Clear the complete duct from the dryer exhaust port to the exterior cap. Also check that the flexible duct behind the dryer is not kinked or crushed, and that the exterior cap damper flap opens freely during operation.
- 2
F22 — Outlet Thermistor / Thermal Fuse Circuit Open
F22 indicates the control board detected an open circuit in the outlet thermistor or thermal fuse. On most Amana dryer models, the outlet thermistor and thermal fuse are located on the exhaust duct inside the cabinet — test each component for continuity. A blown thermal fuse (no continuity) is the most common trigger. Always clean the exhaust vent after replacing the thermal fuse or F22 will return immediately.
- 3
F30 — Restricted Airflow (Sensor-Triggered Variant)
F30 is a sensor-triggered airflow restriction code that appears on models with an electronic moisture sensing system. Unlike AF (which may appear mid-cycle), F30 often appears at the start of the cycle when the control board performs a pre-cycle airflow check. The fix is identical to AF: clear the exhaust duct, clean the lint filter, and verify the exterior cap opens freely.
- 4
L2 — Low Voltage / Leg 2 Missing (Electric Dryers)
L2 means the control board detected that one of the two 120V legs of the 240V supply is absent. Electric dryers require a full 240V circuit (two 120V legs). L2 appears when a circuit breaker has tripped on only one leg — common when a dryer circuit breaker trips halfway. Go to the electrical panel, turn the dryer breaker fully OFF, then back ON. If L2 returns, the breaker has failed and needs replacement by an electrician. Never operate a 240V dryer on a partially-failed circuit.
- 5
F01 — Main Control Board Communication Fault
F01 indicates an internal communication error on the main electronic control board. It can appear after a power surge or as the control board begins to fail. First, perform a hard reset: unplug the dryer for 5 full minutes, then restore power. If F01 returns within one cycle, the control board likely needs replacement. Amana/Whirlpool control boards for common models cost $50–$150 and are DIY-replaceable with basic tools.
- 6
F26 — Motor Relay Fault
F26 indicates the control board detected a problem with the motor relay — the component that switches power to the drive motor. It can signal a failing relay on the control board, a seized motor that draws excess current, or a wiring harness fault between the board and motor. Start by testing the motor wiring harness connections. If the harness is intact, attempt a drive motor resistance test: disconnect the motor leads and measure across the motor terminals — a healthy motor reads approximately 1–4 ohms. OL = failed motor windings.
- 7
F28 — Moisture Sensor Bar Open or Short
F28 indicates a problem with the moisture sensing bars inside the drum — the two small metal strips that detect residual moisture in clothes. The bars become coated with fabric softener residue over time, causing them to read incorrectly. Clean the moisture sensor bars with rubbing alcohol on a cotton ball. If F28 persists after cleaning, disconnect the sensor wiring harness and test continuity across the sensor leads to check for a wiring break.
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Quick DIY Checks
Always unplug the Amana dryer before removing panels or testing components. For gas models, also turn off the gas supply shutoff valve at the rear flex line before any internal work. If you smell gas at any point, leave the area immediately and call your gas utility.
The L2 code on electric dryers indicates a missing 240V leg. Do not attempt to diagnose or replace the circuit breaker yourself — this work requires a licensed electrician. Operating the dryer on partial voltage can damage the motor, control board, and wiring.
A restricted exhaust duct (AF/F30 codes) is a leading cause of dryer fires. Clear the complete duct and inspect it annually. Never operate an Amana dryer with the exhaust hose kinked, disconnected, or vented indoors.
- 1Step 1 — Hard reset (always start here): Unplug the Amana dryer from the wall outlet. Wait 5 full minutes. Reconnect power and attempt to restart a cycle. This clears many transient fault codes — especially F01 and F26 — that were triggered by a momentary power fluctuation. If the code returns within one cycle, proceed with the specific checks below.
- 2Step 2 — For AF or F30 (airflow): Unplug the dryer. Disconnect the flexible exhaust hose at the back of the unit and check for lint blockage at the dryer exhaust port. Use a flexible dryer vent brush kit to clean the full duct run from the dryer to the exterior wall cap. While cleaning, push the exterior cap damper flap from outside — it should open freely with light finger pressure. A damper that sticks closed or only partially opens will trigger AF. Also clean the lint screen housing: remove the lint screen and use a long vacuum attachment to remove lint from inside the housing slot.
- 3Step 3 — For F22 (thermistor / thermal fuse): Unplug the dryer. Remove the back panel (4–6 Phillips screws). Locate the thermal fuse and outlet thermistor on the exhaust duct housing — both are small components with two spade-terminal wires. Disconnect each component individually and test continuity with a multimeter set to continuity mode (audible beep). The thermal fuse must beep (continuity present). No beep = blown fuse — replace part 63196 or DC47-00018A depending on your Amana model. The outlet thermistor should show resistance (approximately 10kΩ at room temperature); OL = failed thermistor, replace it.
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Repair vs Replace
The most common Amana dryer error codes — AF/F30 (vent cleaning, free), F22 (thermal fuse, $10–15), and F28 (sensor cleaning, free) — are inexpensive or free to fix. More serious faults like F01 (control board, $50–$150) and F26 (motor, $50–$120) are still worth repairing if the dryer is under 10 years old. Amana shares the Whirlpool platform, so parts are widely available. Only consider replacing if the drum, motor, and control board have all failed on a unit over 12 years old.
Est. Repair Cost
$0 (vent cleaning/reset) — $10–$150 in parts depending on component
Est. Replacement Cost
$500–$1,000 for a new Amana dryer
Recommended Tools & Parts
- Buy on Amazon →
Thermal Fuse — Part 63196 / DC47-00018A
One-time safety thermal fuse for Amana dryers — the primary replacement for an F22 code. Verify part number with your model: older Amana models use 63196, newer Samsung-platform models use DC47-00018A.
$10–$18
- Buy on Amazon →
Outlet Thermistor
Exhaust outlet thermistor temperature sensor for Amana dryers. Resolves F22 when the thermal fuse tests good but the thermistor reads OL. Cross-compatible with many Whirlpool and Maytag models — verify with your model number.
$15–$30
- Buy on Amazon →
Main Control Board
Electronic main control board for Amana dryers. Resolves persistent F01 or F26 codes when harness connections are secure. Model-specific — order using your full Amana model number.
$50–$150
- Buy on Amazon →
Drive Motor
Replacement drive motor for Amana dryers. Resolves F26 motor relay faults when the motor windings test open (OL). Shares platform with Whirlpool and Maytag — confirm model compatibility.
$50–$120
- Buy on Amazon →
Dryer Vent Cleaning Brush Kit
Flexible rod brush kit for clearing lint from the full exhaust duct run. Essential for resolving AF and F30 airflow codes and preventing thermal fuse failure.
$12–$20
Links are Amazon affiliate links (tag: fixitfastai-20). Prices are estimates.
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Read guide →Keep Exploring
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Frequently Asked Questions
- What does AF mean on an Amana dryer?
- AF stands for Airflow Restricted. The dryer's sensors detected that exhaust air is not flowing freely through the vent duct. The fix is to clean the complete exhaust duct from the dryer to the exterior wall cap, ensure the exterior damper flap opens freely, and clean the lint screen housing inside the dryer. A clogged vent is a leading cause of dryer fires — address AF codes immediately.
- Are Amana dryer error codes the same as Whirlpool?
- Yes — Amana is owned by Whirlpool Corporation and shares the same dryer control platform. Error codes like AF, F22, F01, F26, F28, and F30 are identical across Amana and Whirlpool dryers of the same generation. Many parts are directly interchangeable.
- How do I reset an error code on my Amana dryer?
- Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet for 5 full minutes, then restore power and attempt a new cycle. This clears the stored fault from the control board. If the code reappears within one cycle, the underlying cause still needs to be repaired — a reset alone won't fix a clogged vent, blown fuse, or failing component.